Five pin automotive relay 12 V current of your choice.
View attachment 65202
In the modified schematic below 87a
Is normally closed for the right side Front and rear flasher.
87 normally open pin goes to the left side front and rear, and they will alternate right left instead of on off.
This is only an example, but it’s simple. If you wish you may put your diodes across The relay coil.
The anode Of the diode would be connected to the ground side Pin 86 of the coil and the cathode to
Pin 85 relay coil feed trigger wire.
The relay pin designations are reversed on the coil in the modified schematic below, with respect to the pictorial diagram above. My apologies for any confusion.
View attachment 65203
This helps to some degree but, I don't know how to read diagrams. I will figure it out on my test vehicle until it works.
In the end, when finished, this is my goal:
When facing the rear of the vehicle with the hazard lights on, the flashers will alternate from the left turn signal (amber) and right brake light (red), to the right turn signal (amber) and left brake light (red).
This will have the effective result of higher visibility and, at no point will the lights on the rear of the car turn off until the hazard switch is deactivated.
Furthermore, when activated, a rear dash dual rotating amber light housing will, likewise, turn on and stay on as it will be connected to the positive feed directly from the switch, itself, to a relay.
I'm familiar with standard electrical wiring for automotive, commercial, locomotive and building wiring up to 1990. Much past that, and I'm lost.
The railroad crossbuck flashers were the inspiration for this and I greatly appreciate your help.
As it stands, the interior lights and hazard lights are the only electrical circuits wired to key off power since I rewired the vehicle.
Furthermore, a single bronze strip runs the entire length of the chassis' left side and is the sole contact point for all exterior ground connections.
The bronze strip on the chassis' right side is the positive connection and both strips are backed with CPVC. The screws that hold it to the frame are run through the plastic, only.
The bronze strips are held to the CPVC by radiator accessory fasteners.
For interior connections, there are two bronze buss bars that are on insulated mounts on the firewall.
The headlights, parking lights, cigarette lighter, dash lights, AM/FM/CB cannot be used without the ignition on and all are on relay circuits. The battery is a single commercial AGM gel battery and all electrical circuits, alternator, etc, have been upgraded to handle the extra power.
Typically, there are between 4 and 6 of these batteries in a commercial tractor, such as a Kenworth T680.
However, since the power demands of a 1978 Buick are drastically below those of the truck, one of these batteries is still borderline overkill.
That said, in a static test with the ignition left on, it took 19:56 hours for the battery to drop below 10 volts from 13.65.
Due to the size of the battery, it was relocated to the trunk and is secured by hooks, steel cables, cable tension adjusters and an acrylic plate that has four rubber bumpers to better secure it.
The plate stands above the top of the battery posts by 1.5 inches and is not at risk of ever contacting the battery, not that there would be any concern if it did.
The battery also has a fabric housing with a heating pad and a thermocouple that prevents the temperature from exceeding 80⁰F.
I believe that I have everything covered and, if I think of anything else, I'll certainly ask.
Thanks, so much, for the help.
Also!
At no point do I ever intend to impersonate any emergency first responder.
I cannot stand impersonators but, if I'm helping someone on the shoulder of an interstate, especially at night, maximum visibility is a must.
