Leaderboard

Hi all, Finally after some months have gone by, my build of the Power Supply is done. I have used liquibyte schematic Rev. 8 and had made the cirquit board according to the Gerber.zip file he posted here: 0-30V Stabilized Power Supply Page 88 posted October 6, 2014 "http://electronics-lab.com/community/index.php?/topic/29563-0-30v-stabilized-power-supply/&page=88" I left out D10 and R15 as per his description. I have plenty of boards leftover if someone has a need for it. There was only one mistake liquibyte made which have outlined in one of the pictures uploaded here. I was fortunate enough to get a big case with a Toroidal transformer from the scrapyard. Also many parts are recycled from various sources. Regards, William

Finally, my post with the Eagle .sch and .brd, full gerbers, and parts list for Digikey in a zip file. I'm also including many of the pics I took as I was building that were posted both before and after this post. I'm still not completely done and may add more pics later. One thing I have changed is the third transformer for the auxiliary circuitry for the temperature sensor and fans and the displays (I wanted a better transformer than the Radio Shack special I had on hand). Archive attached. 30V.zip

But even if we disable debug, it will call print method and do not print anything. I mean we should make it something like #ifdef DEBUG Serial.print("\n debug controlled print"); #endif Here when we disable macro, its like code is not written for compiler, code will be removed in macro processing itself.

An H-Bridge (Full-Bridge) driver is quite popular in driving loads such as brushed DC motors and it is widely used in robotics and industry. The main advantages of using an H-Bridge driver are: high efficiency, rotation direction change, and braking the motor. In this article/video, I have introduced a complete H-Bridge DC motor driver using four IR3205 power MOSFETs and two IR2104 MOSFET drivers. Theoretically, the above-mentioned MOSFET can handle currents up to 80A, however, in practice we can expect to get currents up to 40A if the MOSFET temperature is kept as low as possible, using a big heatsink or even a fan. References Article: https://www.pcbway.com/blog/technology/Powerful_H_Bridge_DC_Motor_Driver.html [1]: IRF3205 Datasheet: http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irf3205.pdf [2]: IR2104 Datasheet: https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-IR2104-DS-v01_00-EN.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a4015355c7c1c31671 [3]: 1N5819 Datasheet: https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/ds23001.pdf [4]: IR2104 Schematic Symbol, PCB Footprint, 3D Model: https://componentsearchengine.com/part-view/IR2104PBF/Infineon [5]: IRF3205 Schematic Symbol, PCB Footprint, 3D Model: https://componentsearchengine.com/part-view/IRF3205ZPBF/Infineon [6]: CAD Plugins: https://www.samacsys.com/library-loader-help

Thanks for sharing your project with us. Could you give more details on the control board?

The original circuit should work fine up to 15V at 1A if you replace the old opamps with the newer higher voltage ones. You probably should recalculate the resistors that set the maximum voltage and current outputs. If the Chinese kit uses the transistor that shorts the opamp output when the power is turned off then the resistors that feed the transistor need to be recalculated for the reduced voltage. I have used perforated stripboard for many projects including very complicated ones. The copper strips are cut to length with a drill-bit and become almost half the wiring of a pcb. The parts and a few short jumper wires become the remainder of the wiring. Only one wire is in each hole so changing a part is easy like on a pcb.

Hi, as promised I made an English translation of my working. Maybe there is few mistakes and I am sorry for that ! Good reading. ExplicationEN.pdf

So Finally which version of schematic is correct / flawless to build the PSU ?

February 23 above on this page has the latest schematic of the revised 3A lab power supply.

Does anyone has LM3914 pspice library? i desperately need it..pleeeeease!

I want to apply force for an extended amount of time (10 secs to a couple minutes) using a solenoid actuator. Unfortunately, it seems that solenoids use a lot of power when they are active. Is there a solenoid type that will only use power when switching between active and not active? There's probably a way I can do this with an external mechanism, but I was wondering if there may be commercial solenoids that have this built-in. Thanks, Jessica

Illegal content (ebook/magazines/software) will be deleted without any notice. Thanks

In a few circuit diagrams i have they refer to a what seems to me is a transistor with B C E as a overload protector and with number A16 and i have looked for a few hours on the net and i can't find anything on this little fellow, Anyone knows what I'm looking for and wanna share that info Please .... Come on !! 48 visits !! some one must know what it is !!! PNP is it also...........

At last i got a theori from a totally different place and he wasn't shure either but he had a weak memory that it could be 1A16 and a PNP transistor but after several deep searches on the I-net it didn't make any kind of senses whatsoever ???

When you use your resistive divider to drop the voltage down to 5 volts, you just need to select values of resistors to limit the current. This is basic ohm's law. V/R. Was this your question or did I misunderstand? I am not sure how you intend to monitor status by using one 5 volt pin. As an interface to the parallel port, you could use an LM3914. This would give you the resolution you need. There are also many other ways to proceed. You need to convert from analog to digital to read anything useful from the parallel port. MP

Hi TJBraza, http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/Data_Sheets/ADT7485A.pdf Although, it will probably require a small program written in C or Visual basic to convert the string MSB & LSB into a more easier read etc... Take a moment and review the data sheet, the IC has a lot of potential.

I can't find SL100 & SK100 transistor :'( Which transistors can replace these? Thank you for your help~ ;)

Calm down people. It is not Mixos's fault, if it is against the law he has to remove the content. This site is very good for asking electronic related questions, I have yet to find a better one.

If you look in the IDE at [tools] -> boards you will see the Nano and the Duemilanove. You will not see the port listed until you select the board and have a board or adapter connected. The Meg2560 has a different AVR microcontroller; an ATmega2560. If you search on Youtube for the FT232RL (the USB to serial/TTL Adapter) you will find numerous videos. Speaking of ports, the current port is shown in the IDE in [Tools] also in the Preferences file. The Preferences file can be found [file] -> Preferences. That brings up a pop up window containing the path to the file. Near the bottom of the file can be seen the comport listed in two places. Also in the Device Manager it is listed under Ports(COM & LPT). Device Manager is via [Windows] + [x]. Sometimes you can edit the Preferences file to bring the comport inline with the device port iIf the IDE gets confused. You may know this but others may not. (I screwed up the fonts by cut and past again)

Introduction ---------------- Hi Friends, I am a newcomer. I try to make 750w DC 24V DC motor speed control. At my project i use TL494 ( ka7500) for control the motor, the current increase by 3 mosfet IRF75n75 ( IFR3205) you can use the biger mosfet for get big power. At this video i show you how to i make it. I don't have the big motor so i use 288W 24V 775 motor for test. You can see the result on my video. The circuit run very well. The total cost of the project is around $10 - $15. Step 1 Hardware Requirement You can see all of my project but i will show again Step 2 Make the PCB You can make the PCB use iron method. I have post the Shematic and PCB file. Please download bellow. Or you can order PCB online like me, i order PCB online from JLCPCB.COM. Their price is very low only 2$/10PCB with high quality. I order PCB from their lot of time. You can try. Look the PCB i had order, what do you think about that ? Step 3 Make the PCB The Schematic and layout file. you can download PDF file below and make it at home by yourself. Step 3 Finsh and Get Big Motor Controler I am a newcomer and this is the fist time i post on this forums. If i have any mistake please comment below i will try to fix in the next project. I want to share you all of thing i know. If you have any question for my project, please comment below i will help you. You can find more project about electrical on my youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/LongTechnical Thank you very much 750W_DC_Motor_Controller_TOP PCB.pdf 750W_DC_Motor_Controller_SCH.pdf 750W_DC_Motor_Controller_PCB.pdf

Hi dear community, i have a problem to install p-spice. i downloaded the file frome here "p-spice 9.1 student version" . i extraced 18 files in c:\desktop. following the manuals i have to double click setup.exe with admin rights. thats what i did but window doesn t appear. i looked in taskmanger, the setup.exe is running but like i said the window doesen t appear. i have really no idea what i am doing wrong system is Vista need help thankfully elu

If you compare your board with the one on Ebay that one looks like the better board. You may gain some insight by comparing the P6? on your board with the three in the schematic and see if it connects the same as one of them. This is the schematic of the Viber12a in a battery charger.

There is information here on Visual Servoing that maybe helpful; particularly the numerous references at the end of the article. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visual_servoing If you look at a bmp file of a smd image like this one (I could not find an image of the bottom of a smd). You can see the white background as FF FF FF and one scan line across the component highlighted. So in theory one could find the four corners and calculated the rotation and any x y offset. In bmp files the image is inverted. If you only need the rotation then only part of one edge would be required to calculate it I believe. smd compoint.bmp

The board is made very precisely, it's clean and very pleasant to touch. Markings on the silkscreen layer are very good readable. Soldering does not cause trouble, tin adheres very well to soldering points with a small amount of flux. It is also worth mentioning that the PCB is very robust to desoldering. The company is very solid, although you order 10 pieces, you get at least 1 PCB more for test, prototype, present, etc. When I signed up for an account, I also got a $20 coupon for free. Excellent construction and assembly work done by PCBgogo.No problems encountered, highly recommended.

Did you know that Chinese companies (ebay, Aliexpress, Banggood, Amazon and others) have copied the original defective Greek kit and used the wrong opamps and resistors that burn up? Their kits of the original project are very cheap. They use some Oriental transistors instead of the original ones.

The 24VAC transformer has an output voltage too low for this power supply to produce 30VDC at 3A. The regulation will fail and there will be lots of ripple in the output at and above about 25V at 3A. I recommended a 28VAC or 30VAC transformer and higher voltage opamps years ago. For an output up to 5A then the transformer max output current should be 7A or more, the main filter capacitor C1 value should be about 17000uF or more, there should be 3 output transistors each with its own emitter resistor, a larger heatsink for the output transistors and change the value of R7 from 0.47 ohms to 0.27 ohms. I finished making improvements on this project in July, 2014 but others have made more changes.

I am looking for the cheapest pcb manufacturer that i can. I have a project for a friend and OSH Park going to charge almost $900 for all the pcb's i need. Granted theres 3 copies of each board, but i cant do any thing with the other sets. Any help isappreciated. Thanks Joe

Good evening to everyone. Is it ok to use TIP 120 instead of TIP 122? Thanks in advance

Hi Everyone, In this tutorial I am going to show you how to charge a Lithium 18650 Cell using TP4056 chip utilizing the solar energy or simply the SUN. Wouldn’t it be really cool if you can charge your mobile phones battery using the sun instead of a USB charger. You can also use this project as a DIY portable power bank. The total cost of this project excluding the battery is just under $5. The battery will addup another $4 to $5 bucks. So the total cost of the project is some what around $10. All components are available on my website for sale for really good price, the link is in the description below. Step 1: Hardware Requirement For this project we need: - A 5v Solar Cell (make sure it is 5v and not anything less than that) - A general purpose circuit board - A 1N4007 High Voltage, High Current Rated Diode (for reverse voltage protection). This diode is rated at forward current of 1A with peak reverse voltage rating of 1000V. - Copper Wire - 2x PCB Screw Terminal Blocks - A 18650 Battery Holder - A 3.7V 18650 Battery - A TP4056 battery protection board (with or without the protection IC) - A 5 V power booster - Some connecting cables - and general soldering equipments Step 2: How the TP4056 Work Looking at this board we can see that it has the TP4056 chip along with few other components of our interest. There are two LEDs on board one red and one blue. The red one comes on when it is charging and the blue one comes on when the charging is done. Then there is this mini USB connector to charge the battery from an external USB charger. There are also these two points where you can solder your own charging unit. These points are marked as IN- and IN+ We will be utilizing these two point to power this board. The battery will be connected to these two point marked as BAT+ and BAT- (pretty mush self explanatory) The board requires an input voltage of 4.5 to 5.5v to charge the battery There are two versions of this board available in the market. One with battery discharge protection module and one without it. Both boards offer 1A charging current and then cut off when finished. Furthermore, the one with protection switches the load off when the battery voltage drops below 2.4V to protect the cell from running at too low (such as on a cloudy day) - and also protects against over-voltage and reverse polarity connection (it will usually destroy itself instead of the battery) however please check you have it connected correctly the first time. Step 3: Copper Legs These boards gets really hot so I will be soldering them a bit above the circuit board. To achieve this I am going to use a hard copper wire to make legs of the circuit board. I will then be sliding the unit on the legs and will solder them all together. I will put 4 copper wires to make 4 legs of this circuit board. You can also use - Male Breakable Pin Headers instead of the copper wire to achieve this. Step 4: Assembly The assembly is very simple. The solar cell is connected to the TP4056 battery charging board's IN+ and IN- respectively. A diode is inserted at the positive end for the reverse voltage protection. Then the BAT+ and BAT- of the board is connected to the +ve and -ve ends of the battery. (That all we need for charging the battery). Now to power an Arduino board we need to boost up the output to 5v. So, we are adding a 5v voltage booster to this circuit. Connect the -ve end of the battery to the IN- of the booster and +ve to IN+ by adding a switch in between. OK, now lets have a look at what I have made. - I have connected the booster board straight to the charger however I will recommend putting a SPDT switch there. So when the device is charging the battery its only charging and not getting used Solar cells are connected to the input of the lithium battery charger (TP4056), whose output is connected to the 18560 lithium battery. A 5V step-up voltage booster is also connected to the battery and is used to convert from 3.7V dc to 5V dc. Charging voltage is typically around 4.2V. Voltage booster's input ranges from 0.9 to 5.0V. So it will see around 3.7V at it's input when the battery is discharging, and 4.2V when it's recharging. The output of the booster to the rest of the circuit will keep it's 5V value. Step 5: Testing This project will be very helpful to power a remote data logger. As we know, the power supply is always a problem for a remote logger and most of the times there is no power outlet available. A situation like that forces you to use some batteries to power your circuit. But eventually, the battery will die. Question is do you want to go there and charge the battery? Our inexpensive solar charger project will be an excellent solution for a situation like this to power an Arduino board. This project can also solve the efficiency issue of Arduino when in sleep. Sleep saves battery, however, the sensors and power regulators (7805) will still consume battery in idle mode draining the battery. By charging the battery as we use it, we can solve our problem. Thanks again for watching this video! I hope it helps you. If you want to support me, you can subscribe to my channel and watch my other videos. Thanks, ca again in my next video. TP4056.pdf

Impressive. It is not easy to charge the 150ah battery with solar panel directly. For proper charging using solar panel you just need to use a solar charge controller. You must also place the batteries in parallel connection for fast charge. Using solar charge controller avoid reverse current flow from Battery to a solar panel and unharmed pannels from burning. For proper charging your solar panel must create power more than 150w 150w is the threshold point for your charging. More the power added ……charging rate improve.

A power supply is an electronic device which supplies electric energy to an electrical load. Can anyone tell me what is the minimum power required 1 ton AC.

You ask for a lot! Start with Ebay.com for transmitters and receivers: see: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-88-108MHz-FM-Transmitter-Module-Wireless-Microphone-Dictagraph-Interceptor/141659602950?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D40832%26meid%3D5caec1e4bbe74e2fa065b6379434198a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D111649741072

http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/SolarLight/SolarCharger-2.html

I am trying to make this KITT's dash compass andi have the leds and using a microcontroller to power them but need help on how to wire them so i use the least amount of conponents possable. I thought of darlington transistor ic's but on the 4 10 led bargraph onesi think both anode n cathode will need darlington transistors. 4 1 for either common cathode or anode and 10 more for the other lead for make the patterns. I might be able to use 1 darlington transistor ic to make the yellow triangle leds work using just 4 i/o pins, but i think i need 14 for the red bargraps whats the best way to wire the bargraph leds up? Thanks. Joe

1) The first opamp is inverting with such a low input resistance of 1k ohms that it kills most of the signal from the higher resistance electret microphone. This opamp should be non-inverting with a much higher input resistance. 2) The coupling capacitor C4 between the opamps couples positive and negative AC to the input of the second opamp. But the maximum allowed negative input voltage is only -0.3V so the much higher negative part of the signal will probably damage the input. 3) The entire output current of the second opamp slams into the bases of the transistors without any current limiting that overloads the opamp and might damage the bases of the transistors.

Your main filter capacitor value is much too low for an output of 10A. use at least 20,000uF. The transformer voltage is too high for a maximum output voltage of only 20V and its current rating is much too low. The poor little BD139 driver transistor will smoke and die if you are unlucky to find those very old output transistors with low current gain. Q1 is completely wrong. Its maximum allowed reverse bias on its base-emitter is only 5V.

The TIP41 has an fT of only 3MHz so it is slow and its delays will probably cause the output amplifier to oscillate and have transient problems. The BD139 that should be used is very fast with an fT of 190MHz. The hFE is not important because the minimum hFE of one of the two 2N3055 output transistors at 1.5A is 41 then the collector current of the BD139 must be a maximum of only (1.5A/41) x 2= 73mA where its minimum hFE is about 70 so the maximum output from opamp U2 must be only 73mA/70= 1mA but the minimum output from a TLE2141 opamp is much more at 20 so there is plenty of hFE available.

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TOYOTA Car indicator flasher part number TOYOTA:81980-50030.

nice old fashioned work is it dangerous to touch the fling electrons ????

A transformer will deliver a high enough voltage that you want. High voltage transformers are expensive, but can usually be found in electronics products no longer used, and be cascaded for high voltgage. Be aware that high voltage burns and shock can occur, and a high enough voltage can lay you in the hospital.

Possibly a flyback converter? They can usually be output current limited by limiting the current availiable to the transformer. Do you need it to be highly efficient or are you not too fussed?

[i would not encourage children to develop high tech weaponry and would firmly discourage them from using them on themselves or others.] I saw a project online once that took a page from the XREF taser shotgun rounds, concept. It used pressurized air to propel a charged disposable camera capacitor, prongs first out of a simple barrel. Interesting concept, though from what I read, the 330V would be far to little to achieve the taser effect. That and I understand a specific waveform is needed to affect strictly skeletal muscle and not cardiac muscle. Seems like a safety concern to me.

so let me get this right. Theres a slight power difference in one Tda2003 to another even though there the same. but with a 8pin dual amp would work better cause there together in one IC.

Hello RFamateur and welcome to the form. Here are a few. These have stuff some good lot outdated. http://www.goldmine-elec.com/default.htm http://unicornelectronics.com/prod.htm http://www.mpja.com/category/LEDs/LEDs.asp http://www.futurlec.com/index.shtml http://www.allelectronics.com/ http://www.danssmallpartsandkits.net/ http://www.alltronics.com/assortments.htm These are good suppliers http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=home http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Pages/index.aspx http://www.web-tronics.com/ http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&langId=-1 That should get you going. gogo

Pin 8 of the IC should be 5.0V which is the output of the 78L05 voltage regulator or the 6V battery voltage. If you use the voltage regulator and D1 in series with it, then the minimum input voltage is 8.2V. Don't use a 9V battery because its voltage quickly falls lower. The micromitter has an attenuator of 3 resistors at its output to reduce its range. Remove the attenuator for much greater range.

Hi Gruber, The current-setting pot in this project has a tolerance of 20% and the values of the resistors were chosen so it provides 3A if the pot's resistance is 20% high. If your pot's resistance is 20% low then with it set to max, the project will try to produce 4.2A. Such a high current will overload the transformer and cause its core to saturate. A transformer with a saturated core isn't a transformer anymore, it is a piece of wire across the mains, blowing fuses. You should add a trimpot in series with the current-setting pot. Adjust the trimpot so the project supplies a max of exactly 3A when the current-setting pot is at max.

R16 is 1K and is OK ???