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rbrainard

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  1. Thanks AudioGuru, looks like we posted about a minute apart. The terminology is all new to me. When I read the data sheet, I didn't know what "Pull-Down" meant exactlly until I hooked up some LEDs and figured out that the hall effect switch simply allows the circut to ground out. Slowly, I learn what the heck I am doing. Thanks for the help and patience.
  2. Good news, I got it to work over the weekend. What I didn't notice is that the hall effect switch pulls down and not up as I had belived. So, I replaced the push button with the hall effect switch and changes the 2N2222 NPN transistor to a Radio Shack 3906 PNP and it worked. Hurray!! Thanks for your help Suraj. Ryan
  3. CORRECTION: In my second comment I put "100mA." What I meant was 100mV. Thanks for the reply. I will try the LED test when I get home. As for the output voltage of the sensor, should I worry about the output voltage?
  4. Ok, looking close at the specs of the hall effect switch, it has an average output voltage of 100mA. I suppose that is not enough to power the ic. Does anyone have any idea what type of amplifier I should use and any times on how it would be installed? Again, any help would be greatly appreciated. I am new to the circuit world and I need all the help I can muster. Thanks in advance, Ryan
  5. Hello all. I had a quick question. I have a 4510 counter I made that uses a button and Schmitt trigger to count. What I am hoping to do is replace the button and trigger with a OH090U HALL EFFECT switch (has an internal schmitt trigger) but can't seem to get it to work. The counter works with the push button but when I install the hall effect switch it won't count. Is there something I am missing? How much current is required to make the counter acknowledge "high"?(The hall effect switch put out about 10-12mA when I tested it) Any help is greatly appreciated. I got the idea fro this project from this site: http://members.shaw.ca/roma/up-down.html Thanks in advance, Ryan
  6. Thanks for the ideas MP. I thought about the mercury switch idea and have been leaning towards using some type of Hall effect switch. I think that would fit my application a bit better anyhow. I will also contact him. Who better to ask right? Thanks again. See you in the forums. Ryan
  7. Perhaps you are right. I should just try the project and make sure I learn the process before I jump in head first. Again, thanks for your help. Ryan
  8. First off, thank you for the quick reply. You have been most helpful. Secondly, it seems like the HC74xx series would be a better choice. Is there any counters or decoders in that family? My idea is to use a Lith-Ion coin battery (3v 1000mAh). So, it would seem more stable if I were able to use a chip that could handle the lower voltage? Any ideas on alternative chips? Thanks again. I really appreciate your help. This is a field that seems to have high barriers of entry sometimes. Ryan
  9. Ok, to start I would like to mention that I am VERY new to building circuits. Now that that is out of the way, I have some questions for anyone interested. I am planning on building the step counter project http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/misc/007/ My first question is how can you estimate how long the battery for this project will last? Is there a formula or is my best bet to turn it on and see? My second question has a little less to do directly with the project. I have noticed a lot of the ICs that everyone used specify using 5/10/15V. Now, suppose I want to make a project operate on battery power. How does one find a battery that is compact and can supply 5V? I want my projects to be small but I can't think of any battery combinations that add up to 5V. Is there a small power inverter I can create? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Ryan
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