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gogo2520

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Posts posted by gogo2520

  1. Thanks Guys
        I'm not real good at building power supplies, mine are pretty simple. When I need a good large one I would use a prebuilt by someone who has the right stuff to do it with.
        I think this fall I am actually going to break down and invest in a oscilloscope and study power supplies along with a lot of stuff.  The reason is because I am getting ready to retire and am going to need something to keep me busy, so why not a hobby I enjoy.
      When I see something I don't understand I tend to ask questions and I might be a little crude about it. Sorry about that.

        Yes Hero999 if you don't mind please your schematic for the center tap power supply.
                                        thanks again
                                            gogo

  2. Sorry
     I don't know were the 18 volts came from the original post shows a 12 volt input. I figured he would use a 12 volt transformer  to start with and then use the regulator to lower it. And that would of been (12 - 1) x 1.5 = 16.5W
    ( 4 degrees x 16.5) + 30 degrees = 96, well under the max allowed temperature. Ya but still hot.
                        gogo                  

  3. Hello thavamaran

      Lot of what you want to do depends on what you want the robot to do. Electric motors will run a lot of things the trick is to get them to stop when you want them to. Most robots use stepper motors or servos because they can be controlled better.
        Pic microcontrollers  can be programed to do a lot of things but there outputs can only handle about 25ma so controlling a electric motor by itself is not going to happen, you would need some kind of driver for what ever motor you use.
                                                          gogo

  4. Hello green1706

       I do not understand what the problem is. You have a LCD monitor connected to what. and what is the monitor is powered?
      Is this a computer monitor with a software setting problem?
                                   gogo

  5. Hello leo
        Here is a good discription of relays
    http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/relay.htm

    Are you talking about double through to single through or do you want to use the relay for high voltage transformer stuff.

  6. Hello RumbaKing

      I made one to with the same problem and I think it is because at the time I made it  I didn't have the right resisters. I used 5% instead of 1%. Maybe next time I go on a buying frenzy I'll stock up on 1% resistors.
                                                                            gogo

  7. hello Fowkc

        Hey guy if you just want to see how it works you don't need all this stuff. To etch one board, first is the transfer of the image to the board, once you have that any tank that the board will fit into will do. Hot water from a kitchen sink and a plastic bowl will work. Ferric Chloride dose good at 32C% or 100F%(same I think).
        When I did my first one  I bought a kit for about 14.00 dallors U.S. I got all the stuff ready and put on some plastic gloves and went to work. First thing I did is prewarm the Ferric Chloride in a double bath (plastic bowl inside a plastic bowl) hot water from the sink.
        Then the board went in, one hand on the inside bowl and rocked it back it back and forth, I could see the stuff work but I though it would happen faster. No it took 15 minutes, but it worked and I didn't need to buy all that stuff. It was my first board and it looks good.
      Oh I use press_on transfers that came with the kit.
            I now have a tank set up with the heater and air pump, works much faster, and use a laser iron-on
    transfer. (office gloss paper).
            After of about two months of reading and another month of planning  I tryed this, I could do it, and now I make my own double sided boards. COOL.
                                              Have fun
                                                gogo

  8. Hello charcoaldabs2

      Sounds like you did good with the heat gun. My first time I tried to recyle parts from printer boards I tried using a propaine torch. Not a good idea, by the time I got done there wasn't much to do but get a garbage bag out.
        Now I use a soldering iron with a sucker pump on it, Got that at radio shack, works great on ic's and only cost about 15 bucks. Spring loaded solder suckers work but not very fast.
                                                                      have fun
                                                                      gogo           

  9. Hello

      If you don't have a laser printer, I think the easy way would be to print it out on a inkjet then have it copied with a laser copy machine using office gloss paper.. Inkjet ink is water base and will desolve in water.
                                          have fun
                                          gogo

  10. hello vkssingh

      I look at that kit too, the values they used didn't work with my set up. I built it on a breadboard. Got it to work, I have mine set at 200 volts for now, when I tried to set it for 30 volts I couldn't get a consistent reading.Breadboards are noisy lot of bad connections, lot of wire and stuff. I put about 10 10uF cabs on it, that seemed to help.
                                    it works just haven't peeked it out yet
                                    have fun
                                    gogo

  11. Hello
      It depends on the relay on how much voltage and curent you need I sometimes use electronic relays that can be triggerd by 3 volts, not sure how many Mamp's but the Pic supplies enough and the relay can handle 220V at 20amps. A driving transistor works and some will say opto's will do the job too. I guess it all depends on what parts you plan on using.
                                                      have fun
                                                      gogo 

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