Jump to content
Electronics-Lab.com Community

LostViking

Members
  • Posts

    36
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by LostViking

  1. All LCD panels allow light through when they are in the off state. The shinny part you see inside is either a reflector (only reflects light) or a transflector (both reflects and still allows some light, transmissive). The real problem is getting the LCD to completely block the light, and to be able to write to all the segments or pixels. Talk to Sharp or one of the other LCD manufacturers and they can help.
  2. It's not going to be simple. You need a way to convert the analog signals (voltages) to digital. You can use a series of comparators to drive each LED as the thresholds get tripped. This is kind of a brute force approach, but isn't complicated. A better solution might be to use a microcontroller with an internal A/D convertor and then use an output port to drive some transistors to actually supply the power to the LED's.
  3. OK, I get it. Just run the ones you want to light with the left blinker from that circuit. You can't connect them all together and then selectively turn them on. Use current limiting resistors so they don't burn up as soon as they are activated. If you used LED's less than about 3500 millicandela, start over with good ones. You can't own a gun in Canada either. What's that got to do with answering his questions?
  4. Yes the 555 has a squareware output. But you can integrate this over a cap and get a psuedo signwave. Use that to drive a descrete transistor switching the DC. You will have to play with it, but it's doable.
  5. It's a ceramic dipped monolythic capacitors. Or yes for short.
  6. And not all LM317's are created equally. The LM317T has thermal shut down.
  7. The last reply is partially correct in that the lines horizontally mean the contacts move together. The original question was not this. The lines you are asking about indicate that the contacts are activated by the coil that the dashed lines are pointing at. This is very common in schematics where the contacts may be drawn in one place and the circuit that activates the coil is somewhere else.
  8. Parallel the batteries to increase capacity (life), then use a boost regulator to get the 3V up to 3.7V. Since most boost regulator circuits have a very wide input range this will keep working as the batteries drain. Look up BOOST regulators (these are DC to DC regulators) and you'll see plenty of designs on the web.
  9. The problem you are having is not reading the value correctly, it's the measurements you are taking. You didn't mention removing the parts, so I assume they are still soldered into the circuit. That becomes an in-circuit measurement. You would have to account for what the rest of the circuit is doing to the meter. SMD resistors. Most...3 digits are 5%, 4 digit are 1 or 2%. Last is always the number of zeros.
  10. Just about any general purpose OPAMP will do fine. Try an LM324, not great for sound quality but who cares in this case. Look it up on the web and you'll find plenty of circuit diagrams to build from. I used to make them like this as guitar practice headphone amplifiers.
  11. If all you want is to slowly turn the LED on, a simple RC is all that you need. The extra parts are NOT needed. Assuming your circuit can supply at least 20mA. Are you talking about an indicator for something in your car? Plenty of current capacity already.. I see a lot of replies on this forum forgetting the basic rules of design; KISS.
×
  • Create New...