ante

The variable voltage divider might also be just a potentiometer and no fixed resistor.

Hi stuee, We need the data for the alternator (Volts & Amps) and the battery (type & Ah) you like to charge.

Hi NanOp, The DjVu files can be converted to PDF.

Here is the PDF version: Print it and stick it to the wall! Wire.pdf

Hi Doc, Well, since I don’t hate you here it is! ;D [attachment deleted by admin]

If you got some space on top of the transformers winding you can add an extra winding here. Use any thin insulated wire and start with say 10 turns then measure what voltage these 10 turns gives you, the rest is mathematics a rectifier and a few more parts. Another possible way is to build a small galvanic insulated DC-DC converter.

Whiteout changing the compression ratio you will only get a less efficient and damaged engine! The ECU will delay the ignition timing and cause a higher temperature inside; pistons, exhaust valves and turbocharger (if you got one) are at risk here. Depending on the shape of the combustion camber it’s also possible to damage the engine with premature detonations unless your engine has a knock sensor. 8)

Try this one: http://rapidshare.de/files/29847262/the_book_of_vb2k5_the_ifcvbd.rar Password: ganelon

Hi kqp, The last digit is the number of zeros, 104 = 100000 pF!

Hi gogo, Yes it can handle 5A but not over the entire range of 9 to 25Volts.

Hi, A few things to note: I don’t believe the voltage will go all the way down to zero, perhaps 0.5V but that might not be important for you? The resistor R12 kind of decides the minimum voltage here and this resistor should have a 5W rating. R11 (the shunt) can be made by paralleling two 0.15R (2W) since 0.075R is not easy to find. The LM10 is a slow horse and the transistor T3 protects the circuit from destructive over current. Someone has written 42V on the diagram but the text says 36V transformer and the later is the correct value I believe. ;)

They might be envious and give you a fine! ;D

The closest I’ve got is Hameg HM1005 in German; would it be of any use to you?

What do the cops have to say about it? ;D

Hi, We need to see the schematic.

The piles of nice to have stuff have a tendency to grow over time. Once in a while a cleanup and sort out go-through-the-piles is necessary! Unfortunately it is unavoidable to find that some time after such an event you need a piece you have thrown away! :P

Hi AG, Ok, I see what you mean. On the other hand the ICL7107 is available in any convenient store but the CA3161 & CA3162 is not! ;)

I don’t see your point here! The CA3161 has 16 pins so has the CA3162. The ICL7107 has 40 pins. ??

You don’t need any transformer to switch up or down the voltage just an inductor or some caps. In case you like to galvanicaly isolate the input from the output a transformer would help though. A linear regulator would waste most of the power in a case like this.

Hi indulis, I agree, 100A is not easy to handle and there might be a better solution to this depending on the target for the measurements. This amount of current will sure require some heavy duty KELVIN CLIPS! ;D

Summing the inputs from this and another tread took me to that conclusion my dear Watson! ;)

You could rewind the secondary 5Volts (or 3.3V) in a computer PSU to 2Volts (or which voltage you want) and boost the rectifier circuit. You have to arrange a shunt and some feedback to the regulator circuit to obtain a constant current. There are different ways to do this but these are heavier and more expensive.

Hi Peron, You can almost always replace these two ICs with one ICL7107. ;)

If you’re going to power a cell phone which normally has a 3.7V pack there is some headroom. The phone probably switch of or give low battery warning around 3.2V and a topped of 3.7V pack can carry 4.65V so, between 3.2 and 4.65V will work. You might run it of 3 alkalines.

Put in your requirements here: http://para.maxim-ic.com/search.mvp?q=dcdc_all&an_1=Family&av_1=Switch-Mode%20DC-DC%20Power%20Supplies and you will be recommended some alternatives to chose from.