steven

:)in that case just short it out with some heavey wire

i mean potentiometers just spray some in the little opening and rotate the pots so that all that dirt and stuff is cleaned out and the pots, if they are a bit stiff should be easyer to rotate then, you can use crc to

i used to use a can of wd40 the same stuff you use to free up rusty bolts on cars and get rid of mioster in your disy pionts, to clean post with

:)anyone planing on biulding this ignition coil version cap charger i just found out it , that the positive output puts out arcs to ya finger to but somehow when i hook up a capacitor to it it charges up great with no damage yet as if the cap has an internal resistance of its own

:)thankyou audio guru ill try that as soon as i find out if i can get that zener as i think 75 volts is the highest you can get here at the nearest electronics store

;)intersting saw a great wind power generater on the new sieries called beyound tommorow and the thing is wierd instead of blades like a windmill it has a big loop of metal and its twisted on each side to form a blade , if ya gona biuld a wind power generater ya would need it to spin a genrater fast when the blades tuirn slow would be my idea so i woud start with useing bycicle parts where the pedels can turn slow and the rear wheel turns faster or vice versa depeding on the gears and use this idea to make a wind power generater in a larger scale and use the fast turning wheel idea to do the same to a car alternator of which is used to keep the battery in charge then from the battery an inverter to change ya 12 volts dc into house hold power , there are other generaters you can biuld like the water powerd generater to which uses the old dyno hub bycicle generater and a bunch of spoons from k mart

:)here are some of the test results; photo flash caps with there lower uf values seem to take less time to charge up and the higher the value the longer it takes but the results are rewarding when you short them out and get the big bang , the neon charge indicater gets reallybright when the cap is charged up , and if i charge up my 1200uf 200 volts cap with its protection diode and neon with its resisters the first neon to come on is the one in the charger itself the neon on the cap will take longer to come on with this particular circuit but the one on the unit that comes on at its brightest would be the best one to go by rarether than waiting for neon number 2 to come on which means i would have to let it charge longer when the first neon comes on ,untill the neon on the cap comes on but its best to stop the charge when the first neon comes on for the sake of the capacitor so you know ya not over chargeing it to much with this cap charger , now for the power it puts into the caps or current well i use my split diode hydrogen oxygen electrolysisi to test it instead of the fingers , this time chargeing the cap up and dumping the charge into the electrolysis thing dosent make the orange glow and fiz, like the other cap charger dose but you still get the bang when ya short cap out but if i short cap out after trying it on the split diode electrolysis exsperiment the charge is gone so even if the thing dosent glow orange and fiz, the charge is still going somewhere so ill try it in the day when i can see it better

:)if you zoom in on the positive output terminal inside the box you may see the 330k 1/4 watt resister. here is the front of the cap charger and the neon is protrudeing out the white pvc pannel peace so ill be modifying that next time so it will be a green charge indicater light , by modifying a few 12 volts power indicater lights and useing a neon inside the globe houseing. ive done this allready and have 2 installed on the other unfinished cap charger that i will post when done

:)in the latest here ive made a few home made pvc 1n4508 diode holders as youll see so theres no crambing or parts on any board

:)here is what it looks like now . the 330k reister you cant see as the leads are in the way this unit used to have a modified high voltage polarity indicater in it , useing diodes rated at 15kv each from microwave ovens , but i took it out to do the leatest modifications,

:)while the latest high voltage photo flash cap charger ,with large 4700uf 250 volts electro, for dishargeing and chargeing, is under construction , here is the latest, an ignition coil version high voltage photo flash cap charger . now i made a slight modification to the simple ignition coil driver circuit, i added a 0.1uf green cap from pin 4 position on the main board to the bottom neg rail. it is marked as 104, to convert that look at the capacitor conversion chert i posted some time ago. now the ignition coil version cap charger was my single arc output type that has no return as it goes to ya finger and i used it to exfoiliate freckels or surface skin . so i modified it to charge capacitors with. now i used the same circuit as i did with the other version high voltage photo flash cap charger, not the driver circuit but the parts i used to it to be able to charge up the capacitors with now the diode string idea i was trying was no good so i added a 330k 1/4 w resister from the hv out of the coil to the terminal and from there i threw in the rest the same as i did with other cap charger well you will see the difference here ,

:)here is my revised cut down mini coilgun i used before with the charged up caps i charged up useing my high voltage photo and non photo flash cap charger

:)the white stuff you see on that flyback was to keep the loose pins in place through the pvc i cut and shaped to replace the broken off circuit board section,

:)the 555 timer and irf540 or 640 or 740 n channel ,mosfet and potentiometers are separate and not on the board so the pins you see are where the wires from the timer and mosfet and potentiometers run to . here is another flyback ill be useing in this latest cap charger for the coilgun now ive had to replace a section of the circuit board with pvc as it was broken

here is the circuit i use to power the disc shaped flyback transformer with for my high voltage photo flash cap charger that i use for powering my revised coil gun

:)its funny you should say that audio guru , the only transister in the high voltage photo flash capacitor charger is the irf 540 n channel mosfet and the only ic is the timer and the rest are just resisters and caps

:)thankyou for the humour audio guru , i decided to measure the outputs of all the high voltage units that are all turned off and with just the ignition coil driver with coil on, and starting at the bottom one i got a small voltage reading from the induction and as i measured the others and as i got closer to the ignition coil driver unit that is on the voltage reading climbed

:)ive made an error here im not getting 1.45 volts im getting 6.99 volts output from my switched of high voltage photo flash cap charger via the induction from the ignition coil driver when i switch that on , even though the neon dose have a voltage rateing of ,well in this case its pritty high for a for a 6.99 volts output to be lighting it , maybe i should try see if i can get more higher voltage readings by touching my meter probes to the neon serounds

:)after ive discharged the charged up non photo flash capacitor into my first coil gun ive noticed that the capacitor still seems to hold a small charge even when its suposed to be discharged , a serch on the net for anserws , and ive come up with some mention about useing a led and resister to indicate this residual charge left in the capacitor , anyhow i dident bother with the resister but i tried touchiong just the bare bones led to the capacitor and it blinked briefly without being destroyed, so the small voltage in it was now all gone but i wonder why was it there when i exspected it to be all discharged,

:)ive may of allready mentioned this but when i switch on one of my portable ignition coil drivers with single ignition coil in it and allso 12 volts lead acid cell rechargeble battery , the neon light on the high voltage photo flash capacitor charger allso comes on and that unit sits on top of the ignition coil driver circuit i measured 1.45 volts or more at the outputs of the capacitor charger when i switch on the ignition coil driver unit under it , so im getting some transmission of voltage here by the looks of it , or just induction from one unlinked circuit to another , and even more strange dispite my usage of the high voltage photo flash cap charger i exspect the 12 volts battery to be low by now but it seems to be still over 12 volts so why aint it getting low on power ive used it a number of times . it should at least be getting low , now here is a picture of some of my high voltage units sitting on top of each other , makes you wonder if the operation of one is keeping the charge up on the other by induction, i will do some more exsperiments and see if i can double the induced voltage at the high voltage cap charger, when i switch the ignition coil unit on and see if maybe i can recharge them all or keep them in charge by the induction from one high voltage circuit alone

:)here is the latest capacitor holder for my large 4700uf 250vdc cap i cut a section out so you can see its details well i need to fix up a part that sticks out a bit so re heat it to soften it and its done

:)the latest exsperiment im working on is a simple ring launcher exsperiment so as soon as ive got it all together and if it even flys a few inchers its good enougth to post it then , and powerd from the high voltage photo flash capacitor charger allso electro charger to seem that it can charge them up to , and seem that it works for a short coil gun i hope it works for the ring launcher , which if it works will be the simplest and smallest and shortest ring launcher on the net

audio guru i did use current limiting resister but at more than what the led with biult in current limiting resister can tollerate as like in the one transister version capacitor charge indicater the 1/4 watt just burns out so i use 1k at 1/2 watt

hello audio guru there wasent any arcing at all i had no problems with the 1 transister version capacitor charge indicater and its current limitimg 1/2 watt resister is between the led and top pos rail so ill make a few changes to the circuit you posted when i stock up on moe trannies and use the same setup but with the 1/2/ watt resister at the top rail after the led

:)audio guru that 350 volts capacitor charge indicater circuit you posted dident work it just blew the transisters after the led blinked on bvriefly for a short time now the flasher led has a biult in resister so without one, i used a resister and led separate which should still work like the one transister version capacitor charge indicater dose i tested both transisters out to confirm they are nackerd and the led still ok to , is this circuit from the net and has it been biult and tested .