Leaderboard

Hi all, Finally after some months have gone by, my build of the Power Supply is done. I have used liquibyte schematic Rev. 8 and had made the cirquit board according to the Gerber.zip file he posted here: 0-30V Stabilized Power Supply Page 88 posted October 6, 2014 "http://electronics-lab.com/community/index.php?/topic/29563-0-30v-stabilized-power-supply/&page=88" I left out D10 and R15 as per his description. I have plenty of boards leftover if someone has a need for it. There was only one mistake liquibyte made which have outlined in one of the pictures uploaded here. I was fortunate enough to get a big case with a Toroidal transformer from the scrapyard. Also many parts are recycled from various sources. Regards, William

Finally, my post with the Eagle .sch and .brd, full gerbers, and parts list for Digikey in a zip file. I'm also including many of the pics I took as I was building that were posted both before and after this post. I'm still not completely done and may add more pics later. One thing I have changed is the third transformer for the auxiliary circuitry for the temperature sensor and fans and the displays (I wanted a better transformer than the Radio Shack special I had on hand). Archive attached. 30V.zip

Thanks for sharing your project with us. Could you give more details on the control board?

So Finally which version of schematic is correct / flawless to build the PSU ?

February 23 above on this page has the latest schematic of the revised 3A lab power supply.

Does anyone has LM3914 pspice library? i desperately need it..pleeeeease!

I want to apply force for an extended amount of time (10 secs to a couple minutes) using a solenoid actuator. Unfortunately, it seems that solenoids use a lot of power when they are active. Is there a solenoid type that will only use power when switching between active and not active? There's probably a way I can do this with an external mechanism, but I was wondering if there may be commercial solenoids that have this built-in. Thanks, Jessica

Illegal content (ebook/magazines/software) will be deleted without any notice. Thanks

In a few circuit diagrams i have they refer to a what seems to me is a transistor with B C E as a overload protector and with number A16 and i have looked for a few hours on the net and i can't find anything on this little fellow, Anyone knows what I'm looking for and wanna share that info Please .... Come on !! 48 visits !! some one must know what it is !!! PNP is it also...........

At last i got a theori from a totally different place and he wasn't shure either but he had a weak memory that it could be 1A16 and a PNP transistor but after several deep searches on the I-net it didn't make any kind of senses whatsoever ???

When you use your resistive divider to drop the voltage down to 5 volts, you just need to select values of resistors to limit the current. This is basic ohm's law. V/R. Was this your question or did I misunderstand? I am not sure how you intend to monitor status by using one 5 volt pin. As an interface to the parallel port, you could use an LM3914. This would give you the resolution you need. There are also many other ways to proceed. You need to convert from analog to digital to read anything useful from the parallel port. MP

Hi TJBraza, http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/Data_Sheets/ADT7485A.pdf Although, it will probably require a small program written in C or Visual basic to convert the string MSB & LSB into a more easier read etc... Take a moment and review the data sheet, the IC has a lot of potential.

I can't find SL100 & SK100 transistor :'( Which transistors can replace these? Thank you for your help~ ;)

Calm down people. It is not Mixos's fault, if it is against the law he has to remove the content. This site is very good for asking electronic related questions, I have yet to find a better one.

I am attaching a Troubleshooting FAQ’s I found for this power supply. It summarizes the 150 pages of an old thread into a single document. Hope this helps get some questions answered. 0-30V 0-3A Bench Power Supply Unit Troubleshooting FAQ’s.pdf

You will have to open the Eagle schematic with the software and then you will see that the values are linked to the reference number of the parts. This way it will be easy to identify.

I’m in the process of a move to an area which I’ve been told has regular power fluctuations and a few power cuts as well. I have been researching how to provide clean and safe power to my electronic components which would include a Denon receiver, 2 Power amps, a Blu-ray player, Projector, gaming console etc. I am contemplating the below options: Option A: Mains to a Voltage Stabilizer to Power Condtioner(Furman) to the electronic components Option B: Mains to an Online UPS(APC) to a Power Condtioner(Furman) to the electronic components Would one of these work? Or is there a better solution to consider?

Perhaps the chip is over heating with to much current draw? Try connecting only two motors to see what happens. For the l298n chip itself: For the IO Peak Output Current (each Channel) – Non Repetitive (t = 100ms) 3.0A –Repetitive (80% on –20% off; ton = 10ms) 2.5A –DC Operation 2.0A TOTAL DC CURRENT UP TO 4 A

Perhaps? To big? " This Fujifilm FinePix digital camera has Bluetooth connectivity for wireless media transfer. " https://www.bestbuy.com/site/fujifilm-finepix-xp130-16-4-megapixel-digital-camera-sky-blue/6204739.p?skuId=6204739

The original project used a 24VAC transformer and TL081 opamps that have a maximum allowed supply of 36V. Since the project was not able to produce 30VDC at 3A because the supply voltage was too low, I changed the transformer to 28VAC and changed the opamps to TLE2141 that have a maximum allowed supply of 44VDC. Please post a video of your TLE2141 opamps blowing up if you power them from the 66VDC produced from rectifying the 48VAC from your wrong transformer. Or just parallel the two 24VAC secondaries which produces a rectified 32VDC so that the maximum regulated output from the project will be about 25VDC at 3A. The TLE2141 U2 gets warm, not hot because its output current is fairly low since it drives the driver transistor Q2 that drives the output transistors to 3A.

The 24VAC transformer has an output voltage too low for this power supply to produce 30VDC at 3A. The regulation will fail and there will be lots of ripple in the output at and above about 25V at 3A. I recommended a 28VAC or 30VAC transformer and higher voltage opamps years ago. For an output up to 5A then the transformer max output current should be 7A or more, the main filter capacitor C1 value should be about 17000uF or more, there should be 3 output transistors each with its own emitter resistor, a larger heatsink for the output transistors and change the value of R7 from 0.47 ohms to 0.27 ohms. I finished making improvements on this project in July, 2014 but others have made more changes.

I am looking for the cheapest pcb manufacturer that i can. I have a project for a friend and OSH Park going to charge almost $900 for all the pcb's i need. Granted theres 3 copies of each board, but i cant do any thing with the other sets. Any help isappreciated. Thanks Joe

The LM3914 in a DIP case is not made anymore. Buy them before they are all gone.

Hi Youkito1991, Nice work!. Thank you for sharing your design and make the PCB available for anyone who wish to use it. Your description is nice and also the support of pictures is very useful. Regards, William

Impressive. It is not easy to charge the 150ah battery with solar panel directly. For proper charging using solar panel you just need to use a solar charge controller. You must also place the batteries in parallel connection for fast charge. Using solar charge controller avoid reverse current flow from Battery to a solar panel and unharmed pannels from burning. For proper charging your solar panel must create power more than 150w 150w is the threshold point for your charging. More the power added ……charging rate improve.

Hi Everyone, In this tutorial I am going to show you how to charge a Lithium 18650 Cell using TP4056 chip utilizing the solar energy or simply the SUN. Wouldn’t it be really cool if you can charge your mobile phones battery using the sun instead of a USB charger. You can also use this project as a DIY portable power bank. The total cost of this project excluding the battery is just under $5. The battery will addup another $4 to $5 bucks. So the total cost of the project is some what around $10. All components are available on my website for sale for really good price, the link is in the description below. Step 1: Hardware Requirement For this project we need: - A 5v Solar Cell (make sure it is 5v and not anything less than that) - A general purpose circuit board - A 1N4007 High Voltage, High Current Rated Diode (for reverse voltage protection). This diode is rated at forward current of 1A with peak reverse voltage rating of 1000V. - Copper Wire - 2x PCB Screw Terminal Blocks - A 18650 Battery Holder - A 3.7V 18650 Battery - A TP4056 battery protection board (with or without the protection IC) - A 5 V power booster - Some connecting cables - and general soldering equipments Step 2: How the TP4056 Work Looking at this board we can see that it has the TP4056 chip along with few other components of our interest. There are two LEDs on board one red and one blue. The red one comes on when it is charging and the blue one comes on when the charging is done. Then there is this mini USB connector to charge the battery from an external USB charger. There are also these two points where you can solder your own charging unit. These points are marked as IN- and IN+ We will be utilizing these two point to power this board. The battery will be connected to these two point marked as BAT+ and BAT- (pretty mush self explanatory) The board requires an input voltage of 4.5 to 5.5v to charge the battery There are two versions of this board available in the market. One with battery discharge protection module and one without it. Both boards offer 1A charging current and then cut off when finished. Furthermore, the one with protection switches the load off when the battery voltage drops below 2.4V to protect the cell from running at too low (such as on a cloudy day) - and also protects against over-voltage and reverse polarity connection (it will usually destroy itself instead of the battery) however please check you have it connected correctly the first time. Step 3: Copper Legs These boards gets really hot so I will be soldering them a bit above the circuit board. To achieve this I am going to use a hard copper wire to make legs of the circuit board. I will then be sliding the unit on the legs and will solder them all together. I will put 4 copper wires to make 4 legs of this circuit board. You can also use - Male Breakable Pin Headers instead of the copper wire to achieve this. Step 4: Assembly The assembly is very simple. The solar cell is connected to the TP4056 battery charging board's IN+ and IN- respectively. A diode is inserted at the positive end for the reverse voltage protection. Then the BAT+ and BAT- of the board is connected to the +ve and -ve ends of the battery. (That all we need for charging the battery). Now to power an Arduino board we need to boost up the output to 5v. So, we are adding a 5v voltage booster to this circuit. Connect the -ve end of the battery to the IN- of the booster and +ve to IN+ by adding a switch in between. OK, now lets have a look at what I have made. - I have connected the booster board straight to the charger however I will recommend putting a SPDT switch there. So when the device is charging the battery its only charging and not getting used Solar cells are connected to the input of the lithium battery charger (TP4056), whose output is connected to the 18560 lithium battery. A 5V step-up voltage booster is also connected to the battery and is used to convert from 3.7V dc to 5V dc. Charging voltage is typically around 4.2V. Voltage booster's input ranges from 0.9 to 5.0V. So it will see around 3.7V at it's input when the battery is discharging, and 4.2V when it's recharging. The output of the booster to the rest of the circuit will keep it's 5V value. Step 5: Testing This project will be very helpful to power a remote data logger. As we know, the power supply is always a problem for a remote logger and most of the times there is no power outlet available. A situation like that forces you to use some batteries to power your circuit. But eventually, the battery will die. Question is do you want to go there and charge the battery? Our inexpensive solar charger project will be an excellent solution for a situation like this to power an Arduino board. This project can also solve the efficiency issue of Arduino when in sleep. Sleep saves battery, however, the sensors and power regulators (7805) will still consume battery in idle mode draining the battery. By charging the battery as we use it, we can solve our problem. Thanks again for watching this video! I hope it helps you. If you want to support me, you can subscribe to my channel and watch my other videos. Thanks, ca again in my next video. TP4056.pdf

Thanks for the resources!!! I am currently working on the project "Electronic circuits of information collection and processing systems". The topic is very interesting, since I need to investigate the development of the linearizer of the first sensor with smooth and piecewise-linear approximation. It is also necessary to determine the value of the DC component extraction device from the signal of the second sensor. In addition to your recommended resources, I also used the writingcheap.com service, which helped me with the theoretical part of my work of developing an analog-to-digital converter. Using the information of this site http://www.analog.com/en/products/analog-to-digital-converters.html I was able to summarize the results of my research. You have an extremely helpful channel for students on YouTube. You have an extremely helpful channel for students on YouTube.

Since it was years ago I do not remember which page of which thread has version 6 or 7. I have the schematic and parts list of version 6 here:

I enlarged the image off the Amazon.com but could not read it https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-LCS1620-Lithium-battery/dp/B01M6TQPY2/ref=sr_1_3/141-0275392-4037060?ie=UTF8&qid=1499813460&sr=8-3&keywords=Black+%26+Decker+LCS1620 ...but ebay.com has a readable image http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Decker-LCS1620-20v-20-Volt-Lithum-Ion-Battery-Charger-NEW-/272090041874?epid=1640405275&hash=item3f59d48e12:g:mf8AAOSwawpXr3eh 120v @60hz 300ma

PCB Manufacturer uses: Front-end tool data preparation, Preparing the photo tools, Print inner layers, Etch inner layers, Register punch and Automatic Optical Inspection (AOI), Lay-up and bond, Drilling the PCB, Electroless copper deposition, Image the outer layers, Plating, Apply solder mask, Silk-screen and cure.

You forgot to say if the 10V output from your power supply must be AC or DC. You also forgot to say if the input is AC or DC and its voltage and frequency. Did you know that the output power from your power supply will be 10V x 1000A= 10000 Watts? Where will it come from? What will it be used for?

Drill a hole on top of the mailbox and insert a ----> Without its pole. Optional, add a door switch for the LED. Done fast for $1. Some silicone sealant may help.

I buy electronic parts from Digikey and Newark because they have offices and warehouses in my country and they stock everything. What can't you find?

hi friend i have audio amplifier made with 2 * C828. can you tell me which transistor use instead c828? thanks

Here are two SPICE models found online that will simulate the main IC functions including:- a) bar/dot mode selection, dot mode carry for cascaded ICs, c) resistor-programmed hi/lo reference voltages, d) output current selection, e) non-grounded V- and divider ladder, f) independent V+ and Vled, g) leakage current of outputs, h) segment overlap and i) supply current variation with V+ and Vref output load. This model is build by user "alec_t" at electro-tech-online.com forum. LM3914.zip LM3914asc.zip

A schematic would help us to answer the question. I wouldn't recommend either. A MOSFET would probably be better.

You need to be more specific about your project, so we can help.

"A solar charging system is not complete without an appropriate charge controller. Most units include a charge controller to charge 12-volt lead acid batteries and inverter for drawing power. Charge controllers are also available for lithium-ion to charge 10.8V packs (3 sells in series)."

Nobody makes an LA4058. You got the numbers mixed up, the schematic shows a Sanyo LA4508. Your 13.6V transformer must feed the rectifiers on the Power Part of the schematic. Maybe you fed the transformer wrongly to the amplifier instead of to the rectifiers? Then probably many parts are destroyed. Your 13.6V transformer will produce a peak of 19.2V and the rectifiers reduce it to +17.2V. With a 17V supply the LA4508 produces about 6W at clipping into 4 ohms per channel. Who told you 100W? It has fairly high distortion at low and high frequencies and it cuts frequencies above only 5kHz. Your amplifier probably uses one LA4508 for left woofer and left tweeter and the second LA4508 is probably used for right woofer and right tweeter.

How about providing a circuit. One picture is worth a thousand words!

Arklite take a look at this PS output at start up using current control.

Continued

I read several datasheets and application notes on 555 timers, but I can't seem to find the information I'm looking for. Specifically, I'd like to use the 555 as a pulse width modulator by using the control voltage (pin 5). The datasheets indicate that in monostable mode, the output pulse width can be varied by modulating the voltage at pin 5 (V5). They also indicate that in astable mode, modulating V5 will modulate pulse position. What I'm wondering is this: What is the relationship between the control voltage, V5, and the values of the timing resistors and caps? There are standard formulas for timing based on these resistors and caps. How are those formulas affected by the introduction of V5? Thanks. Darrin

thanks hero999 is there any formula for this issue? my coil is 57ohm

I made a Tesla transformer with a A811 tube. I did not force anything, it can run for hours. The making of: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7nivw7zxNM The result: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mp721VgxWQI

The meter will have an impedance of 10M so to divide by 10, all you need to do is connect a 90M high voltage resistor in series with it. This can be made using nine 10M resistors in series, each resistor needs to be rated to 1/10th of voltage being measured.

>:( Thats rubbish to delete these I have come to this site only for these great books Please get them back ::)

What about links to "illegal contents" like, Can we use rapidshare or other sites to upload such illegal contents and then provide links through e-lab?? (As Elektor magazines thread hasn't been deleted)...... Books posted by Ante were really beneficial and one of the best features of e-lab.....Anyway, legal problems can't be ignored.......

Here is all I have Playstation2_Repairguide.pdf

I attach it here also for fast view...