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Everything posted by GreekPIC

  1. Here you go, Nilo. Sorry about the quality, it's not my camera but I think you can tell where everything goes... Nikolas
  2. To answer my own (#2) question: Target 3001 exports to IDF. I received an e-mail from them (I had tried a demo once, I didn't even remember that) about the new version: News within the current Version V11: - Library Updater - Realtime Design Rule Check - IDF-Export (allows e.g. 3D view of your PCB) - Interface to the power autorouter Electra (meet the makers of Electra on Nov. 9th between 1 and 3 pm) - Frontpanel design in TARGET 3001! IDF is a 3D representation of your board (with components), which can be used in a CAD program that supports it (like Inventor) to help you design the case, wiring, connectors etc. Inventor 9 Pro can also autotrace the cables (with wire locks etc) and calculate total wire length. Quite impressive, isn't it? Nikolas
  3. You can use pull up resistors. MP can help with the values, but tying a resistor between each pin and +5V will make shure it's +5V when high. When its low it's grounded so it's 0V regardless of the resistor. Hope that helps. Nikolas
  4. Thanks MP, I got some reading to do now... As for the circuit what I meant was this: as it is I can adjust the gain so that the voltage will go from 0V to 5V at full pressure. I could use one sensor per axis set up mechanically in a way that in the rest position the stick applies enough pressure to give 2.5V. That position would be difficult to calibrate and even more so to keep calibrated. Thats why I want to use 2 sensors per axis, so that in the center position the stick will press neither. Pushing on one side will press one sensor (and give 0V at max oressure) and pushing on the other side will press the other (and give 5V). Hope I explained it well enough Nikolas
  5. I thought so, it is quad so 2 axes x 2 sensors is what I need. But could you give me a schematic? I have never used an opamp before. How can I make the voltage go from 2.5 to 0V when one sensor is pressed and from 2.5 to 5V when the second is pressed?
  6. Me and my crazy ideas again! I want to make a realistic replica of the F-16 SSC (actually a joystick which doesn't move). I found these sensors:http://www.tekscan.com/flexiforce/specs_flexiforce.html I want to make some changes: I want 2 sensors per axis. When the stick is centered both sensors should be slightly preloaded and the output should be 2.5V. When it is pushed hard to one side it should give 0V and at the other 5V. Also the MC34071 opamp is hard for me to find. I have an LM324 and a LM2904 in my spare box. Could I do something with those? Thanks in advance, Nikolas
  7. I'll post one as soon as I fix my camera
  8. Well I'm new to this too so... Even though I'm a beginner I find it easy to make a circuit given the schematic. Just don't ask me to troubleshoot or modify...
  9. Just a quick search: http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/elec/ck1614.pdf Mode 5 is your thing I think
  10. I think the quill is not rigid enough. When it is all the way down it has a play of 2-3mm!! (at least the small ones like this). Where I work we have bigger (and more expensive) drills which I guess could manage the side forces). You could replace the bearings (and add some more) to make the quill more rigid.
  11. http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/pc/008/index.html Actually the discussion about this project was just 4 threads below yours!
  12. Yes you can, you have to create a new library. It's not very hard, I've only used Eagle 10-15 times and I managed to add an IC (UCN5804B). Easier yet if you don't care for the schematic to lool good and you just want to make the pcb is to place separate pads for the switch pins and place them wherever you want them. HTH, Nikolas
  13. I'm no expert in Eagle but I think: con-subd -> F09 -> F09H is what you need. HTH, Nikolas
  14. I use roller bearings in DIY housings (see pic). The problem is that the distance between the motor gear and the lead screw gear has to be set precisely. I decided to ditch this setup, however, for the following reasons: 1. The binding problem 2. I don't need reduction, the motors seem to have enough torque so no reason to loose speed 3. More backlash problems 4. K.I.S.S. So I decided to go with direct drive. I received the rest of the UCN's and connected all motors. I also connected home and limit switches and they are working great. Now I have to make the relay board. A question here: If I make the PNP version won't the motor start if the PC shuts down? I think I'll make the first version.
  15. 1. I'm giving Eagle PCB a second chance. This time I managed to get something going but have some questions. Most important is how do I print just the pcb traces (something with layers?). 2. Anybody knows anything about the IDF standard? I'm working with Autodesk Inventor and it is supposed to import boards in IDF format so you can fit them in a housing, calculate wire lenghts, connector cutouts etc.
  16. Ok, working now. I don't know what was wrong because I changed more than one thing (not good, I know). I increased the pulswidth in Turbocnc, changed the mode to 2-phase (jumpers) etc. I still have to play with the feedrate settings to see what's the top speed I can get out of it. I also found out that I have to redesign the bearing housings because the gears bind at high speeds. The placement is critical so maybe I'll have to make the housings adjustable.
  17. I have to check it out. I was thinking that maybe something is wrong with the software (TurboCNC) or the printer port. I'll probably make a 555 based circuit to give pulses for testing.
  18. I used the schematic from the projects section. I didn't change anything between the two runs. The voltages are ok. Only thing I can think of is that the IC burned. But I only used the circuit for 10 minutes and the IC didn''t get hot (I didn't have a sink so I checked frequently). I've ordered the rest of the IC's (I tested only one axis), I'll swap this one and see what happens.
  19. Yesterday it worked, today it doesn't! The motor has holding torque but is not moving. What could that be?
  20. Ok, thanks, I downloaded the motors datasheet and it's good for 24V so no problem. I'm using 12V right now but I have a 18V PS I might use. Now I have to make the relay circuit to turn the spindle on. PS. Looking back at the thread I saw I have made a mistake in the coolant discussion. The 220 grade oil is used on the slides and is not water soluble. We use Castrol Superedge 33 (~8% in water) as coolant.
  21. Ok, I built the circuit and it worked fine. I had only one UCN so I tested only one axis with TurboCNC, other than that it's ready. Just one question: when the motor is not moving one coil is still energized. This is probably normal and supposed to provide holding torque but the motor is warming up. Is this normal?
  22. GPG thanks but, being a newbie in electronics I didn't quite understand what this IC does (besides it looks hard to find). I see it can drive the IGBT's using 3 PWM input signals. Can't I drive the IGBT's directly? I was thinking of trying with a Basic Stamp 2 I have laying around (using the PWMout command). Nikolas
  23. I'm building a CNC mill and need a way to control the spindle speed from the PC. I've found circuits to control DC motors from the software (TurboCNC). That is OK for my "test vessel" but later I'm gonna need something to control a 2-3HP 3phase AC motor. I've seen commercial VFD's but no computer controlled ones. So, being a compulsive DIYer I thought of the possibility to built one. The basic idea is shown in the attached pic. I will need a microcontroller to drive the IGBT's (taking commands from the PC) and a rectifier to provide the DC link voltage from 220VAC 1ph (it would be better if it could accept 3ph also). What do you think? Is it doable or am I in over my head here?
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