Switch problem. Please help

[Hammerhorror]

Hi

New to this forum.

Hopefully attached the picture okay, so you can see the problem I have.

Take it for granted that I know nothing about electronics.

I have a switch on a Bluetooth speaker. The switch is mounted on the board. I want to run some wires from the switch, so I can have it somewhere else. Would I need to use the same kind of switch, or can I just use a two pole on/off switch. The only joy I've had from it is connecting the bottom centre pole and the pole left to it.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Hammerhorror]

Here's the picture.

Hope I've done it right this time

 

[ramussons]

How about a photo of the other side? The idea is to see how many copper tracks are terminated on the switch. Hopefully, it's not a multilayer board.

 

[73's de Edd]

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Hammerhorror . . . . . . .


From the limited info given and if being a slide switch, if this unit is left in AB position the remoted switch can close A to C or open it.

73's de Edd



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[Hammerhorror]

As requested. Here's the picture of the other side of the board. You can also see the toggle switch I've tried to add.

I thought it was a-c too, and yes it is a slide switch (two positions) It does power up, shown by the two led indicators, but you don't get the tone from the speaker, so I guess something is a miss.

 

[ramussons]

Your wiring of the toggle switch is OK.
The problem is elsewhere as you have rightly concluded.

Does the unit work when powered on using the slide switch? If yes, the you need to use a 2 pole toggle switch, the second pole terminals connected to the terminals above A and C.

 

[Hammerhorror]

Yeah it works fine with the slide switch, no problems.

Being a complete novice, is it possible you could knock up a diagram on how to wire the replacement 2 pole toggle, with connections to the board.

I was looking up switches. Came up with these initials, SPDT and DPDT. I guess it's the DPDT I'm needing.

 

[73's de Edd]

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Hammerhorror . . . . . . . . .

Indeed, the units installed switch is being a Double Pole Double Throw switch.
Mechanically to electrically explained / compared , the assigned A is being one pole and the naturally " implied" A prime pole is being the one just above it. . . . .same way with the assigned A and C primes.

Now considering that the main units slide switch is left the same for both photos

In the OFF position:
In that switch position, I am seeing a "don't care" state, since the A and B terminals are conjoined together with that viewed copper foil path between the two.

In that same OFF position:
Look to the A and C prime connections and they are PERMANENTLY connected to the ground planes foil . . . .ergo another "don't care" state when the switch is switched to the ON position.
Up above at the A prime pole, it is being grounded to the common ground plane of the board, via the C prime connection.
The one thing that is happening, in the OFF position, is that the switch is connecting its A primes ground connection to whatever is now connected to B primes floating pad.

Switches manner of operation and internal mechanical construction:

Your unit will be the left one . . . . .

as per the statement of . . . .

If yes, the(n) you need to use a 2 pole toggle switch, the second pole terminals connected to the terminals above A and C.

Which would require pulling the old switch, because specific switch conditions are needed to be met in EITHER of its OFF or ON positions .

Since you now see how your switch is made . . . . . . . lets just see if this KISS will work.

Just position the switch plastic handle / tab to the mid position so that the sliding contacts are centered and not touching EITHER of their adjunct end contacts.
That accomplishes the un grounding of that B prime contact.
Then you go back to trying the A to C connection via your remoted switch again.

Aside observation . . . . . .
I guess that you are also remoting your POWER connection a bit away via the male and female and red black wires.
Don't see your ORANGE WHITE wired remote switch inter connections . . . probably just currently floating free ?

Thassssit

73's de Edd



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[Hammerhorror]

Thanks for all your help. That looks easy enough to follow. Was hoping not to remove the original switch. Bit worried about damaging the board. Got a solder sucker, so will give it a go. Going into town Thursday for a different switch.

Thanks again.

 

[73's de Edd]

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Read procedure again . . . . . . " vewy-vewy cawefully" . . . .

The sliding of the original switch to its center dormant position , takes care of the ABC prime contact action, in opening the A prime to B prime connection.
You use your existent "remote" switch, connected up, just as you had it before, to close the A C connection.
No solder sucking required . . . . . just solder tacking.

73's de Edd

 

[Hammerhorror]

Thanks to all those that helped with my switch problem.

Whipped out the original slide switch. Replaced with the suggested toggle on wires, and all is okay.

 

[Hammerhorror]

Thanks to all those that helped with my switch problem.

Whipped out the original slide switch. Replaced with the suggested toggle on wires, and all is okay.