If you zoom in you might see that at the left side of the red arrow there's a copper wire running from left to right that doesn't disappear under the rubber black line that's running from top to bottom. That's the only portion on the whole board that I can see is missing. Curiously, it is at the...
Just to make me clear enough in relation to the missing part of the line mentioned above: I was referring to the dark (wide) line above the metallic lines running from left to right as seen in the perspective shown. As far as I could see after inspection with a magnifying glass that's the only...
Have found a broken line at the spot arrowed below. Tried to make a guick bridge with a piece of alluminum foil but it didn't work. Need to try it again with more care. Found something unusual at the chip itself, the two pins at the left hand side weren't soldered!
Thanks for replying, pharaon, Bluejets & Harald Kapp!
I've tried to use other working rubber buttons over most of the non working side and it didn't work; also, used some of the right hand side rubber buttons on the working side and it worked ok. So, I don't think any conducting surface on the...
For decades I've used a strong degreaser and tap water for cleaning these devices & almost always with very good results. Now, the right-hand buttons were requiring to push them very hard so decided to open it and clean it in the usual way: a small brush with degreaser, tap water on the brush a...
Thanks for this; quite similar!
Edit: All the information I could read from the part was T 1AF PN (on top) & - FB2SM (on bottom). I must make it clear that I cannot be 100% sure those figures/symbols are correct because I had to play many different angles and lighting for making sense of the...
Sorry for that! After using a good magnifying glass & cleaning ~ a dz times I managed to extract the info on the first post attachment of this thread. I tried to manage zoom & illumination before taking that photo but thought it was useless: that's why I chose to make a diagram with proper scale...
Thanks for replying, bertus & Harald Kapp!
I'm including the requested photos up there, hope they help.
Note: Spent more than an hour trying to locate a suitable place with adecuate illumination where I could mantain a firm position against the wind... Sorry, the tablet's camera doesn't help...
I took this from a sat receiver's board with the following markings:
GI DCT2000 PH7 MB
240684-028-99-RA
Made in Taiwan: WWEI 2MV 94V-0
The metal casing had a little rust and, after slowly cleaning it, it shows partial information as shown in the attached photo. If, in the case someone...
I used to be an electronic technician in a computer factory by the late 70's and early 80's, so I'm inclined to use my own judgement after considering all or most of the available data. Having said so, what I want is to gain access to the knowledge applicable in this case.
I know that Li-Ion...
Someone gave me a Zune device telling me that it was an iphone & I thought it was an ipod instead. It took 2 different persons trying to investigate this device & more than a week for me to get it right. Obviously, the batt. was fully discharged & there was no cable or base for it...
I watched...
Thanks, Harald Kapp, for replying!
This info is great, the only missing thing is the cables' colors for the voltages but that is something I can find by inspection.
Almost sure that I took it out from a Bose radio many years ago. Would like to have some info on this item like voltage ratios & current limits. Think it looks like it because there's a 'noise' reason for it but not sure, just thinking that it is for a Bose apparatus... See photo attachement...