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Kain

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Everything posted by Kain

  1. Hum, so he pretty much did what was thinking to do. I think after I transfer it to the aluminium I will use some transparent self-adhesive film to protect the image. Thanks tho :)
  2. Yup. It looks exactly like a regular capacitor but with one more rectangle drawn in between the plates. I posted picture too but for some reason it doesn't appear ???. It was gif as well - should be supported huh
  3. My guess is that this is the quartz crystal. Those are used in any generators since they provide high signal stability and acuracy (if the crystal is good though ;D). The remote control in this case would work on the fundamental frequency or on certain harmonic (in your case it's probably working on the fundamental one). This is the only thing I can think about that fits the description especially in radio control. ::)
  4. I this is a little bit off topic but I want to do nice front pannel for the PSU and I wonder how I can project some writting on alumunium pannel... I was thinking of doing it in the same way as some of us do the PCB - tonner transfer. However, if I do so I don't know how strong the layer would be and if i won't loose it soon. Maybe I can apply some protective layer too ???? Any ideas?
  5. This is a little off topic but I was considering modding few PS 2 and other consoles myself. I wonder how high is the actual risk to permanently mess up the console hardware with this modification in case something goes wrong with the programming? Ani ideas?
  6. Yes, Protel does have simulation - I would say a lot of tools for simulation but I'm not that familiar with them yet. About what it can do - it is a kind of standard EE CAD i think for it has most important simulations integrated, manual or auto-routing for PCB with support up to 16 layers, schematic capture too. I also heard that it can interract with Orcad files and so on... - really lots of functions. I'm not even talking about Protel DXP and the new upgrade for it - Protel 2004 which is obviously too advanced for hobby not to mention the price.... ;D. Protel supports direct programming to manifacturing tools as well which I doubt non-professionals would use any sooner... I have Protel 99 SE SP6 myself and I have mixed feelings - it's a bit complicated for sure especially when one has no experience in CAD. At least I'm comfortable with the lib already ;D. Here is the link for you guys if you care about more info. I would care about PDF files more tho :) http://www.protel.com/
  7. It seems like I'll be trying this eagle pretty soon ;D. As for protel it's not really that bad with the lib once you get used to it. I personally got a pdf manual for it and it had lots of stuff explained. The only thing I don't know how to do is force the daarn thing to do PCB in one layer only ::). Actually I do know how to, but the auto-router crosses some tracks usually and marks them and then I have to manually edit the PCB and add the bridge pads myself....which sux. I'm sure I fail to configure all the rules appropriately tho.... Any ideas about how to fix this? Oh and by the way, I'll be getting to test Orcad. Any oppinions? ;D
  8. Hello. I've been playing arround with electronics and of course with time circuits get more and more difficult and boards become hard to route by hand. So the first thing I heard about software wise was Protel 98 since my friend was using it and he said it's good. I also noticed it has lots of tools as well as auto-routing and simulation. Now I'm using Protel 99 SE Service pack 6 and it does it's job well; however I'm still not very clear on some options, not to mention it has tons of options ;D. However, my question is what kind of software have you guys used and currently use for PCB designing and what is your experience with it - good, dissapointing....? Oh, and any experienced users of Protel 99 SE here? I might need some help ;D
  9. True, I noticed that the sheme I was reffering to actually does have voltage devider. Hopefully I didn't blow up the thingy ;D.
  10. Ok, now I got one of those digital meters but the either the description is not enough or the unit is not working, or I'm missing something... I put it on my test board and wired the thing with 9V battery is the way shown there. As far as I know the decimal point does not affect the range of measuring - the unit should still show the value without the decimal point. Good, but when I try to measure 3V battery and it goes all crazy and out of scale. I assume the unit uses the chip 7101 and I was looking at the schematic posted on this site realised with the same chip. They use resistors to switch ranges. Hum, am I missing something? This is copy of the description. ::)
  11. Well, I am aware of this fact anyways. I was thinking to add one more transformer with simple zenner stabilizator and filtering capacitor with high enough value. I saw low power transformers that are small in size and cost no more than 2$. Good option?
  12. Good thing. I'm going to buy one today and see what it can do. Costs only 5$ - one meal (i need to loose 5kg anyways ;D). The only thing that bugs me is that it's made in korea, so hopefully I won't have to decrypt hangul ::)
  13. Well I'll need to dig a bit more into this I guess... Ante, can you recommend a good article on digital V and A meters? Reference scheme of some type will be good too if possible ::). Thanks btw
  14. Well I wouldn't mind digital either I guess. However, digital V meter is not a problem to get - I found them in a local electronics store for 5$ each. The problem comes with A meter for the ones I found actually can be used for this by changing the pin configuration (I think I saw this modules actually discussed in this forum), but it will work only for mA, and as we all know this PS goes all the way to 3A... I haven't really payed attention too much on how digital A meters work (besides I know it analogic/digital converter). However I have broken quite few cheap multimeters in the past ;D and I saw one common thing in them all - there is a power bridge which is some resistor with small value but high power rating to handle 10A if the multimiter supports it. I might be wront though - as I said I haven't dig in too much onto measuring devices. If I'm correct though those units will need something additional to measure A. Any ideas?
  15. Hello, I'm new in this forum but I built this PS with no real headache. Actually I built 2 separated boards (2 PS) for my project is to build dual lab PS. They both worked right away. The only thing I noticed is that R2 heats way too much for it's rating so I changed it to .5W of the same value and now everything is fine (seems fine :) ). Now to my question. I want to put a voltmeter and Ampermeter - analog ones, but i noticed they are expensive. I checked few stores as well as online ones but same result - they are expensive. However, I saw AC ones that were fairly cheap and in the exact range I need, so my question is is there some way to compensate those AC ones in order to make them work (acurately) for DC? Of course if you know some store where I can buy the DC ones for cheap it will be even better ;D
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