The idea is to use this as a simple “lighthouse” that when powered up will rotate the beam around the 12 LEDs.
The project is written for the PIC12f683 using SourceBoost Technologies BoostC that I use as a tool suite in Microchip’s MPLAB. BoostC is fairly ANSI so if you’re using another C then it wouldn’t be hard to convert. There’s a free version of BoostC too and I think my program will fit within it’s limits.
Building large complex boards is very risky. If anything is wrong with the board, the entire board needs to be discarded sometimes after expensive components have been soldered onto them. Instead of have one big board, the display is split into module boards. These modules are the LEDPANEL( front panel with the lights and buttons ), LEDDRIVER( hardware to switch on and off the rows and columns ), and the PROCESSORBOARD( the board that contains the RF circuitry and microcontroller ). If something goes wrong with one of the boards, only that board needs to be redesigned or replaced. A secondary bonus is that the processor board can be redesigned for a different PC connection. An example would be a module with a USB connection to a PC rather then an RF link for cost savings.
A Scrolling Display with RF connection to a PC - [Link]
Sure-Electronics sells a nice Luxeon led driver board capable of delivering 700mA to up to 5 luxeon leds in series. The board is priced at 9.99 USD. Check this out.
Preset Current: 700mA, it may vary from 690-710mA.
Current Ripple: 14mA RMS, 76mA p-p.
Maximum Input Voltage: 25V DC.
Suggested Input Voltage: 6-24V DC.
Efficiency: 78% @ 14V input, 3*3W Luxeon LEDs in serial connection.
3W Luxeon LED Driver – [Link]
Want 600lm of true light power form a single led (actually a led cluster)? Check out this powerfull led found on ebay. It’s priced for 25.99 USD and free international shipping.
- Lens Color : Water Clear
- Emitted Color : white
- Intensity Typ. : 600Lm
- Viewing Angle : 160°
- Forward Voltage : 12V
- Forward Current : 1000mA
10W White LED – 600lm - [Link]
If you have anything to do with DIY electronics, circuit bending, or just messing around with microcontrollers, you will undoubtedly amass quite a collection of LEDs. A great majority of these will be clear, and will only show a color after applying a voltage to them. Also, if you order a batch, some of them will not work, and the only way to find out is to test them. So I’d been wanting to build an LED tester for a while. It seems like every time I wanted to make a project involving LEDs, and when first powering up my circuit, of course the LEDs don’t light up. You know that it is probably in the wiring or programming, but you’re not quite sure if maybe the LED is bad. Now you won’t have to wonder anymore. And of course, I made it out of something fun…
Lemon Led tester – “Juice your leds” - [Link]
Perry sent us a link to his latest project, the “AcceLED Pong”. The game runs on an Atmel ATMEGA32 AVR Micro-controller. The AVR read an Analog Devices ADXL203 2-Axis Accelerometer, which controls the movement of the paddle. You can download the source code on his website. [Thanks Perry] [via]
AcceLED Pong is a simple project I whipped up while playing with a 2-axis accelerometer from Analog Devices. The ADXL203 is hooked up to an Atmel ATMEGA32 chip that processes the data and controls a red/green LED matrix from Sparkfun.
The game is controlled by tilting the board left and right to move the paddle. The computer is a bit braindead–I didn’t want the AI so good that I couldn’t beat it.
AcceLED Pong: Accelerometer Controlled Pong - [Link]
As you can see, the candle is run from a PIC12F675. This is an 8 pin microcontroller with 5 I/O lines. I decided to run the candle from 4 AA batteries, giving me a 6 volt power supply. The battery holder provided a nice base to help the candle remain upright. Because the PIC requires 5 volts, I added a 1N4148 diode that has a 1 volt voltage drop, thus providing me with 5 volts. I used five 15,000mcd LEDs (very bright) to give me a bright flame. This makes the candle much brighter than my storebought candle. I also used 5 LEDs as it gives a much more realistic flame, looking more “flickery.”
LED Candle - [Link]
Often times when people get started in electronics, they want to blink LEDs. This is this a great idea, and we really like blinking LEDs, so we’re happy to help. In the last year or two there’s also a growing chorus of people that want to drive high powered LEDs. That’s not always as easy, but it can be done.
Easy high-power LED blinking circuit- [Link]
This project uses RGB LEDs to create a clock face. Each hand is assigned a colour and as the hands overlap on the face of the clock it mixes the colours.
The clock uses a single AA battery to power the display which is boosted to 5 volts with a switching mode power supply. The power supply should be able to use any AA battery that is at 0.7 volts or higher, which means that it should still work fine with AA batteries that may be “dead” when used in other devices.
The heart of the clock is a DS1307 realtime clock with a CR2032 coin cell battery backup. The battery should be sufficient to keep the time for at least a couple of years.
LED Desktop Clock - [Link]
Lately I was playing with my dual color LED matrix from Sparkfun. It is a matrix of 8 by 8 dual color (red and green) LEDs that measures 5 cm by 5 cm. I just had some sprites flickering across the matrix as the magnifying glass of my “third hand” came in the way. I realized, that, if in the right distance, it will project the sprites on the ceiling. Although the projection is not very bright, it works, if the room is dark enough. Disco, here I come.
LED matrix projector – [Link]