I will start from saying that the board could be replaced by any Arduino plus some(s) its motor driver shield(s). So why I made it you may ask? Well, while I made this tiny tank-robot model presented on below pictures, I wanted to make at least some things by myself, and decide what I need and how I need it instead of only buying prefabricated stuff.
Simple and extensible microprocessor driver for robots – [Link]
by silentbogo @ instructables.com:
If you previously worked(or currently working) with small 8-bit microcontrollers, like ATTiny or PIC12, you’ve probably encountered a fundamental problem of not having enough GPIO pins for your needs or project requirements.
Upgrading to a larger MCU is only one of the options, but as usual there is an alternative. In this article I will explain how to use shift registers in some common situations in order to expand the I/O capacity of your microcontroller. As an example I will use an ATTiny13A and a 74HC595 shift register.
Getting more I/O pins on ATTiny with Shift Registers – [Link]
This is reflow soldering controller for use with a toaster oven as reflow soldering oven.
I bought the toaster oven in a local super market for about 40 €. There was also a cheaper oven on sale, but I wasn’t sure if it did 250°C, so I bought the more expensive and prettier one.
Since I don’t want to loose the warranty and also haven’t any interest of the oven’s internals, I designed the reflow controller as an oven-external device which directly switches the oven’s mains on/off.
The relay I use is for 6V, but it seems to work just fine with the 5V supply from the ATtiny. On the mains side, the relay is rated for 230V/16A.
The whole controller is based on a ATtiny 45 µController. I use one pin as input for the 100k thermistor for temperature measurement (connected to JP3), one pin controls the mains relay (via a BC140 transistor), one pin controls a LED for feedback and one pin is connected to a switch for user input.
Reflow Soldering Controller – [Link]
Tiny ATtiny Node with temperature sensor project at Arduino Praxis:
Tiny sensor board with ATtiny84 and RFM12B Transceiver. The size of the PCB is 25 x 30mm, sightly larger than a canadian quarter coin.
Tiny ATtiny Node – [Link]
Ralph Doncaster writes:
Several months ago I noticed the Attiny88. It has several more I/O than the Atmega328, with an extra Port A and PC7. And unlike most of the other Attiny series, it has real SPI instead of USI, so libraries using SPI don’t have to be re-written. At just 86c for qty 1, it is the also the cheapest AVR with 8KB flash. Since QFP-32 parts aren’t easy to work with, I searched for breakout boards and found QFP32 to DIP32 boards that would allow me to use them in a small breadboard.
Breaking out a QFP Attiny88 AVR – [Link]
anool @ wyolum.com builds a pulse lamp controller for the parking light of his KTM bike. He writes:
My brother is a Mechanical Engineer who loves his KTM Duke 200 bike. He asked me to build this circuit : http://sunbizhosting.co.uk/~spiral/blog/?p=227 for a ‘heartbeat’ lamp controller for the parking light. A Neutral Detect (ND) signal controls the lamp pulsing. When ND is HIGH, the Lamp is fully lit. When ND goes LOW, the lamp starts pulsing.
I’m not familiar with PIC microcontrollers, and didn’t want to dabble in “C” code. I’d be comfortable with an Arduino, but even the smallest ATMega seemed too big (and overkill) for this simple requirement. How about an ATTiny ? A bit of Googling, and I found this excellent resource for running the Arduino environment on the ATTiny : http://hlt.media.mit.edu/?p=1695
p.u.l.s.e. – fader control for Motorcycle parking Lamp – [Link]
If you have a simple Arduino project that uses only a few pins, you might be able to shrink it down to a single 8-pin ATtiny chip. In this video, Matt Richardson shows you how, based on a tutorial from MIT Media Lab’s High-Low Tech Group. The best part is you can use the same Arduino code and development environment that you’re already used to.
How-To: Shrinkify Your Arduino Projects – [Link]
randofo @ instructables writes:
The 8-Pin Programming Shield allows you to program ATtiny series chips using the Arduino itself as the programmer. In other words, you plug this into your Arduino and then you can easily program 8-pin chips. These small microcontrollers can then be incorporated into any project that you want. Follows are instructions for assembling your own 8-Piin Programming Shield.
8-Pin Arduino Programming Shield – [Link]
In this article you will learn how to programm an ATtiny mcu using Arduino IDE.
Follows are directions for programming the ATtiny microcontrollers using the Arduino IDE. In plain English, this is how to program 8-pin Atmel chips as you would normally an Arduino. This is cool because the ATtiny is tiny, and – well – this allows you to make tiny things that don’t need a big ol’ microcontroller.
Program an ATtiny with Arduino – [Link]
Niek designed this BareDuino micro, that is available at github:
For some Arduino projects, you don’t actually need that many IO pins. That’s exactly the case when I tried to build a simple RGB throwie that would cycle through colours. I was looking for a cheaper alternative to the Arduino UNO’s ATmega328P when I stumbled across this post by MIT’s High-Low Tech lab. They developed a library for programming the 8-pins ATtiny45/85 from the Arduino IDE. It’s a very smart solution to use permanently in some low pin-usage projects, but you still need to hook up individual wires from your programmer to the ATtiny to be able to program it. That’s when I came up with the idea of the BareDuino Micro.
BareDuino micro – [Link]