windoze killa

You don't need to use an AVR or PIC. There many many ADC and DAC chips on the market. Analog Devices has heaps that will do the job. Browse their site for datasheets.

Not sure about the legalities of these but it sounds fun.

Then keep them on a decent charger. They will be ready to use at all times.

You could also try using more IR LEDs to increase the amount of radiation.

Well I guess for a single battery purchase alkalines are cheaper. Most people don't consider the recharging advantages they just see the per item cost. Also the cost of the charger may put some people off. For example, here in Oz a packet of 10 Eveready Energiser AAs costs about $12. A packet of 4 NiMh AAs cost about $20. Face value says the pack of 10 is much better value.

Rechargables

Maybe he might like the one I used to work on. Powered an Air Traffic Control tower for 3 hours. Ok. Maybe a little large.

I think he means solenoid or more precise, a relay.

You could use a 3.3V regulator on the kit that runs off the 2 AAs. This way you could run them both from the 9V battery. If 3.3V is a bit much then you could also put a Schotky diode in series with the 3.3V supply.

In this case I would say there is definately a problem. I don't think this is a calibration problem either. I would say there is actually something wrong with it internally. There must be somewhere in your area that can repair it. I am in Australia so I can't recommend anyone.

I assume when you say formula you want to know what dimensions you need to use. If this is the case then you should consider the centre frquency that you want. To make things easy we will use 100Mhz which is close enough to the centre frequency. Now that we have 100Mhz as the frequency one full wave length at that frequency is 3 metres, so a half wave dipole will require 2 lengths of 1.5M. Most antennas for the FM band are made from 300ohm ribbon. You slice down the middle of one end 1.5M and spread them out horizontally. For it to work the best you need to make sure that it is perpendicular to the direction to the transmitting antenna. Hope this helps a bit.

I think you may have missunderstood my question. A CRO probe has an earth/GND lead on it. Sometimes when the probe doesn't have its GND lead connected to GND then there may be some spurious pick up at the tip. There could be a small GND point on the front of the CRO. Try connecting the GND lead to this point and see what occurs. This all assumes that you do actually have this GND lead (normally with an alligator clip on the end).

Silly question. But have you put your earth lead to a decent earth?

You are correct. They are very rare and also don't work all that well. But they are useful in confined spaces.

What do you mean by formula? Do you want a half wave or quater wave dipole?

Can you post a schematic of what you have. It is hard to understand what you are having problems with.

I don't think so as the glowing of the wire has nothing to do with current flow. It is purely resdidual heat from the previous firing. As the fuel is compressed the flash point of the fuel lowers and bang. To start a glow plug engine you need to apply a voltage to the plug. This is removed once it has started. The burning fuel keeps the wire glowing until the next cycle.

As I suggested try getting a colder plug. Most model stores that stock the engines should have a full range of plugs.

OUCH

Well to start with 200F is not all that hot. Not even boiling yet. Most semiconductor manufacturers make temperature sensor chips. For example an LM45 is a 3 pin device that we use here quite a bit. It is rated for -20C to 100C (212F). This is quite small but it is an SOT-23 style package which will probably not pass your food requirements. There are other devices that are similar that come in a TO 92 package that may suit your needs better. The LM45 has a linear 10mV per degree C output. Just need to feed this into a micro controller and write some code to suit (sorry , not my forte). Sorry I don't have time to do a schematic for you but I am sure if you have a look at some datasheets you should be able to work it out.

The only way I know of other than reducing compression is to buy a colder plug. Maybe try a weaker fuel.

Premece. Take your little oscillator, glue some sharp razor blades to it and place it where the sun don't shine.

I know this might seem a bit of a cop out but being a college project it should be you designing the circuit. And you are correct, it is a simple task. How about you start with a design and post it here and we will give it a go at improving it or fixing it.

It sounds a lot like a glow plug engine. Similar top those used in model planes and cars. I am not sure why you would want to limit the glowing of this as it is what ignites the fuel. Stop or reduce the glow and it may fail to work.

The current sensor I am using is an LEM LTS15. A little drift won't be to much of a problem so super stable designs aren't required. This is more of a confidence circuit.