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Everything posted by loribennms

  1. In my opinion (as a beginner) MikroBasic is the best way to deal with PIC family. For one project, i search a lot regarding NEC protocol decoding and here is the result. Some vendors on internet offer for few dollars (<=10$) a similar decoder, but with RS232(TTL) output and with standard NEC. My remote control (from WDTV HD player) use extended NEC (16 bit address of device). The "decoder" check for correct pulses/pauses sequence and duration, also for pause between 2 consecutive IR bursts (if pause is longer than 120ms, the "repeat code" is ignored). I use the PIC12F629 in my tests (4MHz internal osc), but is possible to modify for other PICs. The results of decode : addr = remote control address, NEC extended (all 16 bits); cmd = the code of pressed button. If valid "Repeat Button" is received, last address and command are sent again. Data is sent by "SPI-like" serial, you can choose another way to use the results. Please excuse if the attached program is not optimised, but is working.
  2. There are many quality panel manufacturers... It really depends on your mission, space, and design. Look at the kPA ratings for wind/snow/hail... this will tell you how durable the glass is. Also look for series mounting voltage ratings, these will indicate the gauge wire and fusing they're built with. For large residential panels, there are several good options. LG, Panasonic, SunPower are probably the best in terms of manufacturing quality. For slightly smaller applications, but still in the 300Watt range, I like Mission Solar and Canadian Solar. For a van install, I see people using large panels, and there is nothing inherently wrong with that, but the larger the single panel, the more expensive your single point failure can be. Remember that solar panels do have a glass pane protecting the cells, and that glass is subject to wind loading. Most panels will hold up to a minimum of 100 mph sustained winds... the larger the aluminum extrusion frame, say for a 400 W panel, the thicker the glass has to be in order to sustain that force, making them heavier. I'd be weary to put a large panel on my roof, knowing that I routinely drive 75 MPH and have experienced 40 MPH head and cross winds on a routine basis crossing the plains states. Smaller panels < 200W, have less surface area per glass panel and are a bit more robust for the vibration and wind loading on a van. Please know that all panels are susceptible to damage from wind, branches, road debris, etc. I'd rather have 4 x 100 Watt panels and have to replace ONE of them every once in a while than have one very expensive 400 watt panel. For the record, I have cheaper NewPowa 180 W panels ready for install on my van. They're cheap, efficent, and fit my rack design easily. At less than $1.00/Watt, I won't be too put out when one inevitably get's busted by a tree branch or a baseball.
  3. I have to make a digital clock using logic works 5. and i can use 7-seg display, 7447 decoder but i have to make a mod-24 counter(3, 10), mod-60 counter(6, 10) using a flip-flop Anybody can this?
  4. I am looking in the code book to find what kind of protection I need to put on it I have heard that if it is a receptacle on a dedicated branch circuit located and identified for a cord-and-plug-connected appliance it does not need to be gfci protected but i cant find it in the code book and i dont know if it has to be afci
  5. Hey guys, I am currently working on a project where I am using PTC resettable fuses as a way of cutting of current to an output. However, the lithium battery that I am using trips before my fuse and thus cuts off power to my entire box. I am using a fuse with a 2 amp hold current and 4 amp trip current, the battery is good for 4.6 amps. Any idea where I am going wrong? Is the trip time too slow possibly? It has a trip time of 0.5 seconds. Hopefully someone can help!
  6. hello guys i have a project Consists of : 1- battery 2- Linear Actuator : SKA-01 12v 3- timer circuit I want to make the Timer configurable, anyone who can be set to work automatically The Timer is connected to the battery and the Linear Actuator So that when the time comes Linear Actuator works the timer should has a screen and buttons for hours and minutes and rest button to return linear actuator thank you
  7. I didn't know where to put this so, what the heck? I put it here. Is there any reasonably- priced USB cable tester out there? Over time, I have accumulated a lot of USB cables: A, B, Mini-B and C. Some of them came with wall warts and are very possibly charge only, with no data capability but they've gotten mixed up with all the others. Most of mine are A (2.0 & 3.0) to mini-B. My band has a cable tester that does practically all types of audio cables but I've failed to find anything that tests USB, Is there such a thing that doesn't require a bank loan?
  8. How's it played? The game is very simple to play. You just round up anywhere from 2-4 victims and each grab a joystick. When you hit the start button in the center of the game the red light will begin to flash and begin to play a haunting music. When the right light turns green and the music stops the last person to hit their button gets the shock. If you think you want to cheat by pressing the button early (you would never do that would you) you get the shock for the penalty. The fun thing is that each game is timed differently so there is no way to figure out the timing. This is great as a drinking game as the more you have to drink the worse your reaction time is. You can also make your own game out of it, like the person who gets the shock has to drink a shot. Does anyone know what's inside of this game that generates the shock when a person loses. Lightning Reaction uses 3 AAA batteries. How does the unit keep track of the order in which the buttons were pressed so that only the last one pressed gets the shock?
  9. Then the best solution would be to check on manufacturer toolkits. TI, AD and practically any DCDC converter manufacturer has some kind of design toolkit: you give the parameters and get a design with calculated properties and a BOM.
  10. Remove one (or both) wire(s) from the speaker and measure the voltage again. For completeness, make two measurements, one with the meter in AC mode, and one in DC mode.
  11. Hello, i am trying to convert stereo into mono on my bluetooth amplifier/receiver, since i am using a woofer + tweeter setup. I included a picture of how i solder the pins together. Right now the pot is up to a maximum, which means the pins are effectively shorted together. I know ur supposed to use a resistor but i am looking for a max SPL, even if the amplifier dies after a few months. The amplifier chip itself is TPA3116D2. The amplifier board is ZK-502C hifi. Problem 1: Even when the pins are shorted together, i get on average about 4-5dB less SPL than i would otherwise and i dont understand why since i am not using any resistors and pot doesnt offer any resistance. Problem 2: When pins are shorted together, the speaker amplifier will shut down and restart if the pot is over 80% volume. This happens even if the speakers are not connected ! I am really wondering why. Question: Is there any way to get around this since i need every single last dB i can get, so i cant lose even 1dB, let alone 3dB. Attachments IMG_1582.JPG 361.1 KB · Views: 28 TPA3116D2-50W50W-Speaker-Audio-Amplifier-with-Filter-HIFI-Level-20-Stereo-bluetooth-Digital-P...jpeg 361.1 KB · Views: 28 ZK-502C-HIFI-Wireless-Bluetooth-5-0-TPA3116-Digital-Power-Audio-Amplifier-board-TPA3116D2-50WX...jpg 212.3 KB · Views: 26 thanks in advance for any help
  12. I have a silly question. I want to control a 220V resistive load from arduino. I ampify arduino pin output with a BC639, I pass the signal through opto isolator MOC3021 and I try to use a BTA12 for the load. I failed. I have seen a similar schematic which is: I have made a mistake in the PCB and the connection is: Is this my problem?
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