florinanghel
- Jun 14, 2010
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By un-earthed you mean not grounded?
florinanghel
- Jun 14, 2010
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Okay this is a similar problem so I won't start a new topic.
I need to make a circuit as small as possible that is capable of producing a small spark. The spark doesn't have to be continuous and, if it takes a few seconds to appear after the circuit has been closed it's even better.
Now the tricky part. The power source has to be a watch battery. It can fully discharge at once, as I don't necessarily need it to work multiple times.
It's pretty important that the spark will be delayed, but I guess I can easily achieve this by using a capacitor, which is needed anyway in the spark producing circuit.
Can you help me build a circuit diagram for this? Thanks in advance!
I need to make a circuit as small as possible that is capable of producing a small spark. The spark doesn't have to be continuous and, if it takes a few seconds to appear after the circuit has been closed it's even better.
Now the tricky part. The power source has to be a watch battery. It can fully discharge at once, as I don't necessarily need it to work multiple times.
It's pretty important that the spark will be delayed, but I guess I can easily achieve this by using a capacitor, which is needed anyway in the spark producing circuit.
Can you help me build a circuit diagram for this? Thanks in advance!
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florinanghel
- Jun 14, 2010
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Sorry if this is not permitted, but... UP! 
florinanghel
- Jun 14, 2010
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Seriously now, I don't think what I'm asking is that difficult for you guys (those who know how do work with electronics). How hard could it be to create an electric arc/spark?
You need to work out how much energy is available in the watch battery you want to use. E = V x I x t. And identify the V & I available to work with. You need to describe the 'small spark' better, and where you want it to be produced and with what are you going to use as electrodes - read up on it a bit. Do some homework first.
Ciao, Tim
Ciao, Tim
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I'm sure there are people besides me who know what such a device could be used for and we simply don't want to answer.
darkman1969
- Jun 23, 2010
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Seriously now, you are asking us to provide you with a small, compact, single use spark generator design. If you think about it you will know why nobody is jumping in to help.
florinanghel
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Ha ha, guys, chill. If I were going to make bombs I would have been more cautious, don't you think?
But, well, if I think about it, I'm not that far away from making that stuff. I need these spark generators for special effects. The delay is simply for distraction. I'd tell more, but you all can probably already guess the first rule of magic: don't ever tell the secret. And, as I'm working on being an original magician, I want absolutely nobody to know how most (or, if possible, all) of my tricks are made.
As I can't prove you that I'm not going to use the requested circuit for, well, inappropriate activities, I can only promise you that. If that's not enough for some users, then okay, ignore me. If it's not enough for the administrators/moderators, I guess it's your right to close the topic or permanently delete it.
But, well, if I think about it, I'm not that far away from making that stuff. I need these spark generators for special effects. The delay is simply for distraction. I'd tell more, but you all can probably already guess the first rule of magic: don't ever tell the secret. And, as I'm working on being an original magician, I want absolutely nobody to know how most (or, if possible, all) of my tricks are made.
As I can't prove you that I'm not going to use the requested circuit for, well, inappropriate activities, I can only promise you that. If that's not enough for some users, then okay, ignore me. If it's not enough for the administrators/moderators, I guess it's your right to close the topic or permanently delete it.
...and that's the problem. You can't give us all the information, so unfortunately the design is left for you alone to sort out. It's those little details which need to remain secret which will more than likely dictate the end design. Little things such as the energy requirements, which are probably going to be dictated by how exactly you're using the spark, which would give away your secrets. See the issue?
And yes, I didn't want to offer up any answers for the same reason others have stated...
And yes, I didn't want to offer up any answers for the same reason others have stated...
florinanghel
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I already said that the circuit has to be powered by a watch battery (that, almost sure, it's 1.5v). And the spark, well, should be powerful enough to light some flash powder (the one you can find in regular firecrackers), so it's size is not really a problem. Plus, the spark must be somehow delayed for a couple of seconds or so, so that the audience won't realize that I just pushed the button.
Like, for example, I reach into my pocket to close the circuit, then I get my hands out and pose in a way that will make me seem that I started the effect by magic.
One other requirement would be for the circuit to be as small as possible, while still cost effective. The rest of the variables are not important for me, so, those willing to help me, feel free to do whatever you want about them.
There are no more details of the trick that are relevant to the circuit part. Well, it's not really a trick actually, it's more like something that attracts the audience's attention and makes them more interested. A gimmick.
P.S. If you have any more questions that you'd like to ask me in particular, for any reason whatsoever, feel free to drop me a mail (or IM) at my username at live dot com (giving my email address is okay, isn't it?).
Like, for example, I reach into my pocket to close the circuit, then I get my hands out and pose in a way that will make me seem that I started the effect by magic.
One other requirement would be for the circuit to be as small as possible, while still cost effective. The rest of the variables are not important for me, so, those willing to help me, feel free to do whatever you want about them.
There are no more details of the trick that are relevant to the circuit part. Well, it's not really a trick actually, it's more like something that attracts the audience's attention and makes them more interested. A gimmick.
P.S. If you have any more questions that you'd like to ask me in particular, for any reason whatsoever, feel free to drop me a mail (or IM) at my username at live dot com (giving my email address is okay, isn't it?).
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I don't mean to derail the direction you are already going but for high DC voltage to be stored on a CAP and used intermittently I use a very simple circuit(7 parts).
Now the limits have already been addressed it is not very efficient and it takes a little time to charge(based on the size of your cap) and finally you may hear a light hum from the inductor based on the frequency you drive it at.
Moving on the goal of my circuit is to switch on Q1 just long enough to almost let the inductor current saturate then slam it off(L2 is tied to a DC rail, 5V for mine). Since Current through an inductor cannot change instantly the voltage at the anode of D4 spikes and passes to C10 where it is stored. The process continues for me at about 400Hz and my small capacitors quickly charge up to ~1000V
When I am ready to release the charge I turn on Q2 and the voltage is available across P1 and P2.
Now the principle is the same for you but you need to modify the circuit I used.
(1) You only want 220V on the cap so you will want to place a high voltage zener in parallel to the storage cap. This will prevent the voltage on the cap from exceeding its rating and the level you want.
(2) You do not want R16. I use it to keep the dissipated current down to a non lethal(and non part destroying) level. You want to dump that current fast into your light bulb so resistor will only thwart your goal. You could however think of your light bulb as this resistor but at a different impedance.
(3) Q1, Q2 are not right for your application. Their Rds on is too high and they will burn out at the current you need to push. However their are plenty of good MOSFETs available at your voltage level with much lower Rds on that will work fine
(4) Depending on the DCR of your inductor you may not need R20.
Finally you need an oscillator of some sort to drive Q1. I used a 555 timer but you could also use a Clapp or Colpits discrete oscillator for cheap and easy configuration.
Good luck
Now the limits have already been addressed it is not very efficient and it takes a little time to charge(based on the size of your cap) and finally you may hear a light hum from the inductor based on the frequency you drive it at.
Moving on the goal of my circuit is to switch on Q1 just long enough to almost let the inductor current saturate then slam it off(L2 is tied to a DC rail, 5V for mine). Since Current through an inductor cannot change instantly the voltage at the anode of D4 spikes and passes to C10 where it is stored. The process continues for me at about 400Hz and my small capacitors quickly charge up to ~1000V
When I am ready to release the charge I turn on Q2 and the voltage is available across P1 and P2.
Now the principle is the same for you but you need to modify the circuit I used.
(1) You only want 220V on the cap so you will want to place a high voltage zener in parallel to the storage cap. This will prevent the voltage on the cap from exceeding its rating and the level you want.
(2) You do not want R16. I use it to keep the dissipated current down to a non lethal(and non part destroying) level. You want to dump that current fast into your light bulb so resistor will only thwart your goal. You could however think of your light bulb as this resistor but at a different impedance.
(3) Q1, Q2 are not right for your application. Their Rds on is too high and they will burn out at the current you need to push. However their are plenty of good MOSFETs available at your voltage level with much lower Rds on that will work fine
(4) Depending on the DCR of your inductor you may not need R20.
Finally you need an oscillator of some sort to drive Q1. I used a 555 timer but you could also use a Clapp or Colpits discrete oscillator for cheap and easy configuration.
Good luck
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florinanghel
- Jun 14, 2010
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@NickS: Thanks, but I was asking advice on another thing right now (check the third post on page 3 and further). I found out the light bulb trick is not worth the effort.
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