HarryA

I believe this is what you need:

 
push botton switch.asc push botton sw.xcf

Is Rolling Meadows, IL 60008  near you? see:
https://www.solder.net/training-courses/bga-rework-training/
See for low key diy rework: https://www.instructables.com/BGA-rework/
 
 

I gather the machine has  a fixed number of pulses it expects for each type of brew. It counts these via the two magnets. It also monitors the current draw by the motor. If the motor current drops off (no longer grinding) while it has not reach its count of rotations it "thinks" it is out of beans.
If  it is not out of beans and the motor is really working then it is missing counts at the hall effect sensor is what you are thinking? If it is really is out of beans it would discard the grounds that it has so far also?
On second thought if it is missing counts it would run longer and grind to much coffee.  So it must be that there are more counts to go and the current to the motor has fallen off?

I am confused with the two SIDACs (Silicon Diode for Alternating Current) in series. They are rated 220-250 volts switching each. 240 mains voltages would be in the order of 340*1,4 or 480 volts  peak. About the same as the two SIDACs; not much to switch with?
"These tasks of the starter are taken over by two 135 V sidac (or a single 270 V one). The starting voltage is thus 270 V, Which is below the peak value of the mains (about 340 V), but higher than the working voltage of a 20-40 W neon tube." 
see: https://circuit-diagramz.com/sidac-neon-tube-starter/
I will look at the circuit some more.

If you look  in the IDE at [tools] -> boards you will see the Nano and the Duemilanove. You  will not see the port listed until you select the board and have a board or adapter connected.  The Meg2560 has a different  AVR microcontroller; an  ATmega2560.
If you search on Youtube for the FT232RL (the USB to serial/TTL Adapter) you  will find  numerous  videos.
Speaking of ports, the current port is shown in the IDE in [Tools] also in the Preferences file. The Preferences file can be found [file] -> Preferences. That brings up a pop up window containing the path to the file. Near the bottom of the file can be seen the comport listed in two places. Also in the Device Manager it is listed under Ports(COM & LPT).  Device Manager is via [Windows] + [x]. Sometimes you can edit the Preferences file to bring the comport inline with the device port iIf the IDE gets confused. You may  know this but others may not.
(I screwed up the fonts by cut and past again)
 

As this chip is made by Analog  and Analog owns LTspice simulator the circuit appears in the simulator and can be explored there. The circuit there is slightly different. Note it uses the FDS6680A mosfets. If you want 10 amperes make sure the mosfets can handle the current.

Go here and put in your requirements then you will see some 10 ampere chips:
https://www.analog.com/en/parametricsearch/11491#/p5573=min|24&p5574=100|max&p5347=min|12&p5357=12|max&p5349=10|240&qsfv=vinmin|24_vinmax|100_vout|12_iout|10&p5362=Buck

Do you think it is a D6Gi1K or D6GiLK ?  After the G it looks like an aye i gather.
Not even close: http://twitpic.com/d6gilk
 SOT323 is a SMD package type; it has only three leads. Often a transistor.

There is a library file ( GOLANG library for SPI ) here that maybe helpful?
https://github.com/stamp/CS5484
I have problems finding the page that has the {code} button to download the file; you may have to dork around with the URL a  bit.
 

That looks correct. Good job with the simulator.

This site gives the MPXV7002DPT1 as an alternative to the MPXV7002DP
see:  https://www.apogeeweb.net/circuitry/mpxv7002dp-transducer-datasheet-features-pinout.html#product-overview
This one has a list of exact alternatives  also:
https://www.newark.com/nxp/mpxv7002dpt1/pressure-sensor-2-to-2kpa-sop/dp/28X3717
 

The circuit below is similar to what you want to do. Using a 4 input NAND gate you can connect it to the 4 outputs that represent the valve you want.  Your NAND gate output would connect to the clr line.

If it is a 120 volt Cuisinart blender then you can get one here: They ship world wide. Else search for "1 uf 250vac capacitor"
https://www.ebay.com/itm/281873849657
That is a horrible url !

from Wikipedia:
 = (K+L)(K+M)(L+N)(M+P)(N+Q)(P+Q)
 = (K+LM)(N+LQ)(P+MQ)
 = (KN+KLQ+LMN+LMQ)(P+MQ)
 = KNP + KLPQ + LMNP + LMPQ + KMNQ + KLMQ + LMNQ + LMQ
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
K * N+LQ   +  LM*(N+LQ)
K * N+LQ = KN+KLQ    and LM*(N+LQ) =  LMN+LMQ
for the : (KN+KLQ+LMN+LMQ)
for the fourth line multiply the third line  by P and then by MQ from (P+MQ)

If you compare your  board with the one on Ebay that one looks like the better board.
You may gain some insight by comparing the P6? on your board with the three in the schematic and see if it connects the same as one of them. This is the schematic of the Viber12a in a battery charger.

 

see: https://www.nteinc.com/semiconductors/ComplPr.php    They list matched complementary pairs that maybe helpful like the NTE128/NTE129 at 80 volts and 1 ampere. And many others as well.

There is an article "Design Project2 - BCD Calculator" that maybe helpful.
http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~ece352/fall02/old_project/p2.pdf

There is  information here on Visual Servoing that maybe helpful;  particularly  the numerous references at the end of the article.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visual_servoing
If you look at a bmp file of a smd image like this one (I could not find an image of the bottom of a smd).
You can see the white background as FF FF FF and one scan line across the component highlighted.  So in theory one could  find the four corners and calculated the rotation and any x y offset. In bmp files the image is inverted.
If you only need the rotation then only part of one edge would be required to calculate it I believe.

 

smd compoint.bmp

The IPS6021 is readily available from China via Ebay.  There is a supplier in the UK also:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IPS6021RPBF-Intelligent-Power-Switch-High-Side-Active-High-1Output-5-5V-TO-252-5/152755283380?hash=item2390eca5b4:g:U~MAAOSwqXxdNtVK 

If you do not need SMD perhaps "The LT138A/LT338A (LM138/LM338) series of adjustable regulators provide 5A output current over an output voltage range of 1.2V to 32V."
The LM338 is about 1$ each on ebay.
 

Perhaps the chip is over heating with to much current draw?  Try connecting only two motors to see what happens.
For the l298n chip itself:
For the IO Peak Output Current (each Channel)       
– Non Repetitive (t = 100ms)            3.0A
–Repetitive (80% on –20% off; ton = 10ms)    2.5A
–DC Operation                    2.0A
TOTAL DC CURRENT UP TO 4 A 

Perhaps? To big?
" This Fujifilm FinePix digital camera has Bluetooth connectivity for wireless media transfer. "
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/fujifilm-finepix-xp130-16-4-megapixel-digital-camera-sky-blue/6204739.p?skuId=6204739

You ask for a lot!
Start with Ebay.com for transmitters and receivers: see:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-88-108MHz-FM-Transmitter-Module-Wireless-Microphone-Dictagraph-Interceptor/141659602950?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D40832%26meid%3D5caec1e4bbe74e2fa065b6379434198a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D111649741072

I enlarged the image off the Amazon.com but could not read it
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-LCS1620-Lithium-battery/dp/B01M6TQPY2/ref=sr_1_3/141-0275392-4037060?ie=UTF8&qid=1499813460&sr=8-3&keywords=Black+%26+Decker+LCS1620
...but ebay.com has a readable image
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Decker-LCS1620-20v-20-Volt-Lithum-Ion-Battery-Charger-NEW-/272090041874?epid=1640405275&hash=item3f59d48e12:g:mf8AAOSwawpXr3eh
 
120v @60hz 300ma
 
 

http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/SolarLight/SolarCharger-2.html

You points are well made; thanks.

On day one I found two voltage boosters on Ebay that gave more than 100 volts so I ordered both of them from China. The first  one I received was a 12v dc to 200 v dc. After connecting it up and adjusting it for 200 v I put a 100k resistor across the output  and got 2 volts output! It took a one mega-ohm load to keep 200 v.

The   second one (12v dc to 220 v ac) works well. I connected it to the 220v to 120v step down transformer and into a full wave bridge rectifier with a 100mfd capacitor and got 140 v dc; 9.6 volts input. With a 8.4 v NiMH rechargeable battery I get 128 v dc.
So I am happy with that  and  very surprised that the 50/60 hertz transformer works at all!