Charalampos Andrianakis writes:
Two years ago i modified a scanner replacing its mechanism and all the internal electronics with UV lamps converting it to an UV exposure box for PCB prototyping. By the need of making my life easier and not waiting for the pcb to be exposured i designed an AVR timer to automatic switch off the lamps after 1 minute of exposure which was much enough for the PCBs. Here is the circuit
This was one of my first completed projects from design to production. As you can see the scheme isn’t that good and there have been by passed some capacitors at the power supply. But the circuit works with no problem.
AVR Switch Timer - [Link]
Goal is to replace this Ikea super cheap timer that works … well, as good as something manual that you paied less than 200 JPY (less than 2 euro). Not precise, sometimes doesn’t ring, or ring just the blink of an eye, so easy to miss…
The new timer will:
- Have a graphical LCD (bought one one year ago, never used it, needed a pretext, so…)
- Work on battery (1x 9v battery)
- Play music when it’s time
- Use a speaker and amp
- Possibly use a YMZ294 ?
- In fact something else but much better…
- Have an on/off system with a push-button, not a open/close switch In fact a tilt switch
- No arduino, but a simple atmega 328 (more than sufficient)
- Keep me busy a few days while allowing me to use some parts I bought long time ago and create a un-reasonable and out of price kitchen timer
Arduino KitchenTimer - [Link]
ISS tracking theme clock face – Monochron Clock Kit. SPACECHRON, Scott writes – [via]
Some of my christmas money went towards purchasing a Monochron Clock kit from Adafruit.com.
It turned out to be an awesome build and I had lots of fun putting it together. I also chose it because it allows you to program your own clock “faces” for it. I’ve programmed a Space themed face for it that simulates the space station ground track. I’ve also programmed an autodim feature for the backlight because my preferred daylight brightness was too bright at night. The fact that I can customize it to fit my needs is an awesome thing. I wish there were more products like it.
ISS tracking theme clock face – Monochron Clock Kit - [Link]
What’s inside the FE-5680A Rubidium frequency standard? Available on ebay for about $50 or so.
FE-5680A Rubidium Standard Teardown - [Link]
Receiving the DCF77 signal from Frankfurt. Distance between Frankfurt and Thessaloniki approx. 1500 km
Receiver datasheet : http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/rftime/SYM-RFT-XX.pdf
More info : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DCF77
Receiving the DCF77 signal in Thessaloniki, Greece - [Link]
Ishan Karve writes:
I generally tend to spend a lot of time working on my PC, not realising what the time it is. A bit of ponder made me realise that I did not have a clock in my room (Thats the Xcuse!!).. Clock in the deskbar/panel/Taskbar is so Uncool.. So I decided to make a custom made digital clock.
An immediate rummaging of my component inventory revealed that I had the necessary gear to accomplish the task..
Large Digit LCD Clock - [Link]
adafruit.com writes: [via]
Dan has taken an Ice Tube Clock, added a Roving Networks WiFly (RN-134) module, and wrote some firmware to add some more features to the clock. He has added time synch, weather data display, and even a Twitter display. He currently has it setup to alternate between the time, the weather and a Twitter message.
Wifi Ice Tube Clock – [Link]
I thought it would be fun to build an alarm clock that looks just like the type of bomb that we always see in Hollywood movies. I certainly don’t know anything about how a real bomb might look, but in the movies they always have sticks of dynamite strapped together, a red digital readout, and a bunch of curly wires. Instead of just building an ordinary clock, I thought it should have a detonation sequence with a scary countdown just like in the movies. And why not make it “defusable” so I can try to stop the countdown by cutting the correct wire?
Defusable Alarm Clock is Dy-No-Mite - [Link]
- No power supply needed: The circuit “steals” in the operating current (only 10µA at 5V and 2.5µA at 3.3V) from the signal lines of the camera
- Interval adjustable from 0.4 seconds to about 18 minutes
- No controls, setting of the intervall via “teach-in” from the camera
- Ultra-portable: the circuitry fits into the housing of a 2.5mm stereo plug
- Component cost: 87 ct (July 2010)
Intervall Timer for Nikon and Canon DSLR - [Link]
In Los Angeles, we have the “Time-of-Use Program” option from the power company. From their FAQ:
The prices are based on the time of day when the electricity is actually used, unlike the standard rate when the price for electricity is always the same.
A higher price is charged during “high peak” hours, which are between 1:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m., Monday through Friday. The price for electricity during these hours is about twice the cost of the standard rate price.
Surrounding these “high peak” hours, are the “low peak” hours. “Low peak” hours are from 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. and again from 5:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m., Monday through Friday. The price for electricity during these hours is slightly higher than the price charged on the standard rate.
During all of the remaining hours, Monday through Friday, and all weekend long, the price for the electricity you use is about one-half of the price for electricity on the standard rate. These hours are called “base” hours.
I was lucky in that my house came with a mechanical timer (as part of some Frankenstein solar system). It was easy to set it to turn off the hot water heater from 1 to 5pm. Don’t forget about daylight saving time, oh how I hate daylight saving time.
This worked fine except for the most weekends we would forget to reach into the box and turn on the hot water before during laundry or grabbing that all important weekend noon shower. Even the ridiculous note didn’t help.
Smarter Water Heater Timer – [Link]