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Hi John, You are right John the notes should be read first, this is not for beginners. However the schematic I posted is the updated and corrected version according to the author. I also found the datasheet but no source where this IC could be bought! Did you find any source for it John?

If the amp was rated 1400 real “whats” the input current would be almost 200A @ 12VDC! :o The conversion from 230VAC to 12VDC and up again to something like 2 X 60VDC would be ineffective and a wasteful. A 500VA transformer will do the job with plenty of headroom. You will have to (as SM2GXN suggested) find out the voltage inside though. And also a picture and if possible a schematic would be nice! ;D

Hi frank, If I where to power a car amp for indoor use I would find out how its internal power is arranged first. I don’t know about the one you’ve got but I seen a few and most of them has a 12 VDC to +- 35 – 70 VDC converter inside. What I would do here is tap in between the converter and the amp with my own PSU. This will allow me to use a cheaper transformer and avoid the high currents.

Hi Joseph, I suspect you like to build a power supply since this is what the old MC1466L was intended for? I don’t think you can find it any more but it is possible to build one (almost) with discrete components if you like. Here is how:

Dear M. Rajesh, Thank you for your kind words. I believe in shearing information and knowledge among everyone that has an interest. I also believe that every person rich or poor should have access to this kind of information for free. We will all gain from this! ;)

Hi ElectronicsGeek, Of curse you can shorten the charging time by increasing the current! But by doing so you might also shorten the life of the battery considerably! If you care for the battery and want to avoid damage you should stick to the manufacturers recommendations.

I found another one today: ;D [attachment deleted by admin]

I guess this is much like how most power windows are configured. You could try some Honda club or forum for the schematic.

Hi Kevin, Welcome to our forum. Is this the same as Crocodile Technology? In that case the version was 6.05 the last time I saw it.

AG, Can you see the circuit now? ;D

Hi dale, Perhaps something like this might help you? Electric_Fence_HV.pdf

You need the Visual Basic run dll file to run this software. Can be downloaded from Microsoft and many other places.

Hi Jack, Ok, I’ll add a PLC thread in “Resources”! Coming up shortly! 8)

If all the windows latch to down position on a short impulse it should be easy. Just wire them all together from one switch using a diode in series for each window and the standard wiring won’t be affected!

Hi kebloks, Yes, that’s about it. But, it also depends on the circuit where you are going to replace the transistors.

Hi Jack, I have a few books on the subject, how deep do you want to go into PLC’s? Shall I post them all here? ;D

Here it is:

Hi guys, I believe a PLC board would be nice, but I don’t think it should be mixed with the microcontroller board since they are very different in terms of use. Also a power electronics board could have a great potential! Aaron, I suggest you PM admin (Mixos) about your thoughts! ;)

Hi ia06, Welcome to our forum, The problem might be outside this circuit, there might be a sensor (humidity sensor) which is faulty. As Audioguru mentioned; it would help a lot if you could post a schematic. BTW; a humidity sensor might look something like this:

Hello Gary, Welcome to our forum! Thanks for your generous offer! Is there any webpage for us all to browse through to see what you do? ;)

Sorry, haven seen any ready made in black.

Hi tubbytwo, Just curious, is this a replacement for an old 90V anode battery?

Should be fine for the job!

Yeah, someone got it fixed perhaps they have paid the bill now! ;D Interesting replacement for the 78XX but unfortunately too clumsy for what I had in mind though!