steven

:)

the circuit thats near that funny high energy electronic ignition coil, its 100 ohms resister is under the brad as the only one i had left, its legs was to short to put on the top of the board so i solderd it under it

unfortunately there wasent enougth room in the latest ignition coil version ,high voltage capacitor charger, pvc made circuit box to get the relay timer circuit in . so i had to make a few modifications , and leave out the relay timer circuit, that shuts off the chargeing process after the cap is charged up. i allso had to leave out the scr fireing circuit, but anyhow ill use the relay circuit and scr fireing circuit for the next upgraded one as ill have to make a larger pvc circuit box, anyhow here is the printed circuit version ignition coil driver circuit , and the printed circuit board version of that handy circuit i use to charge high voltage capacitors with, from the ignition coil . now without this handy circuit i was looseing a few timers due to some condition, here, which on another circuit useing the same parts for the ignition coil driver i wasent, so i checked the pots both 10k but one was marked as b and the other a so whether it makes a difference or not i changed one so they are both marked as a . then i put an mov across the tag strip where the tranny wires run to then to the 2n3055 npn power transistor. now i was useing an ignition coil but changed it to another one but still kept blowing timers so i removed it to and tried a different ignition coil an electronic high energy type and it seemed to work ok but even better when i put in the printed circuit version circuit that is used to charge capacitors up with through the ignition coil , and this seems to protect the timer somehow now im fresh out of 12 volts lead acid cell rechargeble high energy type batteries so i used a normal 12 volts lead acid cell battery , and now when i tested it the thing works even , silent and i was able to charge up a photo flash capacitor ok with a pritty big bang when i short out the capacitor

thankyou for the reply audio guru ive put a diode across the relay inputs for protection before , anyhow as i upgrade the circuit ill add any new ideas you may forward to the topic

:)the capacitor from pin 5 on the ic is a 0.01uf ceramic or 104 mono block and the electro the the left is 10uf

here is the circuit that i biult this from and it dosent include the , resister devider and any modifications but if you study it right by the pictures and details ive given you can get it right

:)the 12 volts relay coil has a 240 ohms resistance and its 12 volts, ill add the circuit soon as i have to get off line for half an hour

thankyou audio guru ill get to it as soon as can be , just got out of bed the relay is 12 volts ill have to measure its resistance and the resisters well the pot is 1m and the first resister after that is 1m and the last 3 resisters are 1.8m each so all these timeing resisters are on the long board

:)by the use of the 1m potentiometer i get an extra 15 seconds of capacitor chargeing before the time runs out and the relay turns off the whole circuit. if i set it for 50 seconds chargeing and set the pot to full i get 65 seconds of chargeing. without this circuit you may be able to modify it to turn off when the chargeing neon comes on , by use of a light deactivated relay circuit , once my tests are completed ill redesign the latter ignnition coil version cap charger on printed circuit board with the extra features , thats includeing the 9 volts regulater to power the timer relay circuit and the ignition coil driver all on the one board

:)

:)the 2 diodes allready on the board are only 1n4148 diodes and so ill still add a rectifier diode to the relay inputs for the reverse voltage protection

the latest high voltage capacitor charger under construction is an ignition coil version includeing the capacitor thats 4700uf 250vdc and an scr fireing circuit so when its charged the light will come on then with the push of a button the charge will be dumped iether into my mini coilgun or other but untill its finsished ill add pictures here of a relay circuit im working on to be used in a high voltage capacitor charger so all you would have to do is push a button and it will switch on the chargeing circuit for the capacitor for a certain amount of time , pending on where you have the rotary pot switched to , now the circuit i collected and made into a printed circuit board version is basically an off after delay relay circuit , and the circuit runs off a nine volts battery temporarilly and the relay is actually 12 volts and works ok in the circuit so latter ill use a supply voltage 9 volts from a regulater circuit and bleed the input from the main 12 volts lead acid cell battery to power the circuit for the relay timeing etc etc now the voltage devider i used here has a 1m resister and 3x 1.8m resisters and ive tapped between all then aftyer the 1m resister which runs back to the 1m pot and with the 1m pot turned down i timed each response of the relay to each position i switch the rotary pot to and if i use the 1m pot it adds more time to each resister the pot is switched to , im not to good at technicle exsplanationsss but this is the best i can do now i tested this by runing a wire from a 12 volts lead acid cell battery , to a large 12 volts electric moter, and the positive from the battery to one of the relay contacts then from the other relay contact to the moter positive then switched the relay timer to say the position that keeps the motor going for say 5 seconds till its timeing cycle is up then the moter switches off, now this circuit will be used to switch on the high voltage cap charger for any time i choose then switch it off after the time has ended so the cap will get say 60 seconds or more or less pending on where i switched the pot to then after say 60 seconds of chargeing the relay will switch it off by isolateing the positive wire to the whole high voltage cap charger . on the resister devider board ive got little decals with the times in seconds on them for each switch of the rotary pot and that dosent include the extra seconds i get when i adjust the main 1m pot. i did time each test with my watch so i have all the details

hello audio guru you should of posted this circuit agers ago to my topic seeking sensitive parabolic mic circuit , it may of been handy but anyhow i got it now so ill biuld it to if its any thing similiar to the last one

go to the high voltage stuff section , in electronics lab look at topic high voltage photo flash capacitor charger, now if you want to charge up a pphoto flash cap and shock someone , it may be to dangerous but if its gona be picked up with one hand only then all you need is a strip of foil down both sides of the charged capacitor and make sure they are devided and a peace of thin wire from each half of the foil to each terminal , so when its picked up it will shock , now its easy to charge up a photo flash cap but with the charger units from pocket cameras ive never got a shock from chargeing up a capacitor from the camera charger unit as they dont put enougth current into it but if you biuld the high voltage photo flash cap charger i posted , this sure puts the current into that capacitor so you can feel it for sure ,

to speed up the n channel mosfet testing, change the electro to a 2.2uf 100 volts electro

if you dont have a 10 volts dc 300 ma power supply for the scr tester you can use 12 volts 250 milliamps power supply. if you use 12 volts and more than 1 amp the c1066 scr i tested burnt out from to much current and the realy started flashing without the use of the push button so if the relay flashers strait away before you can push the buton then the scr is faulty or your useing a power source with to much current output, so when you get it right and push the button to test the led will blink and the realy flasher unit will click on and off . when you hold the button down to test the scr remember to do this for a short time only, of which is all you need to do to test the scr out , i tested the 800 volts scr out today and it is ok , if you hold the button down to long when testing out the c106d scr it will heat up so dont hold the button in to long

:)audio guru welcome back well at first i measured the voltage of the keychain laser button cells which i think i mentioned how much voltage it was before but because they are used batteries the figure may not be acurate so i used the 5 volts regulater powerd by the 9 volts battery that was allso used and so its actual voltage i thinkj i mentioned that to or not so then if the voltage drop through the regulater is sufficient enougth and with the voltage drop and the resister lowering it more then i geuss it did the job even though i thinkj i mentioned before what the final output is after the resister even though the battery voltage is not 9 volts as its a used battery so as for the current well havent been botherd with it yet but will get to it but the amount of testing ive done short range testing i have one good thing to say about it and that is that it is working great and holds up no worries have i missed anything

:)

:)

here is the printed circuit board version i biult today , first theres the keychain lazer power supply, and allso the receaver unit, in the picture of the receaver unit the 100k pot is outside the picture so youll know its there now ,that circuit has 2x 9 volts battery one is for the actual circuit and the other for the laser alignment led which goes off when the laser is lined up with the photo transister so when the beam is brocken the led comes on and allso any other warning circuit linked up to it

:)or look at the topic in the high voltage stuff section , topic high voltage photo flash capacitor charger, theres allso an ignition coil version there to and they even charge up non photo flash caps to , as for the emp stuff look through the forums here for mini emp box schematics or circuits , i posted the circuit there which comes from the free information society site on the net

a 1uf 50 volts capacitor will be ok , as for the resister 50k use 5x 10 k resisters in sieries to make up 50k or 2x 20k and 1x 10k to make up 50k, 56k may be to high it may pay to stick to the value in the circuit or within the tolerance range of that resister, like 5%

ill hold my glass up for the brains behind electronics lab any time , this is the best site on the net , 16009 membvers so far and climbing

intresting

we have small flouro bulbs to that can take the place of the tungston globes