Probability of failure is a manufacturing and quality control problem. A 4-coil system
should "work real fine, last a long time, cost a little, and do a lot." Recite that mantra to your auto parts supplier and see what they recommend the next time you need a replacement part! The biggest advantage of a 4-coil system is it obviates the need for an electro-mechanical spark distributor, driven from the cam shaft gearing at half the engine RPMs. One less moving part to wear out or break.
Another reason I can think of for having multiple coils is higher RPMs from the engine. It takes a certain amount of time to build up the magnetic flux in a single ignition coil before that flux can be rapidly collapsed to induce a high voltage in the secondary. With a 4-coil engine you could increase the RPM beyond the speed at which a single coil could be effectively fired, perhaps by a factor of four if the engine didn't fall apart first. Red-line at 12,000 RPM?
My 2002 Ford Taurus with a 3.0 L V-6 engine now has about 250,000 miles on the odometer and uses an electronic distributor with three ignition coils, "firing" the six cylinders in pairs since only one of the pair will be on its compression stroke when the two spark plugs "fire" simultaneously. This arrangement completely eliminates the need for a high-voltage electro-mechanical distributor, not that these devices are much prone to failure. There is always an air gap between the rotor electrode and the spark plug electrode, and the rotor electrode extends to either side of the round spark plug electrode to allow for advanced or retarded timing. Not much to go wrong there, although cracked
phenolic distributor caps were a common failure mode.
My Taurus has never had ignition problems (OEM platinum spark plugs) until recently when I allowed my son-in-law to replace the valve cover gaskets. Looks like he broke one of the carbon fiber-resistance plug wires when he put everything back in place. I put the wire ends back together with a short steel pin removed from a bulletin board tack sharpened on both ends. Shoved the two broken ends together with the pin in between and covered the whole thing with shrink tubing. Should last long enough to get the car to a shop to change spark plugs, replace the spark plug high-tension wiring, and get that annoying "check engine" light turned off again.
In older engines (prior to engine control modules and computers) there was a gee-whiz mechanical arrangement, adjustable and sensitive to rotor rotation speed and manifold vacuum, mounted between the ignition points and the rotor shaft cam that opened the points to create a high-voltage discharge in the single ignition coil. You could adjust the relative timing between the cam lobe and the points to advance or retard the spark with respect Top Dead Center (TDC) of the piston in its cylinder by loosening a screw and rotating this contraption, which also set the "dwell" or the angle through which the points remained closed to "charge up" the primary of the ignition coil. You needed a stroboscopic "timing light" triggered by pulses sent to the #1 spark plug to illuminate some scratches on an "harmonic balancer" pulley, located near the bottom front of the engine, to see if you got the adjustment right. And a "dwell meter" of course. Some of these distributors could be adjusted externally with the distributor cap in place and the engine running. You just needed long arms to reach the adjustment screw, hold the timing light and squeeze its trigger, and bend over close enough to see the marks. Good riddance! The last car I owned with this arrangement was a 1968 Mercury Cougar XR7 (the one with sequential turn signals in the rear). Haven't needed to use a timing light since then. Or replace "points and condenser" which were always sold in pairs with a tiny bit of cam lubricant thrown in for good measure.
As for
@Panamera's original question... yeah, go learn about ignition systems. Is your four-cylinder engine a 2-stoke or 4-stroke engine? If the latter, which is more common in modern automobile engines, each plug fires once for every two revolutions of the engine crankshaft. During each engine revolution each piston goes up and down once, but in a 4-stroke engine it has to do this twice for each power cycle: once (going down) to take in air and fuel, second (going up) to compress the air/fuel mixture, third (going down again) to provide a power stroke after the fuel/air mixture is ignited by the spark plug, and fourth (going up again) to exhaust the combustion products to the atmosphere. A 2-stroke engine produces a power stroke with each downward movement of the piston, exhausting the combustion products near the bottom of the power stroke, and bringing in a fresh fuel/air mixture and compressing same during the upward movement of the piston. The problem has always been how to separate the intake from the exhaust efficiently, but modern technology (especially electronic fuel injection and timing) is solving that problem.
Two-stroke engines are making a comeback with modern technology to assist them, and several automobile manufacturers have offered cars with 2-stroke engines in the past. What automobile do you have? The last 2-stroke engine I had was on a lawn mower, or maybe a weed-whacker or chain saw, and required a gasoline/oil mixture for piston/cylinder lubrication. That's not a mechanical requirement, just simpler to build that way. If you are interested in the 2-stroke automobile comeback revolution, go visit the links on
this Google results page.