I'm confused on what you are trying to do. Are you just trying to add a kill button to stop the motor/?

Sorry, you got a bad deal!

I was thinking about just resoldering all of the joints on the back. Might help, can't hurt, right? Cold solder joints can cause something like this from my experience....

Well, I would go to the store where I bought it and tell them to put it where the sun doesn

Hi Jordan,

There are two possibilities here; one is that this is a crappy player (I have seen others also struggling with diverse problems with this model). Second; the installation is poorly done (unless the car harness has some flaw)!

Well I think the first is more of the issue. I thought it would possibly be the installation myself too. I Thought about how unclean power is in a car and how much the voltage varies. I mean you will see 12.2v and then 14.4v with ranges in between. So I removed the head unit from the car and hooked it up to a clean, stable bench top power supply and it was the same or worse. That's also when it went into the security mode for the second time. I'm not paying eclipse to unlock it either, it's my cd player and they made it so I can't use it? wtf is that?

So, are my options really limited here or what?

Thanks,
Jordan

I have an Eclipse CD-8455 head unit that I'm having all kinds of trouble with. Sometimes when you turn the car off it will stay on but is frooze. Sometimes it will shutoff and you can't turn it on, it's like it's unplugged, and this is the second time it has gone into security mode and I can't unlock it without paying $25 each time.

It's out of warranty so Eclipse won't help at all without money for every little thing. They said to send it in at a flat rate or $200 and they will call back if it will cost more. SCREW THAT.

So, I have it all torn apart and down the the pcb. Shouldn't it come out of Security Mode if I clear the cmos? What should I do with this thing? It's a $400 head unit and I've barely used it. So frustrating, like putting $400 through the shredder.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jordan

Well I talked to the guy that made the DDR circuit and got this response:

Yeah the MOSFET can sustain 55A in certain conditions of temperature/heat disipation and continuous signal, but i wouldn't get that close to the limit in this application. Anyway, it's current handling capabilities are exceeeding by a large margin the necessary in this situation, and you should be more concerned by the limitations imposed by the wires and connectors (and even the PSU's 5V rail) rather than the transistor.
Referring to the idea you've proposed, first of all you'll need two power transistors, one for sourcing and one for sinking, with separate buffer circuits for each. The other problem is that a Darlington setup means a base-emitter voltage drop of at least 1.2V, wich is simply unacceptable cosidering your output voltage must have a minimum of 1.25V. You must use MOSFET transistors wich don't have such limitations, but a problem with the control circuit appears, as these need a high gate voltage to completely open.

I was thinking I could just make a whole new circuit that was adjusted by a pot so I can run it at any voltage I want. Then I dont have to go exactly half, maybe even run it a bit more than half...

Thanks!

Needs to be like the attached image. I need as clean and stable power as possible.

Ive searched the net for a long time for this and just really need help.

Thank you VERY much.

what kind of circuit did this guy use?

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=73043

he had 2mv droop is all too

lol there isnt an easy way to do it without needing big heatsinks and stuff?

Hi Jordan,

Why do you call the attached design “switching”?

I thought it was becuase of the switching mosfet 

Told you Im a noob lol.

Now that you mention that, your right, its definatly linear. The guy said the mosfet gets very hot, and there arent any op amps. Do you think thats a good circuit for like 15amps of clean, stable power? Or, should I add a couple more caps and an inductor?

I need a linear 5amp design that has ULTRA clean and stable power that is highly adjustable from 1.25-2v. I need the least droopage possible.

Ive got a design for 5v to 2.5-4.1v now. Its a switching design. I also need this 1.25-2v design though.

If someone could help me that woudl be SUPERB!

Ive attached a schematic of the switching design and the parts are quoted below. If you all see a mistake or see somewhere that needs improving, please tell me.

Thanks!!!
-Jordan

T = STP55NF03L
IC = TL431
C1, C3 = 3300uF/6.3V low-ESR
C2 = 100-470uF/16V low-ESR
R1 = 390ohm
R2 = 1.5Kohm
P = 1Kohm multiturn

A larger new capacitor has a better ripple-current rating.
If the capacitor is used as the rectifier filter in a high current power supply, It will have a high ripple voltage across it because its charging and discharging currents are high. A small capacitor will overheat and fail. You might need to use a large capacitor with a higher voltage rating to find one with a high ripple-current rating.
Large old capacitors have about the same ripple-current ratings as small new ones, so don't just select a larger size.

cool, thanks. Ive read that its not a real good idea in most cases to go over 150% original capacitance. The voltage doesn seem to matter either. Like I can use a 25v cap in place of a 10v cap without problems. Also Ive read that the low-ESR caps are the ones rated for 105c (usually).

Sound all up to par?

Does the physical size of a capacitor matter? Like a tiny 16v 1000uf just as good as a large 16v 1000uf?

why is nobody replying?