3-phase 380V inverter with EGS031 and EGP3000W boards

Prometeuszmal

Mar 20, 2024
7
Joined
Mar 20, 2024
Messages
7
Hello to everyone
I have this board laying around since few years.
Few days ago I took it and I decided to build it.
I have only few questions to the people who have already build this inverter:

1) Which current-sense-resistors did you use? the holes on the board are 12,5mm distant which allow 1W sense-resistors. Shouldn't I use 3-4W resistors instead?
2) With stock components could it be used 400V transformer instead of 380V one?
3) Always with stock components could the DC BUS voltage be increased to 60V to reduce a little bit the incoming current?

Thank you

Giulio
Hi
1. You should use 10mOhm shunt resistor whit the most Wats.
2. what i see people here use 3 phase transformer 24v to 380v. I think this should works but you need make fiew adjusments for this transformer. I personaly want use 3 separate transformers 24v to 230v,
3. In this case you need stay whit 48v because you will blow your mosfets, like i did.
For information, below EGS board you need mounted parts
RT1 its 10kOhm thermistor he should have 10kohm at 20C ( locaterd on right side of board ) This part its also requred
R33 10kohm resistor
C29 0.1uF capacitor
R29 shorted or make bridge whit wire
R34 no element instaled
C30 0.1F capacitor
R32 10kOhm potentiometer for output voltage adjustment
 

ryanwalker21

Apr 23, 2026
1
Joined
Apr 23, 2026
Messages
1
Hi all,
being in need of an inverter capable to generate a pure-sine 3-phase 380V 50Hz voltage (with a max. power of, say, 500W) from an AC single-phase or DC source, I've browsed around but after a thorough search I've found nothing suitable on the market (too expensive high-power UPS, or too distorted-wave cheap VFD)

Then my attention was drawn by a cheap pure-sine 3-phase inverter kit, sold around in Chinese marketplaces, made by two boards: the driver board EGS031, already assembled and featuring an EG8030 controller, and the power board EGP3000W, sold as a naked PCB instead.

The documentation I've found is very scarce and mostly in Chinese language, but with the help of an online translation service I've managed to get a clearer picture of what to expect from this project, gathered all the relevant schematics and found it suitable for my needs. So I've decided to take the risk, ordered the kit, started sourcing the components and had the 3-phase transformer custom built to my specs, hoping to find more clues along the way.

Now the strange thing is that, although the two boards seem to be widespread and, judging from the seller's statistics, many kits have been sold, nonetheless there's no sign around of anyone having actually built the kit and shared his experience.

If you try searching for "EGP3000W" you will find just lots of sellers of the board (and its matching EGS031 driver) but all the advertisements replicate the identical pictures of the very same assembled and powered kit, as if it were the one and only ever built...:(

Thus, the purpose of this post is to make "ripples in a pond" to find out if there's anybody who approached / built this inverter, or else is also interested in building it and willing to share our findings, ideas and doubts,
I'm trying also to grant more visibility to this project, given that there are no other forums around discussing it.

Greetings from Italy!
Roberto
Interesting project—those EGS031/EGP3000W kits do pop up a lot, but you’re right, there’s very little real-world build info out there.

From what I’ve seen, the main challenges tend to be proper transformer design, clean gate driving, and ensuring good filtering to keep the waveform truly sinusoidal. Documentation being limited also makes debugging tricky, especially with protection features.

If you go ahead with the build, sharing your progress would definitely help others in the same situation
 

robmar

Dec 8, 2015
17
Joined
Dec 8, 2015
Messages
17
Hi to all,
I'm the OP, returning after a HUGE period of time... So sorry!
I see that, meanwhile, other users have finished the board and got a functioning inverter, while someone else encountered some issues, thus I'm here just to add my last observations / hints that should, hopefully, clear any remaining doubt, and allow to build a working inverter, since the configuration I'm going to describe worked flawlessy and successfully for me, having by now built three of them.

I'm going to possibly repeat what has already been noted, but for the benefit of those with lesser experience, I'll try to be as comprehensive as possible, so bear with me. :)

THE COMPONENTS I'VE USED: (namings refer to those of the 'official' schematic EGS031 + EGP3000W by www.EGmicro.com DWG no. 2013-07-02, you can find the PDF at my post #30 above.

Note: The dimensioning of some components refers to a 500W inverter, since this was the power I needed for my purposes. We'll discuss later on which max. power can be obtained with this project.

POWER TRANSFORMER:
- 1 pcs. 500 W, three-phase transformer, primary 24 V DELTA (TRIANGLE) configuration, secondary 380 V STAR (Y) configuration. (See FIG. 1)

48V DC INPUT SOURCE (CON1 + and CON2 - input connectors) (See FIG. 2)
- Since my max. power operating requirement was of 500W, I've opted for a switching power supply 220-230Vac to 48Vdc 500W 10.4A
Using different sources, care must be taken of not exceeding the 48Vdc limit, I haven't tested above and wouldn't recommend unless thoroughfully checking the affected components for sufficient voltage dimensioning.

LO-PWR FEEDBACK TRANSFORMERS: (See FIG. 3)
- 3 pcs. single-phase transformers, primary 220-230 V, secondary 12 V, power is not critical, the smaller available, 2 VA is enough. (T1,T2,T3 on schematic) Take care of ensuring the SAME PHASE on coils when wiring them to CON4 connector, referring to the small black dot on coil diagram. So, when connecting the 12V secondary of the three transformers to CON4, on pin 6,4,2 you'll have the "dotted end" of the transformer, and on 5,3,1 the other.
Using the same reasoning, connect the 220-230V primary of same transformers to the main transformer outputs (a,b,c,n), with "dotted end" to a, b, c in that order, and the other ends connected together to n.
Remember also the 0.47uF 400V capacitors across a,b,c and n and, an important note, make sure that the counter-intuitive writing "220V - 12V" under the T1-T3 transformers did not mislead you since, visually, one might be led to believe that the rightmost winding is the 12V one and the leftmost the 220V one. Don't fall for it !!! The 220 side MUST GO to the power transformer, and the 12V side to CON4 !!!

POWER MOSFETs
- While the schematic would suggest the IRF840, I've observed a considerably lower heating of the heatsink using the 75NF75 featuring a RDS(on) < 0.011 ohm, compared to 0,85 ohm (!) of the IRF840. And although RDS(on) isn't everything in a mosfet, containing power dissipation is a good practice for starting anyway, then we could elaborate further on other models / parameters, depending also on the max. power we intend to squeeze from this application.

VOLTAGE CONTROLLER EG1181:
- I couldn't find that model on the market, but I was able to find the EG1182 that proved compatible and correctly working.

SHUNT RESISTORS 10 mOHM R65 thru R68: (See FIG: 4)
- must be open-air, current sense 1% 1W resistors, like Mouser OAR1R010FLF or similar, length about 12mm.


ASSEMBLY NOTES:
- Insulating, thermal-conductive pads are required between mosfet lugs and heat sink, together with insulating bushing for the fixing screw. In case, add thermal paste and after mosfet / heatsink assembly verifiy effective insulation with ohmmeter.
High current wirings: provide sufficient wire gauge to withstand the currents that are into play, for EGP3000W board 48V input +- I've used 4mmq (square mm) stranded wire.

Make sure also that R29 is 0 ohm (pads shorted) and R34 is not mounted (pads free) Other schematics around are indicating different values for these two, causing confusion and malfunctions.

- EGS031 board jumper setup: (See FIG. 6)
JP10 and JP11 closed (short), the remaining all open.
This means:
Functioning mode "01" (JP11 close, JP12 open) = 3-phase open-circuit independent, internally controlled regulation mode.
Soft-start mode (JP10 closed) disabled, when JP10 is open output increases linearly over 3 seconds upon restart.
Output frequency: (default) JP2 open: 50Hz, JP2 closed: 60Hz (JP1 must be always OPEN)

Other jumpers are for special settings, will cover them later, if needed

That's all for now, let me know if something is still unclear, I will try to help if I can.
Roberto
 

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