roughshawd
- Jul 13, 2020
- 616
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2020
- Messages
- 616
You know what is coming! The smart fridge is a nightmare of electronical devices! Let me start with the fool proof control panel(buttons are not refered to as the control panel in fridge's case but in this case I will start with the rexx system because of the title) This is a (smoke and mirrors tactile) press and hold system. Combinations of button holdings opens portions of the fridge controls. From 3 to 18 seconds can mean changing the control operations. In a nut shell: to many resets is generally not a good idea!
You have a series of conditions that operate a valve that controls where the freon goes(3 different coils, one for fridge, one for freezer and one for a special "beer cooler" area. They have created a single board with relays, networks, bypasses, motor controls and drunk mesmerizers, that demands perpetuities to get your girl freind a beer. The integral system, is hard wired to a WiFi node which mounts into a bar full of sensors and door switches, that is up on the top edge of the front of the fridge. Really really simple to work on. They get a #A1 for configuration and packaging.
They have employed the original N.American solution to their final design... a fully wired beeper box compressor control for the multi-cooling coils (one for each area of the device) on a thing they call an "Inverter Board" that is supposed to control the cold ... in seperate areas of the fridge, each behind its own door 3 Fridges in One!
The plug is a grounded US 3 prong, and the PSU is a second level SMPS PBA Con02 driving a 7 pin line (with one missing pinout) to the monster control board. The first level PBA Con01 is the compressor control inverter board that grounds to the plug driving a 6 pin line (that has 2 missing pinouts)... The water and icemaker solenoids and motors, and the defrost heaters, all get their power from the main line in. It has a block of 5 and I repeat fiver, parallel fans switched by the same monster board.
The SMPS on the block diagram tells me there is 5v and 12v there. They call the Inverter a MICOM, whats a MICOM? From the Inverter the MICOM compressor control is EEPROM driven, and the WiFi is isolated to the UART.
What is abnormal current? My drill down troubleshooter section in the repair manual lists the operation of the questionable inverter system as 3 or 4 flashes of an LED, which it was flashing 3 then was flashing 4 times; As an "abnormal current detection". This device(meaning the refridgerator...) is supposed to have a 'dedicated circuit' at the plug in, where there are no other devices plugged into that circuit.
It has a control sequence for operation... NOT SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC!!! TURNS IT ON AND TURNS IT OFF ONLY!
That is if you want the freezer to work, you turn it on, same with the fridge and the beer compartment...
by the way... a vertical tactile control panel is not always the best choice for buttons when you are required to maintain pressure on the panel for it to activate the control!!
But it all seems to be working properly and everything, except there is that dead short somewhere that has a 120v from the top of the cap to the body of the fridge!!!
How do you trace for dead shorts to the frame?
You have a series of conditions that operate a valve that controls where the freon goes(3 different coils, one for fridge, one for freezer and one for a special "beer cooler" area. They have created a single board with relays, networks, bypasses, motor controls and drunk mesmerizers, that demands perpetuities to get your girl freind a beer. The integral system, is hard wired to a WiFi node which mounts into a bar full of sensors and door switches, that is up on the top edge of the front of the fridge. Really really simple to work on. They get a #A1 for configuration and packaging.
They have employed the original N.American solution to their final design... a fully wired beeper box compressor control for the multi-cooling coils (one for each area of the device) on a thing they call an "Inverter Board" that is supposed to control the cold ... in seperate areas of the fridge, each behind its own door 3 Fridges in One!
The plug is a grounded US 3 prong, and the PSU is a second level SMPS PBA Con02 driving a 7 pin line (with one missing pinout) to the monster control board. The first level PBA Con01 is the compressor control inverter board that grounds to the plug driving a 6 pin line (that has 2 missing pinouts)... The water and icemaker solenoids and motors, and the defrost heaters, all get their power from the main line in. It has a block of 5 and I repeat fiver, parallel fans switched by the same monster board.
The SMPS on the block diagram tells me there is 5v and 12v there. They call the Inverter a MICOM, whats a MICOM? From the Inverter the MICOM compressor control is EEPROM driven, and the WiFi is isolated to the UART.
What is abnormal current? My drill down troubleshooter section in the repair manual lists the operation of the questionable inverter system as 3 or 4 flashes of an LED, which it was flashing 3 then was flashing 4 times; As an "abnormal current detection". This device(meaning the refridgerator...) is supposed to have a 'dedicated circuit' at the plug in, where there are no other devices plugged into that circuit.
It has a control sequence for operation... NOT SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC!!! TURNS IT ON AND TURNS IT OFF ONLY!
That is if you want the freezer to work, you turn it on, same with the fridge and the beer compartment...
by the way... a vertical tactile control panel is not always the best choice for buttons when you are required to maintain pressure on the panel for it to activate the control!!
But it all seems to be working properly and everything, except there is that dead short somewhere that has a 120v from the top of the cap to the body of the fridge!!!
How do you trace for dead shorts to the frame?
