Build a cheap and simple full software controlled step-up (boost) converter to drive a LED string of 10 LEDs. LEDs are used as string to light up a acrylic engraved plate placed in a holder (also made out 5 layers of lasered black acrylic glas). Step up is from 5V to about 30V, current regulated to about 20mA.
LED step-up converter with ATtiny85 - [Link]
by Superbender @ instructables.com:
Winter just arrived. The enemy of all batteries. Last year this was the season the auxiliary battery of my T3 VW camper bus bit the dust. This likely happened because I neglected to take care of it over the winter months during which the bus is typically parked in my garage. When the auxiliary battery is really dead dead, aka croaked, it is not only not working, but it also prevents the main battery used for starting/driving of the bus to be properly charged when driving. Not a good situation if you are somewhere out in the woods and eventually need a ride back to civilization. After almost getting stuck in the boonies, I decided to build a two-channel battery cycle charger that is supposed to keep both batteries happy and healthy for these winter months. You can see this project documented here.
ATtiny85 Two-Channel Lead Acid Battery Charger - [Link]
In a presentation at the Maker Faire held in Rome this weekend Arduino co-founder Massimo Banzi gave a preview of the soon to be released Gemma wearable Arduino board. The 27 mm diameter board contains an ATtiny85 processor programmable from the Arduino IDE via Gemma’s micro USB connector. The design is a collaborative effort together with Adafruit Industries who also worked on the Arduino Micro.
The ATtiny85 has 8K of flash and 5 I/O pins, including analog inputs and PWM outputs. It was designed with a USB bootloader so you can plug it into any computer and reprogram it over a USB port (it uses 2 of the 5 I/O pins, leaving you with 3). Ideal for small & simple projects sewn with conductive thread, the Arduino Gemma fits the needs of most of entry-level wearable creations including reading sensors and driving addressable LED pixels.
The Arduino Gemma - [Link]
Another Instructables by Jan Henrik, a police light with a Attiny25/45/85. He writes:
Hello, in this project I want to show you how to build a multi functional Police Light with a Attiny25/45/85 .
It will have several animations , which can be changed with a button on the circuit board, it has 2 channels, which can be controlled with PWM. That allows us to add serval animations or police light flashing sequences. The maximum rated current per channel is 500mA, that allows us to control high power LED´s, LED stripes or old Light Bulbs!
Attiny25/45/85 police light with Arduino - [Link]
Neven Boyanov @ open-electronics.org writes:
The Tinusaur is a small board with a ATtiny85 micro-controller on it. The board has the minimum required components for the micro-controller to work properly. It also has few headers to connect external components and connector for ISP programmer. The board could work with any of those DIP-8 chips such as ATtiny25/ATtiny45/ATtiny85, ATtiny13 as well as their variations.
The goal of the Tinusaur project is to have a simple, cheap and quick-start platform for everyone interested in learning and creating things.
The Tinusaur Project - [Link]
by vishalapr @ instructables.com
The first time I saw a POV (Persistence Of Vision) display was on a show called FAQ on TV. The POV display consisted of an oscillating shaft with 6 LED’s mounted on the end of the shaft.
Since then I have always wanted to make one myself, I tried making one about 2 months ago with an oscillating shaft myself but I was not successful as the speed of the shaft was too low for the POV display to work. Now I decided to make the POV display with just a DC Motor instead of an oscillating shaft as they are much cheaper and easily available compared to the shafts.
ATtiny85 POV Display - [Link]
Mastro Gippo writes:
I just finished wrapping up an article about a small project I did in Shenzhen during the HackerCamp with Ian. I hope you find it interesting and feature it!
Making stuff in Shenzhen – The Grillino - [Link]
Possibly the smallestest ATtiny85 based ‘duino derivative.
Recently, Olimex anncounced the Olimexino 85s, claimed to be the “World’s smallest Arduino ever“. Now, that looks like a challenge. I guess it is about time to show off what has been on my desk since some time last year: The Nanite, pictured below.
I designed this board for fun after the Digispark and, subsequentally, the Adafruit Trinket were announced. The motivation was to have my own ATtiny85 based development board based on a USB bootloader and optimized for the ubiquitous 170 point mini-breadboards. In contrast to the Digispark it even sports a reset button. However, it lacks an integrated voltage converter as it is supposed to be powered by USB.
The Smallest ATtiny85 Based USB Board - [Link]
An Attiny85 IR Biped Robot by coretechrobotics.blogspot.de:
Although wheeled robots would be better for beginners I wanted to build a legged robot. Mostly because there were no continuous motors in reach and my attempt to modify a servo failed miserably.
One of the simplest solutions is a biped robot that moves as it shifts its weight. Two servos are needed for the feet and another two to move the legs to go forward or backwards. It is boring to just make the robot walk until the batteries are dead. So I decided to use infrared to receive commands.
An Attiny85 IR Biped Robot - [Link]
Here’s a simple cure for your posture and the back pain blues, a posture sensor by Wingman:
The simplest distance sensors are ultrasonic or infrared sensors. I went with a SR-HC04 because it is cheap and sufficiently precise. There are no special requirements to the controller so I am using an Attiny85. A small piezo speaker provides acoustic feedback to the user. The only thing left is the power supply for which 5V are needed because of the ultrasonic sensor. You could easily use an USB port but I did not want to rely on a computer, 3 button cells deliver around 4,5V and should work for a few days.
A simple posture sensor - [Link]