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Posts posted by bobleny

  1. I got this kit not to long ago but haven't gotten the chance to monkey with it lately. :'(  It has some nice basic to intermediate concepts in there. It is a robot kit, which you find interesting.... There is also a deluxe robot but it is a bit more pricey.

    Deluxe - $90: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=C6762
    Standard - $60: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=C6890

    Other kits: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/departments.asp?dept=1059

    I would also highly recommend the 35 in 1 Deluxe Digital Exploration Kit. It has a lot of very good useful knowledge. It also comes with a lot of basic standard components. I have read through most of this kit and have learned an amazing amount of information from it!


    There bigger kits are a little expensive but you can't put a price on knowledge!

  2. Well, I usually only use it in my car where it sits right under the radio or in the passenger seat. Some times if its staticy I throw it in the back seat and it has less static, even though the antenna is on the hood... The radio is the original radio in the car, which is 22 years old... So, the radio is pretty old. I just want to play my Ipod through the car speaks. Is there any other way to do this? It doesn't have cassette or CD. I thought about taking the radio out and wiring a headphone plug in parallel with my radio, but I'd rather not do that.

    Any other ways?

  3. I have a stupid little thingy that plugs into the headphone jack of a CD player or similar device. When it's on, it picks up the output and transmits it to the 88.1, 88.5, 88.3 or 88.7 FM band. But it's always staticy! I don't know if it is the circuit of the device or maybe those channels?

    I thought if it is easy to modify an FM radio to transmit instead of receive, I would kill to deer with one arrow...

    I also like the idea of being able to tune into any frequency on the FM band but I don't know how all this works...

    Is this a bad idea???


  4. I was simply thinking about getting an industrial transformer to take my 120 and bring to about 10kV ;D. Then it would charge a couple of huge capacitors, like 100 farads so that voltage would only be pumped through if the wires are grounded.

    Then I would put a large 6ft fence around my property with every other barbed wire grounded. This way, if someone doesn't listen to the "Danger High Voltage", "Private Property Keep Out" and the "Caution Risk of Electric Shock" signs, ZZZZET! Ouch! lol I think they would look a little something like this: :o  lol

    I think if it was set up right, you could do this for you cattle as well. You might want to skip the whole 6ft barbed fence... The idea with the capacitors is that you would charge the capacitors so the fence is ready to unleash that power. It should be cheaper that way too because you don't have to send an electric pulse through it every few seconds.

  5. Yay! 555s....

    Provided that everything is correct and the only change you made was using a 100uf capacitor, then the circuit is oscillating at a different frequency. In this case, the capacitor will take much longer to charge and discharge. If you look at the light long enough, I wager it will turn off again and then turn back on. To fix this, replace it with a 10uf capacitor.

    If I did my math right, the LED should be on 10 times longer and off 10 times longer. So, if originally the LED was on for 1 minute, it will now be on for 10 minutes...

  6. The gates in an IC, such as the 4081, have a logic "low" of 0 volts, do they not?

    If this is the case, and a CMOS chip is nothing more than discrete components etched into a silicon chip, then what are the components in there?

    Also, if you look at reply #6 you will see a working drawing of a DRL AND gate. Problem is, it is mechanically operated. How do I use the output of a CMOS chip to control the DRL gate? Only way I can think of is to use a reed relay, but thats just stupid...

  7. Like Canada, U.S. also uses both ~220 and ~110. We use the 220 to power big stuff that need a lot of power such as a stove, water furnace, washer dryer, etc...

    In the U.S. we are charged by kilowatt hour. Which means, if we use the same amperage at 220, we will be charged a lot more! I would image that a device will be drawing the same amount of current at 110 or 220, provided that it can run at both voltages.

    So, the disadvantage to 220, is that it will most likely coast more, however, you can run more powerful toasters off of 220...

  8. The only reason I have yet to build this is because I don't know any 6Bit binary counters. When I looked it up online I got a whole lotta nothing. So, either they don't make 6Bit binary counters and a lot of people want them or they do make them. I don't know much about ICs, which makes it difficult to find any chip. I don't know what a 12 stage binary counter is? I found lots of stage binary counters... Thats why I was hoping someone with knowledge of binary counters, or ICs in general could help me find something applicable. It doesn't have to be a 6bit counter but it would be preferred.

    P.S. What on earth is, "arning"?????

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