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lighty

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  1. The MC24072 is a dual opamp configuration, it should work but its not a direct replacement part, as the pinout is different, but if you can work around this, then I'm sure you could. PS, you will loose the offset too. but not a train smash though. Thats just my opinion, perhaps wait for some pro's to answer.
  2. Yip, started something but have been caught at at work, need to spend some time on it.
  3. I'm wanting to add a Fine Adjustments pots to the circuit for the vltage and current, as I find the Pots are very sensitive. I was thinking of putting a 1K Pot between P2 and R18, and P1 and the output od U1. Would this work?
  4. Hi PicMaster I wasn't intending to control the PSU with a pic, but rather just use the voltages of the wiper to show where the Voltage and Current pots are situated. Eg, lets say the Vpot is set to 12 and current to 1 Amp, it would show this on the LCD, along with the realtime Volts and Amps. but at least you know the PSU wouldn't deliver More than 1 amp should something go wrong, wouldn't be nice to find out that the pot was set at 2 Amp... similarly for the voltage, to pervent over voltage should the load drop from the PSU, while you have something else connected to... If you know what I mean? I suppose you could use a tandem ganged Pot, using the second Pot to drive the "SET" voltages to the pic.
  5. Mmmmm Ok, the "SET" values don't look like it will work, the voltages change when circuit goes into CC. :(
  6. Ok, now that I have eventually got my PSU unit working 100%, I'm wanting to build a LCD Display for it. I'm hope to have the following displayed on it. Actual Voltage Set voltage Actual current Set current Temp of heatsink So here is my question, once calibrated, are the voltages from the wipers of P1 and P2 linear to the voltage and current limits, Or would the voltages change as the circuit regulates the voltage/current? The reason I ask is I'm wanting the use the ADC to read the voltages (through voltage divider resistor) from the the wiper to show the "set" V and I. Would this work?
  7. Thanks for all your patient help. Tested to 3amps! all ok
  8. I feel like a idiot now >:(, you have hit the nail on the head, only one of the 2N3055 cases where connected to the +35V. Will connect both and test!
  9. I have checked Emmitter voltage of the Q2 and it is same as the base voltage of the 2N3055's, when Voltage pot set to 0V as per previous post, but I will check again at say 12V. I will go through the board again with a fine tooth comb, Like I always say "if it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all" ;D
  10. I understand what you saying Audioguru, and thats why I'm so confused. I definately seems that the BD139 is taking all the load, hence it pops at anything over 1.5 Amps. Sorry, that was a typo, was meant to say Q2 gets warm (quick short circuit of output on a fair size heatsink), but doesn't get extreamely hot. Redwire, I do have them on a heatsink, but not very big, so I would expect them to heat pretty quick, but they don't. R17 is now 68ohm. I've also check R16, its correct @ 1kohm.
  11. ??? Just not winning, I happy with the voltage reg side, but I just popped another BD139 while calibrating the max current (by shorting through a multimeter), I had voltage set to about 12V-14V, the VR3 set to min current, I shorted the output (for 1 second intervals) and slowly worked the current Pot up untill I reached the max position, which was about 1.4 amps or something, I then started increasing VR3 to increase the max current limit (1/2 turn at a time so to not over shoot the 2.5 amp limit I want), but at about 1.7 amps, Q2 popped. It was getting warm, but extreamely hot. Q4 and Q5 where only just above room temp, almost as if they weren't taking any load? I'm ready to shelf this board and start again...... Please help
  12. Cool, Thanks again for all your help. I will load the circuit and let you know. Cheers
  13. Ok, replaced Q3, LED problem sorted. Replaced D11. Tried 2 new 2n3055, output voltage of 0.22V with a 10K resistor across outputs. U2 output still at 0.08V? VR1 still makes not difference.
  14. The 2N3055 are brand new, but will try another set. Will also replace D11. R19 and R20 are correct, I will try replace Q3 and then U3
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