magatru

@EdwardM, Hi there, we meet again ;D Because they came in various model, so I take one example from branded HewletPackard (sorry, I forget the models, but it's from old computer - Pentium Classic series) the PSU labels says: ----------------------------------------------------------------- Model VL202-3515, ASTEC HP P/N:0950-2999 Max continuous output power is 160W input 100-127V ~ 5A 200-240V ~ 3A output DC Voltage Max Current +12V 4,4A +5V 20A +3,3V 12A -5V 0,2A -12V 0,5A +5VSB ----------------------------------------------------------------- I think for everyday user it's more than enough, for on/off ATX wire switch I'will post it here if I find some, thanks for your advice ;D @Alun, I have open the PSU case, and the input go to the motherboard, like I said before there are many models of PSU and usualy the branded one have different wiring with common PSU, where I have to put the LED's (with resistor) to check the on/off switching wire? from the input to motherboard? Because there only two wire from the on/off switch (the push-on switch type) in front of the computer case and it directly go to motherboard. Just guessing, maybe the switch send a pulse to the PSU via motherboard (the software can do this also) to turn on and off the power, sorry for my lack of knowledge ;D ;D ;D thanks in advance, best regards, magatru

Ho ho ho, for the beginners! ;D please send me a copy at [email protected] thank you very much in advance, best regards, magatru

Hi all, From my computer workshop I have plenty of PSU ATX and Non-ATX, the condition is vary from the burn one to the goooood condition (still in their plastic wrap). Usualy I used the broken unit to salvage the good component ;D, so I can used it to another project or something else, yes it's my cheap solution than buying the new component to built a project. Because they have variable output and look solid, can I make PSU for everyday user from it? Where the switch in the ATX form? thanks in advance, best regards magatru

@Ante, Why I can't download the attachment? ???

Sory wrong address ;D ;D the topic is here http://en.pdamobiz.com/en/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=225&PN=1l best regards,

@EdwardM, Hmmmm, the first thing come in my mind is I got the fake battery, the labels didn't prove it's should be. Maybe I should take your advice to buy it from reputable source ;D The DIY tutorial I describe above can find at http://en.pdamobiz.com/en/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=142&PN=1&TPN=1 and I have post the same question too ;D From your explanation it's need more than brave heart to open the case and change / subtituting the battery ;D Thank you ... very very very much, best regards, magatru

@EdwardM, Thanks for the reply, honestly.... I followed the DIY tutorial from PDA forum to change old PDA internal battery with cheap and easy to find cellphone battery, and succesfully change the battery without problem (using flat ericsson battery - T28-T39-R520 type and SE 610 with more power, yes ... you have to open the plastic case and use only the battery without the regulator inside because the iPAQ did have regulator itself ). Yes, I got the battery full charge ( from the iPAQ, tap at Start>Setting> System>Power it show charging procedure until full at 100% and the led stop blinking) also I did the common first time charger when it's takes more than 8 hours to left the battery at charger position even if the led stop blinking). Because the battery life will vary considerably depending on the backlight setting (it's the worse part which consume a lot of power) I try to ajust the setting in the powersave mode and hope it can be give more living to the battery, AFAIK the original battery with this setting can give you more than 1,5 hours of constant used. For more testing I left the PDA uncharged for almost 2 days, and I found it only left 25% of battery capacity, when I turn it on its show blink at the backlight then dead. This is the software protection to maintain the data if the battery capacity reaches the critical level to power off the device. 1. Is the battery has fake label in capacity? 2. Can you describe more detail in measure current - mAh from the battery using multimeter? 3. What is datalogger? Sorry .... if I have too many question, regards,

Hi all, Currently I'm working on project to replace the internal battery from PDA (iPAQ series 37xx and 38xx), because the original battery is very expensive so I'm looking for substitute from cellphone battery which have lower cost and have the same power (in type, Volt and close in mAh), everything work normaly until I power on the device, i'ts seem the battery drain so fast, can't last more than 1 hours. original battery : 3,6V Li-Polymer 950-1200mAh substitute battery: 3,6V Li-Ion 950mAh 1. If the case of low in mAh, why the same type for replacement didn't work well? (original battery for 37xx series is 950mAh) 2. how to measure the real mAh from the battery? 3. and last, did the procedure for substituting the battery will harm or affect the device? Because I don't have electronic theory basic, don't know where i'ts wrong? :-[ Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Thanks MP !!! There always be a newbie and a guru in everything, and I'm newbie too ;D

It seems like the etching tank is dangerous to built for beginner, any idea how to do simple etching without dealing with dangerous stuff thanks in advance,

Hi all, Can anybody help me using standard soldering iron to soldering and desoldering tiny component like in the cellular phone, and is there any what should do and don't with soldering (the electrostatic issue)? thanks in advance,