steven

:)hello dazza have you tried spiceing up the water with hydrogen peroxide that would give you more hydrogen and oxygen atoms then , for your hydrogen production , have you tried my silicon diode method for the electrodes yet ill get back into it soon , when i start work on my diode reactor chamber , the gas then would implode and not exsplode, like the browns gass,

:) a uf4007 high speed diode will do to, i even use them to .

:)any time im biulding printed circuits versions of all my testing gear so ill be very well eqiuped

:)i dont have an ebay account , even though ive had emails from ebay telling me my account has been suspended when i dont have an account

:)zapp101 i emailed this to mixos and he put it up for me

:)i just discouverd by ciuriosity that a 9 volts battery operated stud finder i brought at the markets today will respond to my high voltage capacitor charger up to 6 or 7 feet away so thats very sensitive to great as a high voltage detecter and ufo detecter to i bet

:)ill remove the shorted wire then that goes to pin 6

:)thankyou for your input audio guru the details on the ic are so hard to see that i have to use a magnifying lense in light to see it so how do you see it on the actual ic some 4017 ics are made by other companies to like moterola as the letter m on it others i can see but this kind of ic the details are so faint and hard to see it has ti on it

:)i did have the details of that ic written down but cant find it but static sesitive ics normally have cmos written on them , i remember this one dident have it anyhow when i mopve close to my high voltage circuits in action the leds flicker like it dose near ac but as you get closer they stop and stay on and at times they just come on both and flicker slightly as if they are responding to the frenquency of the voltage . have more test to do yet, but i even bring it near the static screen on the tv and pc and with the charge left on the screen it hasent blown this circuit yet so how it holds out ok is a mystery to me

audio guru and ante thankyou for the input, the decade counter is made by texas instramnts and the diode is being used by the circuit, i just pulled it out and the circuit went dead, and allso theres been no heat whats so ever in this circuit , and what you see in my circuit, i dont think ive included any changes or modifications or did i i biult this circuit and everyday been trying to improve it and ive had no troubles what so ever anyhow one of my wires link may not be nessisary but for some funny reason i think its helping the circuit.

:)

:)heres the latest pictures , one is the bread board design for this and the final decal work on the circuit box which was an ac power transformer box of some kind, another test i allso done was to have it near the pc dureing its shutdown stage and the leds respond by flashing and as the pc powers down , one led will be left on

:)when you switch this circuit on iether 1 of the 2 leds may come on, this is nothing to worry about as when you aproach the feild they then start to react to that feild

:)

:) in the circuit diagram , the letter l means link, thats tinned coper wire i used and the capacitor on the left is a tantalum

:) well here it is , i spent time every day working on this and it works great, now, all i have to do is switch it on and piont the ereal towards any ac or even dc voltage source, even high voltage , and the leds will respond. first of all if i aproach the wall switch the red and green leds start blinking at a certain speed , but the range of the response of this circuit is less than that of a tv set as it has high voltage in it to so a few feet away it will blink the leds , now when i aproach my high voltage circuits the leds reaction changes and they both come on and alternate as you move the ereal near the high voltage circuit, in this mode the leds dont blink like it dose near ac but will alternate slowly depending on where you move the ereal near, or they come on and stay on and slowly flicker ,when near the high voltage circuit. so this would be like a moveing charge detector or better, i used tinned coper wire from the printed circuit board that goes to the short ereal, and , the printed circuit board i made with the help of the alliuminium coke can ic printed circuit assistant tool i designed , thie circuit seems to give a great indication to the distance the electric feild of my pc so, as i aproach it with thew ereal the leds react a few feet away. and i bet this handy circuit will pick up a tesla coil feild from even further away or even maybe a ufo with a strong em feild to or underground ac dc power source

:)the holes may look slightly crooked but when you get it right you cant go wrong, that demo printed circuit board for a timer, the timer fits perfectly through those donut holes

:)

:)on the right hand side of the first picture you can see the demo version for a timer that i made useing this idea and i havent cleaned the green off it yet . once youve cut and predrilled the alliuminium turn it over and snad the rough pin hole edges , smooth

:)here is my simple idea which i have been testing for printed circuit board, designing , by the use of a home made alliuminium component leg, and ic pinout position stencil, first you need an alliuminium drink can , cut the top off with a pair of sizzers, then cut down one side, then cut the other end off, then cut that sheet nice and square, then lay it on the table ,and put a ruler on it, then hold the ruler, down and pull the alliuminium sqaure up and out from under the ruler, this will take the bends out of it . then useing a green scara or pot scrubber, not steel wool, clean down the shiney side, this will remove that clear layer, use some jiff or ajax to do it. this will enable a fine piont marker pen to take to it then . then place an ic mounting board onto it , and useing the fine piont marker , poke it through each hole in the ic mounting board, to mark the pin positions of that board , onto the alliuminium square, then remove the ic board and, use i fine shark pionted object , press a hole into the alliuminium where each dot is, this for when you use a mini circuit board drill to drill the holes . now drill every hole out, then after that increase the drill size and redrill so the holes are bigger by looking at these pictures here you will get it. now use this predrilled alliuminium square for circuit board designs if your useing intergrated circuits , and once youve done the drawing useing this alliuminium template all you have to do is use the dalo pen and if you do it right you will get it then , then useing a nail sharpened to a long piont, you use that to punch the hole in the middle of each dot where the intergrated circuit pinns go through , allso i have a plastic home made electronic component leg spaceing template for drawing circuits with for printed circuit boards , ill add this latter and i use it to draw the corect component leg spaceings so that when i drill the board after etching the components will fit perfectly through the holes

i dont really know the technicle side of the flyback drivers, i just biuld them from circuits ive collected and they work great but if you power one driver from a 12 volts lead acid cell with a current of even 2 amps or around that or maybe over or under it works even better but at 12 volts i even used a 12 volts transformer with a low current rateing and it worked ok to so exsperiment and you will find out which works at powering the driver and what dosent work , remember the metal oxide varistor to protect the mosfet , in the driver circuit its a must , in order to petect that static sensitive mosfet to .

:) this only has a few parts like c106d scr and led and 2x 1k resisters and a buzzer and a small easy to use sliding on and off switch, but like i mentioned i put a push off buton to open the circuit

here is what the electronics section of this simple swinging arm type ufo detector looks like , now the 2 wires sticking out the bottom go to the contact section , one goes to the pivot stand where the swinging arm sits, on top of the pivot needle, and the other wire goes to the contact coil, which the swinging arm contact, needle sits through it , and aligned so as to sit mid way in the coil without touching it , a ufo magnetic feild or ground vibration will cause the magnetic needle to pull to iether side, till it contacts the coil, then the buzzer will trigger and led come on. in the pictuers here , i dident put in a black slideing on and off switch as i plan to use this for something else , but for this detector the slideing on and off switch is easy to use without causeing the detecter to rock or move, thus triggering it off , so you set it up and line it up till its needle sits half way though coil then turn it on and onec it goes off it will keep sounding to you turn it of then line it up so needle sits midway through coil without contacting it thewn turn it on again , in the picture i used a push off push button to open the circuit and when i touch the 2 output contact wires its goes off till i push the putton so its very sensitive to mioster in your fingers to , and holding one wire then touching the other lightly the signal will goe right through me to the other wire im holding and set it off

;)thankyou mp im flatterd, even though i collect circuits for a hobby and biuld high voltage stuff , im not much for technicle exsplanation,s but it aint to hard to use a high voltage produceing circuit for things like a stun gun , audio guru is good at the technicle side of circuits , i just biuld them and upgrade and modify them and include new ideas into them

:)in case you dident notice the 100 ohms resister is under the board, to see the picture ,instead of downloading it to see it just right click on the black square with the red cross in it, in the top left corner then left click on show picture,