jknightandkarr Posted May 23, 2019 Report Posted May 23, 2019 Ok, first I have a set of turtle beach ear force x11 gaming headset with the following specs: Headphones: - 40mm diameter speakers with neodymium magnet - Speaker Frequency Response: 30Hz - 20kHz, >120dB SPL @ 1kHz - Condenser Microphone Frequency Response: 50Hz - 15kHz - Cable length: 16 ft. (4.877m) - Weight: 6.4 oz. (233g) In-Line Amplifier: - Headphone Amplifier: Stereo DC-coupled, 35mW/ch, THD <1%, Frequency Response: DC - 30kHz - Mic mute switch - XBOX controller 2.5mm input jack - Maximum analog input level with volume control on maximum setting: 2Vpp (700mV rms) - 3.5mm plug for mic output - 3.5mm plug for line input - Weight: 1.3 Oz (36g) - USB connector for power (5VDC @ <50mA max) - Dimensions: Height .5in (1.27cm), Width 2in (5.08cm), Depth .75in (1.905cm) My idiot brother got ahold of my headset and not only ripped the wires loose from the controls output wires, but apperently also fried the controller... my question is, can anyone recommend circuitry to fix the mic and speakers?? Don't care about the controller port as I don't game online with xbox anyhow, so I only need the mic and speakers. I looked on project page, but since my knowlage of audio like this is non exhisting. any help is appreciated. Lucky for me the input side of wires is good, so I got a usb for power, mic plug and speaker plug. Meanwhile, going to try and see if I can locate scematics for the contoller. I know I can just buy new set, but I don't have much cash lately, so fixing them better option for me. Thanks. Joe Quote
audioguru Posted May 24, 2019 Report Posted May 24, 2019 Most of the spec's for the headphones are absolutely useless. The frequency response spec's do not say plus and minus 30dB which is horrible or plus and minus 2dB which is pretty good. Who cares about the length of the cord and the weight? The important spec for the ear speakers is the impedance that you can measure with a multimeter but you didn't. If the circuit is modern then it uses tiny little parts that are difficult to solder and unsolder. Quote
HarryA Posted May 24, 2019 Report Posted May 24, 2019 If you look around on ebay or amazon.com for "audio amplifier board 5 volts" you may find something that would be helpful. Like: Icstation PM2038 2X5W stero audio amplifier board 5v USB powered adjustable volume. They are quite inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/PM2038-2X5W-Stereo-Audio-Amplifier/dp/B01NABJTDJ/ref=sr_1_36?crid=2KDQ8EUT857T7&keywords=audio+amplifier+board+5v&qid=1558736268&s=gateway&sprefix=audio+amplifier+board%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-36 Sorry I can not be more helpful. Quote
jknightandkarr Posted June 25, 2019 Author Report Posted June 25, 2019 On 5/23/2019 at 11:27 PM, audioguru said: Most of the spec's for the headphones are absolutely useless. The frequency response spec's do not say plus and minus 30dB which is horrible or plus and minus 2dB which is pretty good. Who cares about the length of the cord and the weight? The important spec for the ear speakers is the impedance that you can measure with a multimeter but you didn't. If the circuit is modern then it uses tiny little parts that are difficult to solder and unsolder. I just copied the whole section, didn't feel like editing. Speakers are those really small cheap over ear headphone/small toy looking speakers, I think they might be bad...they measure 30 ohms. I didn't think they had that much resistance on them. Probly simpler to just buy a new headset n say heck with it.. Joe Quote
jknightandkarr Posted July 18, 2019 Author Report Posted July 18, 2019 Well, not worried about this anymore. Friend gave me a set of TurtleBeach Earforce X12 headset. However I do need help with a microphone. I want to make a filter for a 20 Hz and 20 kHz filter. I got the values for a low pass filter and a high pass filter, but more checking out told me that just hooking one filter into the end of the other won't work. I found something about a band pass filter, which according to the math, am not skilled enough to figure out on my own. Any suggestions on filter(s) for my mic? Joe Quote
audioguru Posted July 18, 2019 Report Posted July 18, 2019 Why do you want to reduce frequencies below 20Hz and above 20kHz? Audio signals do not produce those frequencies. If the filters are for the microphone then the microphone probably will not produce much below 20Hz and above 20kHz. Quote
jknightandkarr Posted July 20, 2019 Author Report Posted July 20, 2019 I have a cheap mic, can't afford much right now. Was looking up mic specs for stuff in like the $100 range and saw that they have 20hz to 20khz. I am in the process of rebuilding the mic as i had to tear it appart to fix a broken switch issue. Also hoping the filter(s) get out alittle back ground noise. Quote
audioguru Posted July 20, 2019 Report Posted July 20, 2019 A frequency response spec must include how much the levels deviate. Plus and minus 30dB is horrible but 2dB is pretty good. If they do not spec the plus and minus dBs then assume it is horrible. If you have background noise then you can turn down the volume. Using filters to cut frequencies you cannot hear will not reduce background noise. Instead you can cut all high audio frequencies to reduce hiss which will make words unintelligible and cut low audio frequencies so that guys voices sound like chipmunks. Audio opamps have low noise, "general purpose" opamps produce lots of noise. Your choice. Quote
jknightandkarr Posted July 20, 2019 Author Report Posted July 20, 2019 I will have to see if i can find some software to test the mics db freq responce. First then. Thanks for this info. While i know some electronics, audio for me is uncharted territory... I have an analog oscilliscope, freq counter and cheap saleae knock off, wonder if any of those will help.. Joe Quote
audioguru Posted July 21, 2019 Report Posted July 21, 2019 Software will not test the frequency response of a mic. You need calibrated sounds at different frequencies to do it. the manufacturer should have shown a frequency response graph like these ones: Quote
jknightandkarr Posted July 21, 2019 Author Report Posted July 21, 2019 Ok will have to see if i can find anything on the mic for a part number. That should give a place to start. Joe Edit. Checked mic element, and not one single marking of anykind... don't even know who made the kareokie machine the mic came from. Looks cheap though. I doubt that my freq generator would help much, so I guess i will just replace the switch inside since it's broken and just use it as it is, till i can just buy a good one. Quote
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