In this project we introduce easy to build, miniature servo controller. This miniature servo controller system is ideal for most of the robotic and mechanical projects. Some of the most notable key features of this project are:
- Tiny PCB design (35mm × 33mm aprox.) using standard through-hole components.
- Support for both analog and digital control interfaces.
- Compatible with most of the servo units.
- Low cost due to small amount of components.
Mini PIC12F675 Servo Controller - [Link]
The General purpose 16×2 or 16×1 char LCD are very easy to interface with any microcontroller , and these lcd are really very cheap and thoroughly available in the whole world, but the only problem with these lcd is they require 4 or 8 data lines + 2 or 3 control line to at minimum 6 line and maximum 11 lines are required. that not good because many small package microcontroller like PIC10 ,PIC12,PIC16 from microchip ,MSP430 Texas Instrument and Attiny from Atmel there all microcontroller have either 6 to 15 I/O lines. in this condition this technique will save you many I/O line because in this we use only 2 wires to connect the lcd with any microcontroller.
16×2 Serial LCD using PIC12F675 - [Link]
This code is for a simple RGB LED controller for 1 RGB LED using a PIC12F675 (or PIC12F629). The pattern is determined by the data in the EEPROM. When the PIC needs a new target for the PWM, it loads it from EEPROM. Pin 4 (GP3) is pulled high because it is used to switch between displays. Please see the source code for more information; the structure and design is commented. The operation of the controller is very simple and so is the wiring.
PIC12F675 Single RGB LED Controller – [Link]
This mini protoboard you can use for a small project. With this board that you can start with some simple projects such as LED Flaser and progressing on to more advanced projects.
Mini Protoboard For PIC12F675 – [Link]
This project is a wireless bluetooth thermometer module based on PIC12F675 microcontroller, DS18B20 1-Wire temperature sensor and LP2950 linear power supply. The 8 pin mcu runs on 8MHz and the bluetooth module is from Sure Electronics. The data are transmitted via serial protocol in ASCII format. [via]
Bluetooth Thermometer module - [Link]
This project shows how to build an automatic home light that will switch ON every time you are coming or leaving home. This circuit is a module to Dual Channel IR Remote Control and is separated to two PCBs. It has a dual power supply, 8.4V for IR LEDs and 5V for everything else. Ambient light level measurement is done with CdS cell on A/D converter of PIC12F675 so that the lights don’t turn on during the daytime. It also has a Sharp IS471F obstacle detection sensor with two transmitting IR LEDs, plus an additional IR focus lens for longer range. There is also a third IR LED for RC5 code transmission for “remote controller” emulation by the PIC. Check code and schematics of this project on the link below.
Automatic coming/leaving home light – [Link]
This project is a variable speed control for the heater blower in a car. The heart of the circuit is a PIC12F675. PIC is reading the potentiometer value and generates appropriately timed pulses to control the DC motor. Check project details on the link below.
PWM Motor Control - [Link]
Based on the idea from http://www.josepino.com/pic_projects/?timebase I have created a 1Hz Clock Generator. I use PIC12F675 as it’s available locally. Its price is just about US$1.
The concept is using 32.768kHz crystal as a clock for the PIC. Therefor, the internal instruction clock is 32768/4 = 8192 Hz. By using the 16 bit Timer1 to count the instruction clock cycles, the interrupt will occur every 8 second. This period can be reduced by setting initial value of the Timer1 (TMR1H:TMR1L).
1Hz Clock Generator using PIC12F675 - [Link]
As you can see, the candle is run from a PIC12F675. This is an 8 pin microcontroller with 5 I/O lines. I decided to run the candle from 4 AA batteries, giving me a 6 volt power supply. The battery holder provided a nice base to help the candle remain upright. Because the PIC requires 5 volts, I added a 1N4148 diode that has a 1 volt voltage drop, thus providing me with 5 volts. I used five 15,000mcd LEDs (very bright) to give me a bright flame. This makes the candle much brighter than my storebought candle. I also used 5 LEDs as it gives a much more realistic flame, looking more “flickery.”
LED Candle - [Link]