Leaderboard

Hi all, Finally after some months have gone by, my build of the Power Supply is done. I have used liquibyte schematic Rev. 8 and had made the cirquit board according to the Gerber.zip file he posted here: 0-30V Stabilized Power Supply Page 88 posted October 6, 2014 "http://electronics-lab.com/community/index.php?/topic/29563-0-30v-stabilized-power-supply/&page=88" I left out D10 and R15 as per his description. I have plenty of boards leftover if someone has a need for it. There was only one mistake liquibyte made which have outlined in one of the pictures uploaded here. I was fortunate enough to get a big case with a Toroidal transformer from the scrapyard. Also many parts are recycled from various sources. Regards, William

Finally, my post with the Eagle .sch and .brd, full gerbers, and parts list for Digikey in a zip file. I'm also including many of the pics I took as I was building that were posted both before and after this post. I'm still not completely done and may add more pics later. One thing I have changed is the third transformer for the auxiliary circuitry for the temperature sensor and fans and the displays (I wanted a better transformer than the Radio Shack special I had on hand). Archive attached. 30V.zip

But even if we disable debug, it will call print method and do not print anything. I mean we should make it something like #ifdef DEBUG Serial.print("\n debug controlled print"); #endif Here when we disable macro, its like code is not written for compiler, code will be removed in macro processing itself.

An H-Bridge (Full-Bridge) driver is quite popular in driving loads such as brushed DC motors and it is widely used in robotics and industry. The main advantages of using an H-Bridge driver are: high efficiency, rotation direction change, and braking the motor. In this article/video, I have introduced a complete H-Bridge DC motor driver using four IR3205 power MOSFETs and two IR2104 MOSFET drivers. Theoretically, the above-mentioned MOSFET can handle currents up to 80A, however, in practice we can expect to get currents up to 40A if the MOSFET temperature is kept as low as possible, using a big heatsink or even a fan. References Article: https://www.pcbway.com/blog/technology/Powerful_H_Bridge_DC_Motor_Driver.html [1]: IRF3205 Datasheet: http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irf3205.pdf [2]: IR2104 Datasheet: https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-IR2104-DS-v01_00-EN.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a4015355c7c1c31671 [3]: 1N5819 Datasheet: https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/ds23001.pdf [4]: IR2104 Schematic Symbol, PCB Footprint, 3D Model: https://componentsearchengine.com/part-view/IR2104PBF/Infineon [5]: IRF3205 Schematic Symbol, PCB Footprint, 3D Model: https://componentsearchengine.com/part-view/IRF3205ZPBF/Infineon [6]: CAD Plugins: https://www.samacsys.com/library-loader-help

Thanks for sharing your project with us. Could you give more details on the control board?

The original circuit should work fine up to 15V at 1A if you replace the old opamps with the newer higher voltage ones. You probably should recalculate the resistors that set the maximum voltage and current outputs. If the Chinese kit uses the transistor that shorts the opamp output when the power is turned off then the resistors that feed the transistor need to be recalculated for the reduced voltage. I have used perforated stripboard for many projects including very complicated ones. The copper strips are cut to length with a drill-bit and become almost half the wiring of a pcb. The parts and a few short jumper wires become the remainder of the wiring. Only one wire is in each hole so changing a part is easy like on a pcb.

Hi, as promised I made an English translation of my working. Maybe there is few mistakes and I am sorry for that ! Good reading. ExplicationEN.pdf

So Finally which version of schematic is correct / flawless to build the PSU ?

February 23 above on this page has the latest schematic of the revised 3A lab power supply.

Does anyone has LM3914 pspice library? i desperately need it..pleeeeease!

I want to apply force for an extended amount of time (10 secs to a couple minutes) using a solenoid actuator. Unfortunately, it seems that solenoids use a lot of power when they are active. Is there a solenoid type that will only use power when switching between active and not active? There's probably a way I can do this with an external mechanism, but I was wondering if there may be commercial solenoids that have this built-in. Thanks, Jessica

Illegal content (ebook/magazines/software) will be deleted without any notice. Thanks

In a few circuit diagrams i have they refer to a what seems to me is a transistor with B C E as a overload protector and with number A16 and i have looked for a few hours on the net and i can't find anything on this little fellow, Anyone knows what I'm looking for and wanna share that info Please .... Come on !! 48 visits !! some one must know what it is !!! PNP is it also...........

At last i got a theori from a totally different place and he wasn't shure either but he had a weak memory that it could be 1A16 and a PNP transistor but after several deep searches on the I-net it didn't make any kind of senses whatsoever ???

When you use your resistive divider to drop the voltage down to 5 volts, you just need to select values of resistors to limit the current. This is basic ohm's law. V/R. Was this your question or did I misunderstand? I am not sure how you intend to monitor status by using one 5 volt pin. As an interface to the parallel port, you could use an LM3914. This would give you the resolution you need. There are also many other ways to proceed. You need to convert from analog to digital to read anything useful from the parallel port. MP

Hi TJBraza, http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/Data_Sheets/ADT7485A.pdf Although, it will probably require a small program written in C or Visual basic to convert the string MSB & LSB into a more easier read etc... Take a moment and review the data sheet, the IC has a lot of potential.

I can't find SL100 & SK100 transistor :'( Which transistors can replace these? Thank you for your help~ ;)

Calm down people. It is not Mixos's fault, if it is against the law he has to remove the content. This site is very good for asking electronic related questions, I have yet to find a better one.

Well Power quality monitoring is important because it will help officials to understand about the quality, power of electricity for a safe regular process. It tells official about the electrical current flow and its quality. For more information visit our blog https://sfere-elec.net/products/Power-Quality-Monitoring-20.html

As this chip is made by Analog and Analog owns LTspice simulator the circuit appears in the simulator and can be explored there. The circuit there is slightly different. Note it uses the FDS6680A mosfets. If you want 10 amperes make sure the mosfets can handle the current. Go here and put in your requirements then you will see some 10 ampere chips: https://www.analog.com/en/parametricsearch/11491#/p5573=min|24&p5574=100|max&p5347=min|12&p5357=12|max&p5349=10|240&qsfv=vinmin|24_vinmax|100_vout|12_iout|10&p5362=Buck

Do you think it is a D6Gi1K or D6GiLK ? After the G it looks like an aye i gather. Not even close: http://twitpic.com/d6gilk SOT323 is a SMD package type; it has only three leads. Often a transistor.

what else is there?

If it is a 120 volt Cuisinart blender then you can get one here: They ship world wide. Else search for "1 uf 250vac capacitor" https://www.ebay.com/itm/281873849657 That is a horrible url !

There is an article "Design Project2 - BCD Calculator" that maybe helpful. http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~ece352/fall02/old_project/p2.pdf

from Wikipedia: = (K+L)(K+M)(L+N)(M+P)(N+Q)(P+Q) = (K+LM)(N+LQ)(P+MQ) = (KN+KLQ+LMN+LMQ)(P+MQ) = KNP + KLPQ + LMNP + LMPQ + KMNQ + KLMQ + LMNQ + LMQ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- K * N+LQ + LM*(N+LQ) K * N+LQ = KN+KLQ and LM*(N+LQ) = LMN+LMQ for the : (KN+KLQ+LMN+LMQ) for the fourth line multiply the third line by P and then by MQ from (P+MQ)

The IPS6021 is readily available from China via Ebay. There is a supplier in the UK also: https://www.ebay.com/itm/IPS6021RPBF-Intelligent-Power-Switch-High-Side-Active-High-1Output-5-5V-TO-252-5/152755283380?hash=item2390eca5b4:g:U~MAAOSwqXxdNtVK

If the transformer is rated at 24VAC/2A then it provides a maximum power of 24V x 2A= 48VA. But if the output is 30V at 2.0A then the load uses 30V x 2A= 60VA plus heating power. The peak of 24VAC is 40V which feeds the bridge rectifier which charges the main filter capacitor to the peak voltage minus the rectifier forward voltage. So then the transformer must produce 40V at 2.0A= 80VA which is much more than the overloaded 48VA. 80VA/24V= 3.33A, not 2A. For a regulated output of 30.0VDC at 3A then I recommended using a transformer rated at 28VAC/4.3A. For an output current of 3A then you must look at how much heat is produced by the single output transistor which is why I recommended using two output transistors to share the heat. Edited with strike-throughs.

I’m in the process of a move to an area which I’ve been told has regular power fluctuations and a few power cuts as well. I have been researching how to provide clean and safe power to my electronic components which would include a Denon receiver, 2 Power amps, a Blu-ray player, Projector, gaming console etc. I am contemplating the below options: Option A: Mains to a Voltage Stabilizer to Power Condtioner(Furman) to the electronic components Option B: Mains to an Online UPS(APC) to a Power Condtioner(Furman) to the electronic components Would one of these work? Or is there a better solution to consider?

Need info for scheme bms 12v I -[===]+ -[===]+ -[===]+ l I -[===]+ -[===]+ -[===]+ l I -[===]+ -[===]+ -[===]+ l I. I I. I I. I 12v - 12v +

Perhaps the chip is over heating with to much current draw? Try connecting only two motors to see what happens. For the l298n chip itself: For the IO Peak Output Current (each Channel) – Non Repetitive (t = 100ms) 3.0A –Repetitive (80% on –20% off; ton = 10ms) 2.5A –DC Operation 2.0A TOTAL DC CURRENT UP TO 4 A

I cannot see which connects to what. Can you provide a schematic?

Hi, I just finish my power supply ! I made a PDF document (with a lot of picture and explanation) who resume all the story about this adventure, and made a lot of measurment ! It is in French but I will translate in English soon. I thank all this community, who made a great job ! I join you some photos and my work on a PDF format. Alimentation0_30V.pdf

Thanks for the resources!!! I am currently working on the project "Electronic circuits of information collection and processing systems". The topic is very interesting, since I need to investigate the development of the linearizer of the first sensor with smooth and piecewise-linear approximation. It is also necessary to determine the value of the DC component extraction device from the signal of the second sensor. In addition to your recommended resources, I also used the writingcheap.com service, which helped me with the theoretical part of my work of developing an analog-to-digital converter. Using the information of this site http://www.analog.com/en/products/analog-to-digital-converters.html I was able to summarize the results of my research. You have an extremely helpful channel for students on YouTube. You have an extremely helpful channel for students on YouTube.

I enlarged the image off the Amazon.com but could not read it https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-LCS1620-Lithium-battery/dp/B01M6TQPY2/ref=sr_1_3/141-0275392-4037060?ie=UTF8&qid=1499813460&sr=8-3&keywords=Black+%26+Decker+LCS1620 ...but ebay.com has a readable image http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Decker-LCS1620-20v-20-Volt-Lithum-Ion-Battery-Charger-NEW-/272090041874?epid=1640405275&hash=item3f59d48e12:g:mf8AAOSwawpXr3eh 120v @60hz 300ma

@Jeremy You may have 2 PCB's for AU$5 plus shipping in an envelope. Two boards weigh about 44grams. Email me if you would like some to: [email protected] Cheere, William PS. Seems your Kit has a problem to start with. Before I found this Forum I ordered two Banggood Kits. It is still not assembled and probably never will be. Anyway, over at this page there is a lengthy description on how to improve the Banggood kit. "www.paulvdiyblogs.net/2015/05/tuning-030v-dc-with-03a-psu-diy-kit.html"

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Hiya, I now cant find the projects I found yesterday sorry... but the below link is a device similar to what I'm looking for, but I'm looking to make this work in reverse (hoping this may help). The distance I'm trying to achieve would be for the alarm to activate if transmitter was anything from 0-10 feet away. http://www.pimall.com/nais/rdiftagalert.html

parts i have : antenna wire,magnetic wire,toroid core, 23 mhz crysrtal oscillator,some transistors ,resistors,capacitors.... i want to design circuit to simply on and off the led by radio waves. could u sugest me simple circuit with to do this.. plzz.thank you in adavance

Continued

http://www.metalstorm.com/

TOYOTA Car indicator flasher part number TOYOTA:81980-50030.

It is probably an Oriental 2SC828 transistor. Go to www.datasheetarchive.com to see its spec's and to see substitution guides.

BTY79 NTE Replacement BTY79-800R = NTE5531 BTY79-600R = NTE5529 BTY79-500R = NTE5529 BTY79-400R = NTE5527 NTE Datasheet http://www.nteinc.com/specs/5500to5599/pdf/nte5520_31.pdf C106D = NTE5457 NTE Datasheet http://www.nteinc.com/specs/5400to5499/pdf/nte5452_58.pdf Try these suppliers Digikey --- http://www.Digikey.com Mouser --- http://www.Mouser.com Newark --- http://www.newark.com MCM Electronics --- http://www.mcmelectronics.com

No, lead acid batteries are far too heavy. I was looking at maybe NiMH or more likely some LiPo batteries commonly used on RC cars and the like. Looking at 3-6AmpH class batteries. Might lean towards 12V, since there is so much standard stuff for that as far as wiring and other components. Safety is of course important and any good suggestions on grounding/shielding are welcome and appreciated.

Possibly a flyback converter? They can usually be output current limited by limiting the current availiable to the transformer. Do you need it to be highly efficient or are you not too fussed?

It could be used as a switch, amplifier or (as you've said) part of a current limiting circuit. Bipolar transistors have so many applications that it's impossible to tell you what it's doing from what you've said. For example if I asked you "I've seen a flat head screw; what's it holding together?", how could you know the answer? If you post a picture I might be able to tell you but even then the only way is to post a schematic.

after removing of ebook files, the page is not visited so much and not updated messages as before...

Here is all I have Playstation2_Repairguide.pdf

For the Mechanical one just go to the Junk Yard and get a Dimmer out of any car you like. for the others you can do a couple of things. Get a standard touch lamp from the store and remove the touch circuit and hook it up to the input of the transformer. or Copy the circuit with Reverse Engineering. Then hook it up to your Transformer plug side. Here are some circuits if you want to tinker. http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/page6.htm#dimmer.gif http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/page8.htm#touch.gif