steven

:)i havent used the 4081 before so i have no idea on it but the decade counter itself , well the 4017 yes look in the forums somewhere for the ten led light chasser circuit i posted it may help you with some of the qestions as i used the 4017 decade counter ic in that with a 4011 i think it was you can make the leds stop to by shorting out the capacitor in that light chasser

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:)heres some pictures of the parralell ignition coil in action, i allso shot some footage of it to but it wont post so ill try redo a shorter video footage and loop it

:)the logic ic tester tested all those that are listed , and it was my prototype to and was really handy but now that ive upgraded it to a printed circuit version its not testing the 4001 and i think it may be because my 4001 ics are faulty i think they may be static sensitive and got damaged by it im not really sure , so ill get some new ones and try again as this teaster allways tested them ok before

:)you may like my logic ic tester in the forums somewhere to

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look in the forums, somewhere i posted key chain laser power supply, the receaver circuit for it is allso an infrared activated switch, or relay circuit it has an led that goes out when the laser is lined up with the photo transister

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:)the first output electrode can be bent away even further for longer arcs and for bigger voltage input from some charged up capacitors id have to modify them and space the coils apart even more

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here are some latest pictures , this is the parralell ignition coil setup i once rigged up. this time ive upgraded it and used 2 home made pvc ignition coil holders and the electrodes, well i use the 2 brass ones that i used once before for the same setup , now the high voltage return, well i was missing an electrode for that so i used a lenght of soft alliuminium alloy of some kind, i think they used it dureing powerline repairs of some kind , that peace was cut from a long coil of it , anyhow the first coil has one hv electrode thats bent towards the other hv electrode on the second coil now i used home made pvc electrode spacers to space the second hv electrode from the hv return , now when wired up to the ignition coil driver these 2 coils together in parralell put out around say 50,000 volts , now notice the lead pencill in one of the pictures , it was a pencil like that that i once held near the second hv electrode and an arc shot into it and punctured the wooden insulated end of the pencil and into my finger, the lead graphite itself acted like a resister i geuss but the clean holes it burnt into my skin with no pain gives me great ideas , for the use of high voltage arcs in exfoiliateing dead skin tissue and wart removal , and other things . now i did get a bit of black on my fingers where the holes got burnt but it just wipes off and leave clean holes . i once used another arc from another hv voltage circuit and beleave it or not i was able to zapp a wart om my mates head, with it and it shrunk and dried it out so good there was nothing but a tiny knob of dried skin left , if it had any mioster in it it got fried away in the process, and he dident feel it and its all healed now , if i pump hundreads of volts into the parralell coils here i would get arcs going all over so next i will make another setup which involves dismanteling 2 coils and modifying them and rerouting the inputs and returns , otherwide ill allso have arcs flying around the top insulated hv output to the neg return well thats kind of what happend once and i couldent beleave the arc to do that , but it did , makeing me think at first that the top high voltage insulated top section of the coil was breached , but it was suposed to fly from the hv out to neg but it was comeing from neg and going around the hv part and going to the other input it wasent doing what it was suposed to do , i cant exsplain long storey

:)well ive found some intresting stuff online about radar invisibility and it relates to the stuff cassette tapes are made of and onother one relates to the rusty stuff on steell when it gets rusty are they radar obsorbant like that iron oxide on tapes or other

staigen well its just the diode and continiuity tester all in one and i think its the forward voltage but ill have to check the instructions again as for what nationality well it depends on if your refering to the maker of my digital meter or diode , as for diode well its to small for anything else to go on it

staigen on the diode tester on my digital multimeter it reads 700-701

:)i have some diodes they look exactly like a 1n914 diode but they only have 823 numbers on them what are they 82 3 thats all thats on them

:)i had a look inside this electronic stud finder and found only an ic and a few transisters and resisters and no coil just the circuit board plate so this is like i emagine some kind of proximity detecter as the led allso reacts to my hand thats why the unit has 2 arows on it telling you where to hold it , the circuits led reacts really fast when i turn on my high voltage photo flash capacitor from many feet away, the led comes on instantly

:)electronics lab rules no wonder google brings people here , its the ultamate supream site in the galaxy

here is the latest details on the repair job, now to start with i removed the burnt out 33k resister and , tried another one but it arced around it so , i tried 2 different valkue resisters and they dident arc but the capacitor wouldent charge then so i solderd a tinned coper wire link , in where i took the 33k resister out from and i sliped some rubber sleaveing over the link , i then solderd another 33 k resister but this tim i solder it directly to the wire from the neg return on the coil and i sliped something over that to and the other end of the resister, i solderd directly to the return input pi and it worked great. it charges up faster and sure makes bigger bangs, so anyone haveing problems im here to help, oh besides coilguns you can use the charged up high voltage photoflash caps for bigger arcs by dumping that charge into an ignition coil or 2 in parrallel, ive did this once before with a charged up 350 volts 47uf cap that was charged up from a modified photo flash unit, and that electro wasent a photo flash electro iether, now i used a pushbutton switch to dump that charge at low value into an ignition coil and out of the hv output was a long bolt and spaced from the other end was another bolt where a wire runs from it back to the coil return , and if i wasent useing the charge in the electro i had a mercury switch for dischargeing it it makes a slight muffeled pop but as you use it more the mercury in its metal liuqiud form turns grey after a while and the balls of metal mercury will separate into tiny balls that wont jion back together like metal mercury normally dose . anyhow with enougth coils in parralell i wont have any problems dumping large volts into it for bigger output arcs , like a rechargeble arc starter , great for fishing and maybe catching worms m like the worm man did on the movie godzilla

:)with the latest high voltage photo flash capacitor charger upgrade, that allso charges , high voltage non photo flash caps , you may need to take note , the latest , printed circuit version circuit that goes around the ignition coil, that enables me to charge up capacitors with. works fine as a prototype and even as a printed circuit version in my other cap charger out of 4 but for some reason in the latest one after i upgraded the ignition coil driver to a printed circuit board version and the other circuit to that enables my to use the ignition coil to charge up high voltage caps with, im suddenly getting more conduction and ignition coil output than i ever had before , even more than the other printed circuit version ignition coil cap charger, so for some reason the 33k resister is burning out so ill replace it with a higher watt type , or i may have to exsperiment with another value resister

:)http://www.freeinfosociety.com/electronics/schematics/weaponry/stungloves.doc here is something that may give you some help or ideas

your shirt is like a dielectric, and the voltage wont go through it unlless its conductive , so you will need the voltage to arc through it to the skin or body, being a better medium for it to go to so your stun glove would be better putting out arcs. than just plain electrissity that wont go through anything thats non copnductive

:)without this simple circuitry you would have just a plain ignition coil driver with ignition coil and if you try testing it by holding the ignition coil hv output to near the hv return on the coil, to get an arc you will end up damageing the timer , and you will end up haveint to replace it alot , as i did before, i came up with this circuit desgn to alow me to charge up high voltage capacitors useing an ignition coil driver and ignition coil , no big diode chain needed at the voltage and current i use , and no hard to get parts for this one . unlike the other flash circuit on the net that needs a part that even our main electronics places dont have, and the npn power transistor well it lasts longer and holds up better than the static sensitive easy to loose n channel mosfets do , and ignition coils are more comon than disk shaped flybacks are , well here at least anyhow

:) the secomd picture dident post so her it is

:)heres the latest pictures, im upgradeing the second out of 4 high voltage capacitor chargers, the ignition coil version, and the pictures here are of the circuitry that enables me to use with the ignition coil, that enables me to charge up high voltage capacitors. now this circuit is similiar than the other one , and has 2 neons in it . the neons are at the front pannel and are housed in modified 12 volt lights these are modified by unscrewing the colourd lense peace off , then useing a pair of pliers you braek off the terminal tabs on the bottom , the actual metal caseing inside with its thread , for the 12 volts globe drops out and you insert ya neon . green colourd or red , now with this circuit when switched on wait till both neons briefly light up , well it will be tiny, but as soon as the capacitor reaches its high charge , one of the neons will come on brightly and the other will reamain dim , so i geuss the dim neon to may come on if i charged a higher voltage capacitor to but i wont know till i get a capacitor of higher voltage on the pc board are pins, matrix pins so the wires run from them to the neons , and theres no need to solder the wires directly to the board , otherwise you would have to remove the board from the circuit box in order to resolder any loose wires back in , and the way i have it if a strand comes loose it acts like a discharge antanae and if solderd to a pin you would easily see it if a wire somes loose out of the solderd strands and you will see it glow as it gives out the coronas, one of these pictures in the trax work on the rear of this simple brilliant easy to biuld circuit and ive coverd it with solder for better conductivity. i use blue tac to help hold some components onto the board while i solderd them in, it gets soft from the heat but is easy to remove when its cooled down, by useing another peace of blue tac to help in the removal of any traces left on the board , the circuit dosent have the 1n5408 protection diode in it as i put it across the output terminals that go to the high voltage capacitor under charge, thats the diode i have across the caps that have a neon with them but that neon is now included in the latest circuit here , well the wires that solder to the pins run to it anyhow