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Hi all, Finally after some months have gone by, my build of the Power Supply is done. I have used liquibyte schematic Rev. 8 and had made the cirquit board according to the Gerber.zip file he posted here: 0-30V Stabilized Power Supply Page 88 posted October 6, 2014 "http://electronics-lab.com/community/index.php?/topic/29563-0-30v-stabilized-power-supply/&page=88" I left out D10 and R15 as per his description. I have plenty of boards leftover if someone has a need for it. There was only one mistake liquibyte made which have outlined in one of the pictures uploaded here. I was fortunate enough to get a big case with a Toroidal transformer from the scrapyard. Also many parts are recycled from various sources. Regards, William

Finally, my post with the Eagle .sch and .brd, full gerbers, and parts list for Digikey in a zip file. I'm also including many of the pics I took as I was building that were posted both before and after this post. I'm still not completely done and may add more pics later. One thing I have changed is the third transformer for the auxiliary circuitry for the temperature sensor and fans and the displays (I wanted a better transformer than the Radio Shack special I had on hand). Archive attached. 30V.zip

An H-Bridge (Full-Bridge) driver is quite popular in driving loads such as brushed DC motors and it is widely used in robotics and industry. The main advantages of using an H-Bridge driver are: high efficiency, rotation direction change, and braking the motor. In this article/video, I have introduced a complete H-Bridge DC motor driver using four IR3205 power MOSFETs and two IR2104 MOSFET drivers. Theoretically, the above-mentioned MOSFET can handle currents up to 80A, however, in practice we can expect to get currents up to 40A if the MOSFET temperature is kept as low as possible, using a big heatsink or even a fan. References Article: https://www.pcbway.com/blog/technology/Powerful_H_Bridge_DC_Motor_Driver.html [1]: IRF3205 Datasheet: http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irf3205.pdf [2]: IR2104 Datasheet: https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-IR2104-DS-v01_00-EN.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a4015355c7c1c31671 [3]: 1N5819 Datasheet: https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/ds23001.pdf [4]: IR2104 Schematic Symbol, PCB Footprint, 3D Model: https://componentsearchengine.com/part-view/IR2104PBF/Infineon [5]: IRF3205 Schematic Symbol, PCB Footprint, 3D Model: https://componentsearchengine.com/part-view/IRF3205ZPBF/Infineon [6]: CAD Plugins: https://www.samacsys.com/library-loader-help

Thanks for sharing your project with us. Could you give more details on the control board?

The original circuit should work fine up to 15V at 1A if you replace the old opamps with the newer higher voltage ones. You probably should recalculate the resistors that set the maximum voltage and current outputs. If the Chinese kit uses the transistor that shorts the opamp output when the power is turned off then the resistors that feed the transistor need to be recalculated for the reduced voltage. I have used perforated stripboard for many projects including very complicated ones. The copper strips are cut to length with a drill-bit and become almost half the wiring of a pcb. The parts and a few short jumper wires become the remainder of the wiring. Only one wire is in each hole so changing a part is easy like on a pcb.

Hi, as promised I made an English translation of my working. Maybe there is few mistakes and I am sorry for that ! Good reading. ExplicationEN.pdf

So Finally which version of schematic is correct / flawless to build the PSU ?

February 23 above on this page has the latest schematic of the revised 3A lab power supply.

Does anyone has LM3914 pspice library? i desperately need it..pleeeeease!

I want to apply force for an extended amount of time (10 secs to a couple minutes) using a solenoid actuator. Unfortunately, it seems that solenoids use a lot of power when they are active. Is there a solenoid type that will only use power when switching between active and not active? There's probably a way I can do this with an external mechanism, but I was wondering if there may be commercial solenoids that have this built-in. Thanks, Jessica

Illegal content (ebook/magazines/software) will be deleted without any notice. Thanks

In a few circuit diagrams i have they refer to a what seems to me is a transistor with B C E as a overload protector and with number A16 and i have looked for a few hours on the net and i can't find anything on this little fellow, Anyone knows what I'm looking for and wanna share that info Please .... Come on !! 48 visits !! some one must know what it is !!! PNP is it also...........

At last i got a theori from a totally different place and he wasn't shure either but he had a weak memory that it could be 1A16 and a PNP transistor but after several deep searches on the I-net it didn't make any kind of senses whatsoever ???

When you use your resistive divider to drop the voltage down to 5 volts, you just need to select values of resistors to limit the current. This is basic ohm's law. V/R. Was this your question or did I misunderstand? I am not sure how you intend to monitor status by using one 5 volt pin. As an interface to the parallel port, you could use an LM3914. This would give you the resolution you need. There are also many other ways to proceed. You need to convert from analog to digital to read anything useful from the parallel port. MP

Hi TJBraza, http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/Data_Sheets/ADT7485A.pdf Although, it will probably require a small program written in C or Visual basic to convert the string MSB & LSB into a more easier read etc... Take a moment and review the data sheet, the IC has a lot of potential.

I can't find SL100 & SK100 transistor :'( Which transistors can replace these? Thank you for your help~ ;)

Calm down people. It is not Mixos's fault, if it is against the law he has to remove the content. This site is very good for asking electronic related questions, I have yet to find a better one.

I need to build a latch circuit with one tactile switch and mosfets. Any idea how to go about it Will help.

Introduction Arduino IDE is a convenient tool to write your code and upload to microcontrollers. However, it doesn’t come with debugger function, which means the only way to debug our program is through using debug message through standard output, in this case, Serial Monitor. Debug message is handy and it helps to print out the information the registers holds at a specific time, but once you have done debugging and your program is ready to go, we often have to delete/comment out those debug message code manually, in a big project, this could be problematic as there are just too manny of them. Today, I am going to show you an easy method to turn on / off debug message with only a few lines of code. Method Take a look of the following C code, //#define __DEBUG__ #ifdef __DEBUG__ #define DEBUG(...) printf(__VA_ARGS__) #else #define DEBUG(...) #endif Since all Ameba microcontroller supports printf(), we can re-define printf() to a preprocessor function, in this case, I name it DEBUG(). Whenever you want to print out the debug message, instead of Serial.print() or printf(), you should try using DEBUG() instead, it works just like the previous two, but can be easily enabled or disabled by uncomment //#define __DEBUG__ or just leave the comment syntax there. Let’s look at an example Example code 1 This is a simple code that only print out “Debug msg 1” and “Debug msg 2” alternatively with a 1 second delay in between. Screenshot 2021-01-22 1639441919×1079 173 KB Note that the first line of the code is uncommented, and we are seeing the debug messages actually got printed out using the DEBUG() function. Example code 2 Screenshot 2021-01-22 1641171920×1077 127 KB Note that this is the same code except I keep the first line commented out, and as a result, no debug messages got print out at all. It works! Conclusion All you need to do is to copy the few lines of code from above into the top of your arduino sketch and you may name your custom debug function anything you like and it will work like a charm. Turn on / off is just to keep / remove the // at the first line, very convenient. Hope you like this content, stay healthy and happy coding~

Hi, where can I find datasheet of STK407-070B? I just want to make a home made amplifier. thanks :D

my room the temperature varies 31-33º the humidity varies 55-70% this epcos information valid for other electrolytic capacitor manufacturers? in the 1990s were electrolytic capacitors or another type of capacitor used?

Good afternoon! I think you should not be worried about that. Now it is not so hard to find a job like it was several years ago. I found mine last year on https://uk.jooble.org/jobs-part-time-staff-required-cash-hand/London. You can look for an appropriate job offer there. Different companies suggest different conditions. I mean, part-time and full-time, remote and office jobs, and so on.

If the transformer is rated at 24VAC/2A then it provides a maximum power of 24V x 2A= 48VA. But if the output is 30V at 2.0A then the load uses 30V x 2A= 60VA plus heating power. The peak of 24VAC is 40V which feeds the bridge rectifier which charges the main filter capacitor to the peak voltage minus the rectifier forward voltage. So then the transformer must produce 40V at 2.0A= 80VA which is much more than the overloaded 48VA. 80VA/24V= 3.33A, not 2A. For a regulated output of 30.0VDC at 3A then I recommended using a transformer rated at 28VAC/4.3A. For an output current of 3A then you must look at how much heat is produced by the single output transistor which is why I recommended using two output transistors to share the heat. Edited with strike-throughs.

I’m in the process of a move to an area which I’ve been told has regular power fluctuations and a few power cuts as well. I have been researching how to provide clean and safe power to my electronic components which would include a Denon receiver, 2 Power amps, a Blu-ray player, Projector, gaming console etc. I am contemplating the below options: Option A: Mains to a Voltage Stabilizer to Power Condtioner(Furman) to the electronic components Option B: Mains to an Online UPS(APC) to a Power Condtioner(Furman) to the electronic components Would one of these work? Or is there a better solution to consider?

Thanks for sharing this project. I just edited it a bit, so code would look better.

Some developers really need MS .NET Framework for some reason on their ARM devices (mainly on Raspberry Pi). So, basing on their requests, I have made a short tutorial on how to setup .NET on Raspberry Pi.

The clipping circuit does not have energy storage elements like capacitors but it includes both resistors and transistors. This circuit is normally used for the selection in the transmission purpose. The ability of diodes to allow the flow of current in only one direction. A diode is best tested by measuring the voltage drop across the diode when it is forward-biased. A forward-biased diode acts as a closed switch, permitting current to flow. No voltage exists at the diode but voltage may be present in the circuit due to charged capacitors.

The colors of capacitors describe the types of capacitors. The color used to identify the components or parts on the circuit board. The round blue colored balls with dots indicate that its a capacitor. Same as other colors are used for other components.

@Jeremy You may have 2 PCB's for AU$5 plus shipping in an envelope. Two boards weigh about 44grams. Email me if you would like some to: [email protected] Cheere, William PS. Seems your Kit has a problem to start with. Before I found this Forum I ordered two Banggood Kits. It is still not assembled and probably never will be. Anyway, over at this page there is a lengthy description on how to improve the Banggood kit. "www.paulvdiyblogs.net/2015/05/tuning-030v-dc-with-03a-psu-diy-kit.html"

Ok, skip the voltage and current LCD panel With R18 = 33 kOhm I have got 4,7 A on out... U3 was replaced for another .

PCB Manufacturer uses: Front-end tool data preparation, Preparing the photo tools, Print inner layers, Etch inner layers, Register punch and Automatic Optical Inspection (AOI), Lay-up and bond, Drilling the PCB, Electroless copper deposition, Image the outer layers, Plating, Apply solder mask, Silk-screen and cure.

You forgot to say if the 10V output from your power supply must be AC or DC. You also forgot to say if the input is AC or DC and its voltage and frequency. Did you know that the output power from your power supply will be 10V x 1000A= 10000 Watts? Where will it come from? What will it be used for?

You points are well made; thanks. On day one I found two voltage boosters on Ebay that gave more than 100 volts so I ordered both of them from China. The first one I received was a 12v dc to 200 v dc. After connecting it up and adjusting it for 200 v I put a 100k resistor across the output and got 2 volts output! It took a one mega-ohm load to keep 200 v. The second one (12v dc to 220 v ac) works well. I connected it to the 220v to 120v step down transformer and into a full wave bridge rectifier with a 100mfd capacitor and got 140 v dc; 9.6 volts input. With a 8.4 v NiMH rechargeable battery I get 128 v dc. So I am happy with that and very surprised that the 50/60 hertz transformer works at all!

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Looking for an Ultrasonic Cleaner schematic. Gokar

How many digital IO lines do you have on your microcontroller? and how many LEDs do you want to drive?

You need to be more specific about your project, so we can help.

How about providing a circuit. One picture is worth a thousand words!

A solenoid is just a linear motor therefore with no power you have no holding torque. You can get a mechanical assist with some via a spring but unless you want to hold open when the power is off and release when power is on I don't think this will do you much good. I think what you'll be after is some sort of mechanical solution beyond just the solenoid itself.

parts i have : antenna wire,magnetic wire,toroid core, 23 mhz crysrtal oscillator,some transistors ,resistors,capacitors.... i want to design circuit to simply on and off the led by radio waves. could u sugest me simple circuit with to do this.. plzz.thank you in adavance

http://www.metalstorm.com/

thanks hero999 is there any formula for this issue? my coil is 57ohm

It is probably an Oriental 2SC828 transistor. Go to www.datasheetarchive.com to see its spec's and to see substitution guides.

It could be used as a switch, amplifier or (as you've said) part of a current limiting circuit. Bipolar transistors have so many applications that it's impossible to tell you what it's doing from what you've said. For example if I asked you "I've seen a flat head screw; what's it holding together?", how could you know the answer? If you post a picture I might be able to tell you but even then the only way is to post a schematic.

Here is the book in pdf for you all. You can press the free button and you have to wait about a minute then it gives you the links. Just pick one. http://rapidshare.com/files/3372603/Practical_Electronics_for_Inventors.pdf

After running across this at the public library in town, I just had to order my own copy: "Practical Electronics for Inventors" by Paul Scherz It covers just about everything from DC to Microcontrollers and is well illustrated.

Here is all I have Playstation2_Repairguide.pdf

;D thank

I'm having a real hard time with these! Here is what I have so far. These only mention your chips but, it is something. http://www.eio.com/lcd.htm http://earthlcd.com/zlcd/downloads/lm24014w.pdf http://forum.microchip.com/tm.asp?m=29114 http://www.mpja.com/download/14619opap.pdf