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Downed Model Locator II
source: Rob Crockett 10/99

Here is another device to help you locate your downed
R/C sailplane in the bushes and weeds. Similar to the other design,
this circuit plugs into a spare servo socket on your receiver, and it is
a pulse omission detector. The alarm sounds when pulses originating
from your transmitter are no longer being received--turn off your
transmitter to turn on the alarm and help you find your plane. This
circuit is simpler than the other design, is much easier to build, but
is not quite as specific. While the other design tests for a specific
frequency of pulses, this design is less picky, and may not work quite
as well in areas with more radio frequency background noise. This
design was originally collected from another web site, but the site has
gone off-line and I'm unable to give proper credit to the individual. I
modified the original design a little to make it work more reliably with
the more aggressive automatic gain control of some of the current
receivers.
The circuit draws 1mA (!) when idle and 7 when buzzing. You can use a
piezo buzzer right on the board (light and compact), a large piezo
buzzer on a short wires (louder and easier to hear tone), or use the
magnetic buzzer (a little heavier but good raspy sound). With the
transmitter off, the alarm is mostly on, punctuated now and then by a
servo wiggle and alarm silence from background radiofrequency noise
pulses. This device is easy to build and works great. It's amazing how
much your search time will be cut even with wind or surf noise in the
background. Being able to hear it from 20 feet away often makes the
difference between finding and not finding a plane.
If your plane went down because of radio interference, this device
may not sound much. If you think it may have been interference from
another pilot's transmitter on your frequency, be sure to have the other
transmitter turned off before you go hunting for your plane.
The circuit uses your receiver battery for power. For the ultimate in
reliability, you can use an additional battery to supply the alarm as
follows. Connect only signal and negative leads to your receiver socket,
and connect the second battery positive to positive circuit lead and
negative to negative circuit lead. You will need to put some kind of
switch in series with the second battery to keep it from running the
alarm when you are not flying. With the extra battery, you will still be
able to find your plane if your plane went down because of a receiver
battery failure, or if your receiver battery fell out in the crash.
Note: Do NOT solder to a button battery--they explode.
Here are few Radio Shack parts numbers. Please note that any type of
capacitor will work (ceramic, electrolytic, etc.) but that the tantalum
and monolithic capacitors are very small. The tantalum capacitors are
polarized, but at these low voltages, the polarity probably does not
matter.
| 273-074 |
board mount tiny 12 volt piezo buzzer, one per |
$2.99 |
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| 273-065 |
larger and louder 12 volt piezo buzzer, one per |
$2.99 |
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| 273-054 |
6 volt electromagnetic buzzer, one per |
$2.59 |
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| 276-1617 |
2N2222-type NPN switching transistors (box of 15) |
$2.29 |
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| 276-2023 |
2N4402-type PNP transistor (MPS2907), one per |
$0.59 |
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| 272-109 |
0.1uF monolithic capacitors, five per |
$1.89 |
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| 272-1434 |
1uF tantalum capacitor |
$0.59 |
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| 271-312 |
1/4 watt resistor assortment, 100 pieces |
$7.99 |
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Happy hunting
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