With the help of the most powerful X-ray laser in the world researchers of the SLAC National Accelerator Laboratory of the U.S. Department of Energy have heated a piece of aluminum to a temperature of two million degrees Celsius (3.6 million degrees Fahrenheit). They also managed to verify the temperature achieved. This work could be an important step to a better understanding of nuclear fusion processes that go on in the cores of stars and giant planets like Jupiter. [via]
3,600,000 F – The Hottest Thing on Earth – [Link]
PowerXR Programmable Power Solutions
A range of serial (I2C) programmable step-down regulators for complex systems with multiple supply voltages.
- 3 or 4 completely independent PWM channels.
- One 3.3/5 V selectable linear LDO regulator.
- Programmable output voltage from 0.9 to 5.1 V.
- Programmable switch frequencies from 0.3 to 1.5 MHz.
- Up to 6 configurable GPIO pins.
- PowerArchitect™ » Free development software.
PowerXR – Programmable switching regulator – [Link]
We create an application based on Arduino, that allows you to control brightness and color of a RGB strip LED via local network or Internet through a WiFi or Ethernet shield. The system that we propose is based on the Arduino UNO, on which are mounted two shield: the Ethernet or WIFI Shield, which provides the connection to LAN, and the RGB shield which mounts three power drivers to control the LED strip.
Arduino WiFi RGB Lamp – [Link]
I found a small project at another site about fading an LED in and out smoothly, without a microcontroller. I changed it a bit. In my version I removed one of the transistors and changed some resistor values. This is supposed to result in lower costs and smaller footprint. I know it’s a very small difference, but still.
LED Fade in / Fade out – [Link]
The geek inside me has always wanted a fridge that shows the inside temperature for both the freezer and the fridge compartments. However, when we recently replaced our very old fridge we ended up getting a new one without the built in thermometer. So I decided that one of my next projects would have to rectify this problem.
Dual PIC Thermometer – [Link]
I’ve been meaning to make something cool for my dorm room this coming semester and decided that some custom closet lights would look great. In this Instructable, I’ll show you how to make some nice-looking LED lights that will turn on automatically using a hall effect sensor and a magnet.
Edit: I’ve noticed a lot of people are hating on the excessive control used in this project so I just wanted to clarify a few things:
- This instructable was also meant to be a lite introduction to actual AVR programming for those people who are used to only Arduino programming. I had a bit of trouble finding useful information when I was learning so I figured it would be nice to help out some others. That is why I posted the basic tutorials along with my AVR code.
- Yes I’m aware I could have simply used a reed switch to switch the LEDs when the door opened and closed. I wanted to leave room open for myself to add different light modes, maybe using more wires and pins to create nice fading effects, possibly a remote control sensor, and maybe even an auto-shutoff routine.
Door Activated LED Lighting using Hall Effect Sensors – [Link]
This is a project for a Russian IN-13 bargraph Nixie tube to use it as an indoor room thermometer. It is named “NixieTherm” and is also available as a fully complete kit incl. enclosure as shown at www.Nixiekits.eu
The IN-13 is a special construct of a gas discharge Neon display and works similar to the well know Neon bulb in illuminated mains power switches or as Nixie tubes. But this bargraph has a current depending length of the glow. As all other cold discharge tubes also the IN-13 needs a “little bit more” high voltage to work; at least 120VDC. The current through the tube must be limited, normally with a resistor. In the NixieTherm this is done with a high voltage transistor, as we need a variable current from 0….4.5mA.
Analog IN-13 bargraph Nixie tube thermometer – [Link]
Forget the fuel. Our stoves cook your meals with nothing but the twigs you collect on your journey, eliminating the need for heavy, expensive, polluting petroleum gas. It’s quick to light, fast to boil and clean to use.
Charge your gadgets. By converting heat from the fire into usable electricity, our stoves will recharge your phones, lights and other gadgets while you cook dinner.
Have fun. Like a campfire, you can sit around the CampStove and watch the flames dance as you roast marshmallows and tell stories with friends.
- Powers all USB-chargeable devices including smartphones, LED lights, GPS and many others.
- Fast to boil.
- Lights quickly and easily.
- Burns sticks, pine cones, pellets and other biomass.
- Folds for easy packing.
- Packed size: 8.25 x 5″.
- Weight: 2 Lbs 1 oz / 935 gram
BioLite CampStove – Charge your gadgets in fire – [Link]
Sergei Bezrukov writes:
This is a shortened translation from Russian of my article published in Радио (Radio) magazine, no. 8 (2010) pp. 21-23. The voltmeter is designed for controlling DC voltages at the output of a dual bipolar power supply. It not a universal instrument, since its input resistance does not exceed 40K, which might be too low for some measurements. However, it is perfectly fine for power supplies and does not noticeably load their output. The range of input voltages is 0 to 24V for positive supply and -24V to 0 for negative one.
The voltages are sampled every 300 msec and displayed on a 9-digit LED display. Only 8 digits are used, the middle digit slot is always off and serves a a separator between negative (on the left part of display) and positive (on the right one) readings. The unit provides a 0.01V resolution. For small negative voltages (not exceeding 10V in absolute value) a leading minus sign is displayed. For positive voltages a leading zero is suppressed.
Voltmeter for bipolar power supplies – [Link]
Sergei Bezrukov writes:
It is not a rare phenomenon that some USB devices attached to a computer during power-up remain invisible to the OS after booting. This concerns home-made devices during experiments and also some commercial ones. To make them visible again one has to disconnect the USB plug and reconnect it again. This leads to excessive contact wear of the USB connector. It would be nice to have a way to reconnect the device without mechanically unplugging it. A trivial solution based on buttons/switches or relays won’t work because of their contact bouncing, which might confuse as device as well as the OS.
USB switch – [Link]