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Posts posted by HarryA

  1. As this was in response to a previous post that was removed I will replace with a joke:


    Wife texts husband on a cold winter morning: "Windows frozen, won't open

    "Husband texts back: "Gently pour some hot water over it and then gently tap edges with hammer."

    Wife texts back 10 minutes later: "Computer really messed up now."

  2. If you are handy with a soldering iron you can get a push button switch with potentiometer on ebay.  for example:


    You would need to match the potentiometer on the switch with the one on the timer board.

    You  could replace the potentiometer and switch on a timer board like this perhaps:


    Look for one with the delay you need.


    Ok but if I’m using an electronic load to discharge the capacitor (so I can measure the energy it can deliver) once it’s been charged, then do I need the buffer of a DC-DC converter. Won’t the electronic load (https://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=cba5) serve that function?



    I would think you would not need a converter given: "Discharge current is software and electronically regulated using a solid state switch and fan cooled electronic load"

    Why can't you  get the energy/power by simply charging a capacitor over some time interval?  Given work W = 1/2*C*V*V  in joules.  You may need to make allowance for the capacitor's ESR either charging or discharging.

    For others: Equivalent series resistance (ESR)  describes losses associated with moving a charge through a capacitor. See:





  4. I would think shorting the output would kill the converter thus acting as a smokey fuse. 

    The solar power folks use converters that supply a constant output for varying input  voltages. One would like a converter that supplies say 5v as the capacitor discharges from say 12v to 7v. Perhaps this type:


    Also searching on the internet for "solar dc up down converter" will give you some useful information.

  5. Perhaps one could use a dc to dc converter without loading the capacitor, thus not discharging it quickly? They made various types for various voltage combinations. See for example:  https://www.amazon.com/Aceirmc-Current-Converter-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B082XQC2DS among many.

    This subject comes up often on the internet; I see a Youtube video for replacing the battery in an automobile with capacitors; I  need to look at that one.

    If that interest you I have a 12v to 5v converter I could try.

  6. Sorry they are beyond me. Why would one use a 3 amp fuse that trips at 6 amps? What does the 15 and 50 amps got to do with it?

    How would it allow current that high? Beware there are a lot of fake components out there. I got some ICs via  Amazon.com lately they had the TI symbol on them but also "made in China" on them; never seen TI chips with that on them before.

    For other viewers:


  7. I think it would be a worth while experiment to increase the current flow in the motor circuit by say  200ma. From the next to the bottom table above that would push it above the 200 ma minimum for mild coffee but not put into the 800ma maximum. One would need to find the motor voltage in order to calculate the required added shunt resistor (across the motor terminals.

    I gather the beans never hang up within the machine so that the flow to the grinder is interrupted.

  8. I gather the machine has  a fixed number of pulses it expects for each type of brew. It counts these via the two magnets. It also monitors the current draw by the motor. If the motor current drops off (no longer grinding) while it has not reach its count of rotations it "thinks" it is out of beans.

    If  it is not out of beans and the motor is really working then it is missing counts at the hall effect sensor is what you are thinking? If it is really is out of beans it would discard the grounds that it has so far also?

    On second thought if it is missing counts it would run longer and grind to much coffee.  So it must be that there are more counts to go and the current to the motor has fallen off?

  9. I am confused with the two SIDACs (Silicon Diode for Alternating Current) in series. They are rated 220-250 volts switching each. 240 mains voltages would be in the order of 340*1,4 or 480 volts  peak. About the same as the two SIDACs; not much to switch with?

    "These tasks of the starter are taken over by two 135 V sidac (or a single 270 V one). The starting voltage is thus 270 V, Which is below the peak value of the mains (about 340 V), but higher than the working voltage of a 20-40 W neon tube." 

    see: https://circuit-diagramz.com/sidac-neon-tube-starter/

    I will look at the circuit some more.

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