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HarryA

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Posts posted by HarryA

  1. Is the action  like this?  I got to many cd's

    Are you comfortable using a micro-controller like an Arduino UNO?

    time:   action                      switch 1    switch 2     
    0:     hv pulses charge C1    at ca        at cd S2's
    1:     C1 is charged to 24v   at cd         at cc
    2:    hv pulses applied to V  at cb         at cc
    3:    C1 drops to 17v            at cd         at cd S2's
    4:    hv pulses charge C1     at ca        at cd  S2's

      cycle repeats

    circuit.png.381f0095fb459a443c1f5f2ef97ccfaf.png

  2. What types of short period are you interested in?  What divert times are you interested in?

    An inductor  in series with the source and load would retard the current going out and when the magnetic field collapses there would be a back emf towards the source.

    A length of coaxial cable would form a delay line. If not terminated to match the cable at the load a pulse would be returned towards the  source. see: analog delay line

     

  3. Multi-turn pots makes it slow to make adjustments. As Vellerman did not use them perhaps you could replace the pots with good ones like Allen-Bradley pots. Beware  of the various tapers that pots have.  Check Ebay for good prices on Allen-Bradley pots from US suppliers.

  4. As this was in response to a previous post that was removed I will replace with a joke:

     

    Wife texts husband on a cold winter morning: "Windows frozen, won't open

    "Husband texts back: "Gently pour some hot water over it and then gently tap edges with hammer."

    Wife texts back 10 minutes later: "Computer really messed up now."

  5. If you are handy with a soldering iron you can get a push button switch with potentiometer on ebay.  for example:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/113927101102?hash=item1a86959aae:g:TyAAAOSw6ShdqKXJ&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsCTccvK8zt8P7ay7xO2JNnQVqK54hb11np%

    You would need to match the potentiometer on the switch with the one on the timer board.

    You  could replace the potentiometer and switch on a timer board like this perhaps:

    https://www.amazon.com/Module-Adjustable-Timing-Switch-1-10sec/dp/B07SL5HBZ9/ref=sr_1_58?crid=3806JFZG2WCBO&keywords=time+delay+board&qid=1670774252&sprefix=time+delay+board%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-58

    Look for one with the delay you need.

  6.  

    Ok but if I’m using an electronic load to discharge the capacitor (so I can measure the energy it can deliver) once it’s been charged, then do I need the buffer of a DC-DC converter. Won’t the electronic load (https://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=cba5) serve that function?

     

     

    I would think you would not need a converter given: "Discharge current is software and electronically regulated using a solid state switch and fan cooled electronic load"

    Why can't you  get the energy/power by simply charging a capacitor over some time interval?  Given work W = 1/2*C*V*V  in joules.  You may need to make allowance for the capacitor's ESR either charging or discharging.

    For others: Equivalent series resistance (ESR)  describes losses associated with moving a charge through a capacitor. See:

    https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/simple-explanation-of-capacitor-esr

     

     

     

  7. I would think shorting the output would kill the converter thus acting as a smokey fuse. 

    The solar power folks use converters that supply a constant output for varying input  voltages. One would like a converter that supplies say 5v as the capacitor discharges from say 12v to 7v. Perhaps this type:

    https://www.amazon.com/DEVMO-Adjustable-Converter-XL6009-Voltage/dp/B07SZQMKLW

    Also searching on the internet for "solar dc up down converter" will give you some useful information.

  8. Perhaps one could use a dc to dc converter without loading the capacitor, thus not discharging it quickly? They made various types for various voltage combinations. See for example:  https://www.amazon.com/Aceirmc-Current-Converter-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B082XQC2DS among many.

    This subject comes up often on the internet; I see a Youtube video for replacing the battery in an automobile with capacitors; I  need to look at that one.

    If that interest you I have a 12v to 5v converter I could try.

  9. Sorry they are beyond me. Why would one use a 3 amp fuse that trips at 6 amps? What does the 15 and 50 amps got to do with it?

    How would it allow current that high? Beware there are a lot of fake components out there. I got some ICs via  Amazon.com lately they had the TI symbol on them but also "made in China" on them; never seen TI chips with that on them before.

    For other viewers:

    ptc.png.becbef6a8beda22318001845c675073b.png

  10. I think it would be a worth while experiment to increase the current flow in the motor circuit by say  200ma. From the next to the bottom table above that would push it above the 200 ma minimum for mild coffee but not put into the 800ma maximum. One would need to find the motor voltage in order to calculate the required added shunt resistor (across the motor terminals.

    I gather the beans never hang up within the machine so that the flow to the grinder is interrupted.

  11. I gather the machine has  a fixed number of pulses it expects for each type of brew. It counts these via the two magnets. It also monitors the current draw by the motor. If the motor current drops off (no longer grinding) while it has not reach its count of rotations it "thinks" it is out of beans.

    If  it is not out of beans and the motor is really working then it is missing counts at the hall effect sensor is what you are thinking? If it is really is out of beans it would discard the grounds that it has so far also?

    On second thought if it is missing counts it would run longer and grind to much coffee.  So it must be that there are more counts to go and the current to the motor has fallen off?

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