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rybitski
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Posts posted by rybitski
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I really like the design of the switch you sent me, but I'm thinking I could make something like it myself. A reed switch was suggested earlier, but I wasn't thinking how easily it would be to seal it in a waterproof case. I think I could seal it in hobby resin, or even a big glob of hot glue. Put a magnent on a float inside the pipe and cover the bottom end om the pipe with a mesh or something so that water gets in but the float doesn't fall out.
I'll be thinking on this more... Thank you MP! -
the mains are now where near the pool, 20 feet or so away, and they are already gfic equiped. The only live wires would be the two wires carying the 12vdc.
When you say propper finish, what do you mean? What finish can you put on metal to keep them from coroding and still be conductive?
come to think of it it would be a very good idea to take it out of the water while you were swimming so it doesn't cause it to go on and off all the time...
I came up with the idea to hinge the sensor aparatus... here is a picture:
I'm sorry this is project is kind of random in the way that I continue changing the design... I guess I'm still in the brainstorming process.
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Updated float switch:
Reed switches and whatnot still aren't water proof so I came up with this design. nothing has to be submerged.
Idea:(look at picture)
switch is off when depressed and on when not depressed.
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Sorry for the confusion, I'm not going with the metal rods anymore, was just an idea. They would eventualy corrode to the point where it was polluting the water and live current in a swimming pool just doesn't sound appealing...
My previous post shows the updated idea. using a switch I wouldn't need to use the transistors, right? -
Thank You for your input, but I have a question. Why would you need2 transistors, why not just one? why do you need them in the first place? I understand what a transistor does, but I don't understand why I need one for this project. Please explain.
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very true about the corosion...
Where would you get a mercury tilt switch or a magnetic switch? How much would either be? -
would it hurt anything if I were to just use 2 metal rods so that when the water got high enough the 12vdc flows from one electrode through the water to the other? 12vdc isn't enough to hurt anyone any way as long as it is at a low amperage, right?
it would look something like this, but it would still be encased in the pipe to keep the waves away.
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A mercury tilt switch like in an old thermostat? I don't think that would work because if it is colder then it would take a higher water level to turn it on, or reverse if it is hotter. that would be good if the mercury didn't change with temperature changes.
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Thank you.
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A 'float switch' isn't exactly what I am looking for/need. From what I can tell float switches are for turning on pumps when you have 2 feet+ of unwanted water. I need a switch that turns on/off with 4-6 inch precision.
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I really like your pvc case...
When my destination imagination team went to the destination imagination global finals people were throwing out all of this pvc, so we loaded it up into the school mini van and off we went... Until now Iwasn't really sure what we were going to do with it all...
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below I have attached a diagram of my idea.
When it rains my father's pool starts overflowing with water so he has to go out and hook up the sump pump and let it run for a while. Sometimes he forgets that it is running and he pumps too much water out. So my idea was to make a switch to turn the pump off.
The switchis going to have pvc around it to deflect the waves and keep the pump from turning on and off all the time. I need to know what wouln be the best switch to use. The switch will have to be water proof becasue it will more than likely get wet.
I also need to know of the best type of relay to use. The pump will reguire no more than 10-15 amps. I was thinking about using a solid state relay but those tend to be more expensive...
If you have any better ideas please let me know.
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A while back on hackaday and other sites things were poping up about computer controlled disco dance floors... More or less whole floors covered in light up squares containing leds.
Doing some research on google I found this site that actually sells the controll boards for these floors, possibly this could be used for your project. Here is the link:
http://www.dropoutdesign.com/products/ddf.html
The unassembled board is $35, but according to the site there is alot of soldering including surfacemount soldering... Come to think of it that site seems like a rip off...
Eh, sorry I'm not much help... good luck with this one... -
quite nifty!
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What did you use to make your stun glove?
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What exactly is a "gang operated airbrake"?
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is that a normal occurance for power switching stations?
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I should get around to buying a breadboard... After I placed my order on futurlec.com I saw they had them... Maybe I will borrow one from my physics teacher...
So it looks like all that is left for the parts to arrive and to start testing... Thank You for all of your help! I will keep you informed of my progress as soon as there is any...
Thank you. -
So I'm a little confused, here is how I think it should look...
I'm confused about where to connect pin 5, I am assuming that it connects to +5v, I don't know... Take a look and tell me what you think...
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Would something like this work? or am I missing something...
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I wish I knew what it said...
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I was thinking about getting one of these, but I have just changed my mind...
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Thank you for your time and responses!
I have ordered the 74LS90's an according to the site should be here in 1-2 weeks according to the site.
The counter part is designed, but I'm still not entirely sure how to make the imput part.
For everytime the IR beam is interupted the count should increase by one.
I will attach a diagram of what I need.
want mobile jammer circiut
in Electronics chit chat
Posted
http://www.cellantenna.com/CJAM/cjam_1000.htm
Co mercial cell phone jammer that james phones for a half mile radius, and any other wireless signal for that matter...