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bean1028

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  1. why does the parts list show a 1k pot for fine voltage adj?
  2. Hey guys, first off my son spilled something on my laptop and my keyboard hates me now so I apologize if my grammar/puncuation/spelling is crap, I will do my best. I have just about finished the PCB, I used two thin single PCB's and made a dspcb, and since I am using a dremel to do everything and precision is nearly impossible, I am unable to join the top layer to the bottom layer so I simply held the components off the top enough to solder the top and bottom layers. I knew that some things were missing on the birdy file, butI figured that is the board audioguru and redwire made so I made mine identical to the birdy file, but now that I am in the process of attaching the external components, I have noticed that the voltage fine adjust pot is nowhere to be found on the schematic, and I remember reading that it was an afterthought but 0 results turned up when searching the forum for voltage fine adjust. Is it simply ran series with the 10k coarse? If so, can I also use this method for a fine current adj since I am building the 5A? Also, with the birdy file there is a note to hit ratsnet to fill a groud plane under d7 which was eliminated. Since I have absolutely no idea what that is supposed to mean, I just used a wire in its place, is that the same as what redwire was saying? Also, I have read through this forum so many times that the I get the specifics confused so if you know of any mods off the top of your head that I need to do before applying power I would really appreciate the info. The updated design has not been modified at all on my project, from the board to parts list so I only need the mods to make the original ps-6 desing work properly. This is turning out a lot smoother than expected, the biggest delay I have had was my wife took the assembled pcb and tossed in in a pile of other stuff and I had to completely strip it and make a new one because some components were ripped off and took thecopper with them... Not exactly the setback I anticipated, but if it were too easy I guess it wouldn't be as much fun.
  3. Ok. I just ordered everything off newark (xcept xfr) for just over 20$. Actually, I got 3 of almost everything just in case. I ordered 3 power transistors in case I build the 5amp. I decided not to be cheap and bought some Aavid heatsinks with a thermal resistance of 4 degrees/w. Ok that was a lie, I did go cheap-they were 6 for 3 dollars, another 3 for shipping brand new. I was ready to pay 20+ if I had to, don't tell the seller that. I have an 1100 watt 250 dollar stainless microwave that works great but would work better if the xfer was rewound. I think I am going for the 5 amp. You guys put way too much effort into making such a wonderful product accessible to poor people like me, so I am going to make sure y'all's work is put to good use. Thank you everyone with your infinite patience for helping us newbies through this, it is people like you who donate their time so that others can benefit that makes the internet so damn useful. We all appreciate you. Now wish me luck I am going to go electrocute myself.
  4. Thank you Audioguru. I am going to build the 5amp that... Redwire? built... I am going to try to use the exact parts he used to try and avoid the endless troubleshooting. Another bonus is that since we are both using microwave transformers I might luck out and have a near identical power source eliminating all the problems I have read about concerning this. At worst I think I might end up short on x-fmr amps, but I will have a psu with a 5A potential. I was wondering if that was the case with the opamps, but I have never seen a use for negative voltage so I have never had to consider that. Also to correct myself in my last post: I said "MCU or TLE", and realized there is no U in the MCU part number. oops.
  5. I know it's not as much fun, but Harbor freight sells 3 dollar dvom's, PERFECT for the 0-30vPSU. I got one and stripped it, the signal wires even have ring terminals already attached to them which you can connect to the back of your output terminals. The only thing you need is a 9v supply (which you can easily acheive with an lm317), and the cable for the LCD is that square rubber thing, but I just used it anyway because the sub-board it was mouted to fit perfectly in the front of my psu. I cut a hole for the LCD and it look just like it's supposed to be there, and there was no designing/re-designing schematics and boards. You can also put a switch to use your leads for power on one side and on the other side of the switch have the outputs routed to only the dvom, turning the ordinary PSU into a PSU with built-in 600v DVOM.
  6. Also, lookin at the TLE2141 on Farnell it is listed as having a max input of 22v, where here it is listed as 44v. What are the key points to consider for the op-amp if I decide to use a different one? I have several lm's and others laying around, as well as a bunch of tl081's I bought to make the first version.
  7. Ok, I have been following this and waiting for a transformer to build this since last year, and the other day I finally ran across a microwave and decided to try my hand at rewinding it (thanx to... Audioguru? Whoever it was that did this for the idea). Well, after a couple of failed attempts using the wrong wire, I ended up with a 31.2v transformer. No clue of the amperage or how to test it, but the voltage is there! Now before I begin, I must revert to and rephrase the question asked a few posts back-Why all the different versions? Everyone keeps asking for the schematic which is posted 6 times on every page, and with everything being posted in the first 3 posts in this thread that boggles my mind-but that's not my question. Here it is: Why is everyones power supply in need of mods to work? And to be a different problem with every person? Electricity is always electricity... So with that being said, does anyone have any advice for me to build this and have it work the way it is supposed to? The first time? Also, any tips on how to check the amps of the x-former for use on the 5amp version, or should I stick with the 3amp version? One last thing... To Audioguru and those who helped design the original working psu-which op-amp? MCU or TLE?
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