surajbarkale

As you have voltage accross LED's 3.5V you can connect 3 of them in series & then parallel sections of three series LED's. This will reduce the value & power loss in the series resistor. :)

It is available here in India. So somebody must be producing it ;D

Remove the transistor 2N2222 (connected to switch) & directly connect output of hall effect sensor to the point where emitter of that transistor was. The output current of hall effect sensor is not important here. Also make sure that you are operating the Hall effect switch sorrectly by connecting an LED at it's output.

What you need is a PWM modulated by a Traingular wave of low frequency. Feed this PWM to a TRIAC through sutaible optocoupler (e.g. MOC3041). Check out it's datasheet at http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/M/O/C/3/MOC3041-M.shtml it has some cool circuits.

[move]Use this syntax[/move] [move]Text you want to scroll[/move] Or you can click the button with scrolling M & type between the tags.

Your best bet is to use a microcontroller. A 20 pin will do the job & will cost less than discrete logic. You can use a CPLD also but then I don't know the prise factor.

Sandwhich a rubber pad between two metal plates. This will form a variable pressure sensitive capacitor. Much reliable than human finger :))

Hay you folks battling on theory - http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/navy/docs/es310/AM.htm prateeksikka, Take a look at IC ZN414, it is the most simple way to build an AM receiver. It can catch a local AM station but don't expect to get BBC ;D (well unless you are in UK)

what is PEN? Is it the stuff that I use to write things? ???

The battery is not a constant current source but it is a constant voltage source. The 12V/75A specifications mean that it will hold the terminal voltage to 12V for current form 0A to 75A. In practice you will not get exactly 12V over the range but voltage will be closer to 12V. So don't worry about the current if you require only 30A.

Here is a project http://users.cableaz.com/~cappels/dproj/LCRFLINK/LCRFLINK.htm. You can remove the microcontrollers and put a switch at i/p & LED at o/p and you can get what you need.

I found this site - http://www.uwgb.edu/dutchs/PSEUDOSC/SquareCirc.htm BTW if you google with square root pi it will give you the result directly

Ante, What you are refering to is the skin current effect. As the frequency of signal increses, more current flows along the surface. And the core carries lesser current. This effect occures at high frequency & there is a formula called depth penitration (or something similar ;D) for it.

well it's more like a penguine ;D

Check if your power supply is underrated try replacing it with one having higher wattage. Or there may be a problem on onboard sound ckt. try using a sound card.

First get the component correctly mounted then just solder without caring for shorts between pins. Finally remove the excess solder with desoldering wick. You have to fry a few components during initial ventures but once you get the hang of it nothing is simpler.

I use windows AND linux. I haven't heard abt basic though

Shift registers are good dividers too. google "shift register theory" this and read till you get tired

no effect! if you are passing it through an inverting amplifer with unity gain.

This seems to be a good idea http://www.andrewkilpatrick.org/mind/ir_mixer/

In a synchronus counter, all flip-flops have same clock signal. Thus the outputs of all flipflops change at same time. However a asynchronus counter dosen't has a single clock going to all ff's thus creating glitches in the output. Although asynch counter can be built with vrey little glue logic, it it not advisable at high frequency.

Probably Date & Time ? ;D

Find a good carpenter & paster him with your needs ;D

USB hardware is also specialised. It is not a simple UART. It must understand & react to various bus states. Comparing USB to RS232 is like comparing a moterbike to bicycle. ;D

AND each signal with output of 555 & then you can have the waveform you need.