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Everything posted by Dazza

  1. Yes Ante I think a shutdown sensor will do the job. No I don't have an oscilloscope, that is a little bit to technical for me at this stage. The mosfet that I'm using is (MTP3055E). I don't have any way of measuring the heat so I guess I might add a bigger heat sink, and let it run at fall power. I guess if I get a lot of smoke, its not working so good ;D. I decided to construct another PWM, so I could compare the performance with the first one. Well this didn't goes so well. This was my first attempt at a circuit using only the schematics. I found a circuit using the(LM556N) and decided to try to modify it, to use two 555 timers. Well I have discovered. I hate PCB software, I hate printers, and it would be handy to have hair on top to pull out. Maybe you can see where I went wrong :'(. Sorry it's a bit rough, my computer skills in this area are very poor LM556M.zip
  2. Yes that coffee additive does the job Ante 8). I feel I'm over the worst of the flu now. I had to do some rethinking of my overall design after finding this ( http://www.hasslberger.com/tecno/hydrogen.html) I have heard of this inventor, and try to find information on his invention many times. I think the design plans are there to be a bit misleading. All the important bits have been left out. The first floor that I noticed was the steel tube entering the water chamber, it would have to be made of nonconductive material for the separation of oxygen and hydrogen to work. If someone was to construct this design with little knowledge of what is going on, they would find themselves in real trouble. You have to wonder if this isn't the idea, negative publicity to discourage people from trying. Yes the residual voltage is a problem, if for any reason power is left to the device with the engine switched off , or even while I am experimenting with it, that could be a bit risky. Well not that I'm completely abandoning my original design, for that I will probably need the electrodes to switch, two or three times a second. Although having the ability of varying this would be handy. The design I am going to experiment with first, is going to be much like (carl Cella) design. This is going to make the delivery system, of the hydrogen (pure hydrogen with no oxygen) much easier. And the production and flushing system more difficult. I could probably just use relays for switching of polarities for this system, although I would still like to construct the H Bridge as I still may need it. I have attached a short clip of the experiment I done today (I hope it works) . The MOSFETs got very hot very quickly at around 8A, so it maybe a case of what you mentioned, some designs of PWM are better than others. Maybe I should try another design of PWM. [attachment deleted by admin]
  3. Sorry Ante I gave you the wrong Web address ::), this is the one I was referring to (http://www.armory.com/~rstevew/Public/Motors/H-Bridges/Blanchard/nch-brdg.htm) I've been battling the flu for the last few days, I'm not really with it :P. I'm glad you're wanting more information, I was getting worried that I might be becoming a pest. But for tonight I need to put my head on a pillow. ;D
  4. The on-off point. When I reduce the power to the minimum I still had power to the electrodes. This was something like less then one volt. I was thinking a transistor at the base of the MOSFETs and a trim port at the base of the transistor. So when I increase the power to the electrodes as normal, power to the MOSFETs would only start when the transistor was turned on, and the trim port at the base of the transistor could be adjusted to give me the on-off point. Yes the H-Bridge looks like the way to do it, although the P channel MOSFETs are a little hard for me to get hold of. I found a H-Bridge on the net that used only N channel MOSFETs (http://www.armory.com/~rstevew/Public/Motors/H-Bridges/Blanchard/h-bridge.htm) it looks a little complicated especially with having to have the voltage Doubler. The ICL7662 is the only component I am unable to get hold of. Do you know of another voltage Doubler circuit that I can use for this. I will also have to incorporate a circuit that will continuously switch the H Bridge forward and reverse. I have a circuit that is use for model railway for switching two LEDs on and off, a flip-flop. Do you think a flip-flop would be a good way of doing this, or is there another way it should be done. Thanks Ante. ;D
  5. Thanks again for your reply Ante. I built the first circuit the one with the multiple MOSFETs. It worked very well with a single MOSFETs and a small load. I'll add another MOSFETs and test it to its maximum in the next couple of days. The MOSFETs that was available to me that seem to suit this application, in other words a bit of guesswork, is a (MTP3055E). I am unsure if the value of the resistor is correct to its Gates or even if this is what I should be using. I have attached the datasheet. I have an idea to add a transistor immediately before the 330 resistors and a trimport at the transistors Gates, to give me a start stop point. Could you suggests a suitable transistor and the value of the trim port, if this will work. Yes a fuse would be a very good idea. I don't want everything going up in smoke, these things can be overlooked. Yes it is possible to separate the oxygen from the hydrogen, this would make things very complicated. The distance between the hydrogen oxygen being produced, and passed the Carby butterfly valve then where it will be safe. Is very small as well as in volume, if it was to ignite the majority of the explosion would be directed to the intake of the engine. A relief valves can be used as a safety precaution two direct it away safely. I have an idea to stop the buildup on the electrodes. If I can continuously switch the power to the electrodes positive two negative this will keep them clean. do you have any ideas on how I can do this. DS56356.pdf
  6. I may have a solution. the scientific name for it is (throwrocksrunfast) ;D. Maybe a camera flash, if you could in case the flash unit in mirrors to direct it to the focus lens, as is used for the laser. Of course you would need to make it flash rapidly, or use multiple flash units and make them flash one after the other. This would probably be a real pain to put together. Just an idea. Maybe you'll need several lasers to intensify the beam.
  7. I have attached the ICL 7106 LCD datasheet, it also has the ICL 7107 LED. I hope the attachment works. There is also a project on electronic lad (shttp://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/test/007/index.html) for an LED voltmeter using this IC (http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php?board=2;action=display;threadid=119).and a discussion on it. I can't Help you anymore with this as I have only been learning electronics for a while. I'm sure someone else will help you out. fn3082_2.pdf
  8. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me Ante. You have help me fill in some gaps in my understanding of these things. I have found quite a few PWM projects on the net, and have spent some time trying to understand how they work, I seem to be getting a grasp on it. I found two projects that seem to be a good starting point for experimenting with (http://www3.telus.net/chemelec/Projects/PWM/PWM.htm ) (http://casemods.pointofnoreturn.org/pwm/circuit2.html ) I have some ideas of modifications however selecting the right components and values will be a bit of a guessing game for me. If I can be a pest, and ask if you would be kind enough to have a look at the schematics and see what you think. I will only need around 20A for experimenting with the 3.5 hp engine. My plan has always been to use three separate units for producing hydrogen each around 20A. The reason for this, two of the units will be in constant use and the third will automatically service itself. I think there will always be deterioration of the electrodes regardless of the material being used, and a buildup of gunk for lack of a better word, due to impurities in the solution. There is going to be lots of work involved in developing this system properly. I may need to monitor hydrogen production, maybe an oxygen sensor as these are already use in fuel injection vehicles. Yes hydrogen and oxygen is being produced two parts hydrogen one part oxygen as I am to understand. In measuring the oxygen I can then calculate the hydrogen production. I will also have to measure the conductivity of the solution and this will have to be maintained. I also have an idea on the system to achieve this. also the temperature will need to be maintained. I'm not the sort of person that get an idea and goes into it without looking at the big picture. The hardest part for me is going to be the electronic side of things. hopefully the good people of electronic lads will be able to help me. Thanks again Ante.
  9. I didn't know what PWM was. so I done a google search,for the applications it is being used for it seems like the way to go. Do you know of good schematics for my application. So basically it turns the power on and off the faster the switching the more current it provides?. What happens when the current is reduced to a minimum, is the switching duration still very fast. I don't want irregular flow of hydrogen at idle. Yes I think it will be a good idea to use a battery with the isolated alternator, keep it simple . I was just worried about the stress on the battery in drawing so much current as well as the bulkiness of adding an extra battery. There will be some lag but I think I can compensate for this with the Carby pump. My first test engine will be a 3 and 1/2 hp 4 stroke lawnmower engine. The ignition will have to be modified so it can be varied. A Turbocharged engine would be risky. All so I will have problems with using a car alternator for the fact that it will need to draw current to charge the electromagnets. I think this will stop my little 3 and 1/2 hp engine in its tracks. Maybe you could help me out with a way of modifying a DC brush motor with permanent magnets as a alternator, generator. It wouldn't need to produce as much current as I am using a small test engine. they use this sort of thing in drag cars. Yes a knock sensor would be a good idea. but for now I think a little trial and error will be needed. Yes the only Safeway, immediate combustion. Storage is a road that I'm not willing to go down. That's where the Hindenburg is burning. The reason why why power supply only put out 19v, I used a recycled transformer from and old stereo, it has a 11v output and a 16v output I just used the 16v. You said that the battery acts as the storage device (capacitor). If I was to disconnect the battery with the engine running, everything will function as normal, as the power will be drawn directly from the alternator. The old-style generators which use to be used would put out a steady voltage,current to keep the battery in a high State of charge. Does this sound right. (alternator AC current) wears its converted to DC through what is known as the diode pack and then the regulator. (the old generator) I am not sure of the difference?
  10. Thanks for your reply Ante. My idea of using existing battery for start-up. When the ignition is switched to the on position, it will connect to the storage device to charge it as well as disengage the relay to the starter motor. And when the unit is fully charged disconnect and reconnect the starter motor. Yes I thought of using the alternator for the control. I don't feel this is going to be reliably accurate enough for the air fuel mixture. As I can increase the production of hydrogen this must evenly vary between zero to the maximum. I can then reduce the fuel, gasoline, petrol accordingly. Ultimately eliminate the need for the petrol. I also have to know the combustible nature of this mixture, to be able to adjust the ignition timing correctly, as well as vacuum advance and also mechanical centrifugal advance. Now I am a little confused about the voltage amps. With my experiments, I used the 0-30 VDC STABILIZED POWER SUPPLY WITH CURRENT CONTROL. that I built from electronic labs. It has a maximum voltage of 19V. With my hydrogen experiment, I achieved 3.20A. I used two metal plates fixed close together submerged in a salt water solution. I set the voltage to maximum and used the current control to increase or decrease the reaction. So when I was at maximum current my voltage dropped down to about 7 V. So with the 12v system of a car if you start turning on headlights air conditioning etc, the voltage stays the same but the amps increase. I don't really understand why, when I set my voltage at say 12v with my power supply, the voltage will drop according to the varying load. Also I don't think the voltage really matters as long as I can increase and decrease the reaction. I hope you can make sense of what I am trying to do.
  11. I need a circuit that will allow me to continuously very the output current with a potentiometer. I needed it to be able to. Limit the maximum current. Be very reliable. Run continuously at maximum current. The current value must be in the same position on the potentiometer when continuously adjusted. It has to respond very fast. When shutdown no power to output.(very important) This is for my experiments with hydrogen power combustion engines. I will have 12v to 60A power supply from the alternator. this will be an isolated alternator from the existing electrics. Will I need to use a battery, or can I set some think up with capacitors. because I will need an additional charge before the engine is started for a period of time say 7seconds approximately 12V 10A. which could be charged from the existing battery from the vehicle. Any help would be appreciated.
  12. Thanks tel1958 that would be great. (Printed on sticker on the back of TV) Sharp Corporation of Australia. Model NO.CX 48D3 Serial NO.08744 power supply 230-240~50 Hz,80w I am unsure of what numbers on the circuit board is too identify it. So I will tell you what I can see. On a sticker (CX48D3 M 588) (8185X0 51 700 ) and immediately below that printed on the circuit board (K8185WE) another number printed on the circuit board (PWBF8185PE). Sticker in centre of board (0338). The number for the diode is (D214). This is a bit of an overkill of information, the model number that matches with the number on the circuit board is probably all you need. Thanks in advance for your help.
  13. Thinks harsh. That is the kind of information I am looking for. I don't think using electrolysis alone or with commonly used chemicals such as salt and sulphuric acid, Is going to produce the amount of hydrogen needed to run a car or generator. I think finding a chemical that isn't as corrosive and can increase the production of hydrogen, as well as be recycle will be a step in the right direction. Thanks for your reply
  14. I am looking for methods of producing hydrogen from water. If anyone knows of any good sites please let me know. And also does anyone know of the best material to use for the electrodes that doesn't deteriorate. I have done some experiments with sulphuric acid dial looted with water and water with salt. Of course these combinations with the current is very corrosive. Its early days so any suggestions would be appreciated. And yes I plan to run my car on hydrogen.
  15. Hi. Ok I might be right off track on what you're trying to do. What about using a keyboard hack as I have for an arcade machine. And a keyboard splitter that would give you over 100 individual contacts. You may need to amplify the signal from the keyboard if you need a considerable distance. If this is at all useful I can help out with the keyboard splitter and the matrix mapping for the keyboard.
  16. I have a TV that decides to turn off after about 5 to 20 minutes. I found several components with the soldier lifted from the track. After soldiering them it stayed on for longer, I then found to of the rectifier diodes were blown and another that I cannot identify to replace, it has the numbers (30 40 and three dots). it is a 51 cm sharp television about eight years old. I know about releasing the charge from the capacitor that is the one that will throw you across the room. I would like to be able to look for problems with the television powered up. I will only proceed (only) if I am confident I can do so (safely) so could someone please help me with the (do and don'ts), safety procedures. Thanks in advance.
  17. Hi I am also new to electronics. There are plenty of good projects on electronic lads project section to get you going. For me I searched for a project that I could use. Something that had a very good description of how it worked. Also it would probably be a good idea to get familiar with the basics of construction. You'll find this information under articles and a lot more. I Hope I have been helpful.
  18. Sorry it was a (TIP 31) not a TIP 37 and I changed R15 to 100 ohms
  19. Thanks to everyone for your help. I think I will use the method mentioned of adding turns of wire to the transformer. As I want to incorporate a second power supply I will have to try to find a transformer that I am able to add the wire to as my existing one won't allow me to. As for the Q2 2N22219 I use a TIP37 and managed to carefully bend the legs to suit the PCB.
  20. Model PM128A Maximum Input: 199.9mV DC Maximum Display: 1999 Counts (3.5 digits) with auto polarity indicator Display Type: LCD Conversion Type: Dual-Slope Integrated A/D Overrange Indication:
  21. Thanks for your reply. I used one transformer a + voltage regulator, rectifier bridge and two capacitors. that is the only way I know how to supply the 9v. I then tried another separate voltage regulator set up, on the same transformer. The voltage panel meter still went haywire. I have searched the net for a circuit to allow me to connect these two panel meter to the same power supply, but couldn't find anything. This problem is probably very trivial to most electronic enthusiasts. I am very much a beginner in electronics and I have no problem of constructing a detailed project with, schematics, PCB, overlay, circuit operation. Simple schematics to connect the panel meter to my main transformer would be very much appreciated. I'm reluctant to experiment in fear of damaging than.
  22. Thanks for your reply. The panel meters work very well. I would just prefer to make it more compact, and I want to incorporate a previous project I made from electronic lads(3-30 V/2.5 A Stabilized power supply). this is probably going to be one of my most used piece of equipment. So I would like to make it as good as a can.
  23. Hi all. I am new to electronics and I have built this power supply. Everything worked great except for the panel meters, it seems I'm not the only one. I tried everything I could think of which wasn't much. ended up adding to extra transformers, so at least now I have A power supply that I can use. I built the whole thing in an old stereo case and use the transformer from it. It doesn't look quite as bad as it sounds but there is enough room inside to swing a cat. If someone could help me with detailed information on solving the panel meter problem. so I can get rid of the two transformers would be very much appreciated. I can then put it into a proper case. Thanks in advance. Dazza
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