Convert a 6 volt to 12 volt on my motor cycle . Any ideas how that's done

[Chrisbyrd31]

Need some help trying to figure out how to convert my motor cycle to 12 volt because as of right now it's 6 volt system it's a 1980 Suzuki 4oo gn and its kick start

 

[davenn]

hi
welcome to EP

you have a good reason for this I assume ?

 

[Chrisbyrd31]

Yes I'm trying to convert my motor cycle and I have no clue about electric at all . I hope the is ok to ask?

 

[duke37]

You have not said why you wish to do it.
Please post a schematic of the wiring, the one I tried to download locked up my computer.
It should be possible to provide 12V for ancillary devices but would take a lot of effort and cost to convert the alternator and ignition

 

[hevans1944]

You have not said why you wish to do it.
Please post a schematic of the wiring, the one I tried to download locked up my computer.
It should be possible to provide 12V for ancillary devices but would take a lot of effort and cost to convert the alternator and ignition

It is easy to up-convert a 6 V system to 12 V to operate modern accessories: just add a boost converter that powers only the added components. Is there a problem obtaining a 6 V motorcycle battery? Is the alternator on the fritz? Please tell us: WHY do you want to go the expense and labor of re-wiring your entire motorcycle electrical system?

 

[hevans1944]

Yes I'm trying to convert my motor cycle and I have no clue about electric at all . I hope the is ok to ask?

You can ask anything here. I found a wiring diagram for your motorcycle. Does it make any sense to you? If not, then changing from a 6V system to a 12V system is not your cup of tea.

 

[Alec_t]

So, based on that wiring diagram you will have to upgrade :- the magneto, the ignition coil, the CDI unit, the turn signal relay, the tachometer, the battery, all the bulbs and the resistors. Sounds mega-expensive. What advantage are you hoping to gain from a 12V system?

 

[davenn]

Yes I'm trying to convert my motor cycle and I have no clue about electric at all . I hope the is ok to ask?

yes OK to ask, but you didn't answer my Q .... WHY do you want to convert to 12V ?
when we know why, there may be other ways to achieve you final goal

do you think you can handle the schematic, hevans1944 posted ?

Dave

 

[Chrisbyrd31]

yes OK to ask, but you didn't answer my Q .... WHY do you want to convert to 12V ?
when we know why, there may be other ways to achieve you final goal

do you think you can handle the schematic, hevans1944 posted ?

Dave

I want to upgrade it to 12 V because the only thing I'm running is a headlight and a taillight I have no turn signals are not my bike is an outlaw bike but I keep blowing bulbs in the lights go down when you ride I just really want something different

 

[davenn]

I want to upgrade it to 12 V because the only thing I'm running is a headlight and a taillight I have no turn signals are not my bike is an outlaw bike but I keep blowing bulbs in the lights go down when you ride I just really want something different

so are you prepared for the lots of work and cost converting all the other parts to 12V ? .... that assuming they are even available as parts for your bike ?
As Alec_t stated there's a bunch of parts you will have to change and he didn't mention all of them in his list

I really see no reason for doing this, seems very expensive and pointless exercise.

now maybe you should really be trying to find out why 6V light globes are blowing on a 6V system instead. That would be a much wiser move.
There is obviously an electrical fault that needs to be sorted out, if what you are saying is correct

Now had you said you had a couple of accessories you wanted to add to the bike and they require 12V, that would be different and there are voltage booster modules
that can create a 12V supply from a 6V supply that you could use to power them


Dave

 

[Alec_t]

What I don't see in the wiring diagram is any sort of voltage regulator. It's no wonder you keep blowing bulbs. IMO you'd be better spending your money on a good after-market voltage regulator, because without one you'd still be blowing bulbs if you converted the system to 12V.

 

[73's de Edd]

Sires . . . . . . .



Looks like you do not live ALONE

http://kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/274042-keep-blowing-headlights?tmpl=component&type=raw

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110916084102AAuZK9X

http://www.ride-joy.com/DR500-voltage-regulator_10184289.html

SUZUKI GN400 | I have a 1980 suzuki gn400 that has blown all the light bulbs. the voltage regulator looks like a transister mounted on a heat sink.
There is just one wire to it that goes to the head light ground. Its a 6 volt system and i know the part is only worth 10 - 20 buks not $85.
Have not been able to cross reference the number on the transistor.

Looks like a temporary lashed mounting of a DVM to the handlebars for a continual monitoring of the battery voltage , then a seeing of just how HIGH the
voltage to the lamps might reach, at higher road speeds, might be in order .

I don't know if the old . . . . . greasy fingers to glass envelope bulb . . . . .syndrome also pertains, in not knowing if they are being Halogen lamps.


73's de Edd

 

[duke37]

There is a resistor allied to the magneto which is switched. Presumably this is a charge rate adjuster but without detailed information it would be impossible to see how this could be improved.

The simplest way out of the problem would be to change from bulbs to LEDs with appropriate control circuitry. Even a simple resistor would work. 6V should be enough and no need to be closely controlled. You would get more light and a long lifetime

 

[73's de Edd]

Mo' "Motocycle" Musings . . . . .
(I duz knoes hows to spels)


AN ANALYTICAL EVALUATION:

The left windings of that magneto is associated with the electronic ignition.
It being variable frequency AC and is DC converted within the ignition module.

Part of the magnetos right half windings are associated with charging the 6 V 4 AH battery
(Now isn't 4AH about equated with the "power punch" of 4 "D" cells )
And the lighting looks to be using variable frequency AC from a part of the mags right half windings.
BUT on the 400 wiring diagram that I consulted, there is being an AC shunt regulator that goes to ground from the light line.
All that would be needed is vibration . looseness or corrosion to corrupt that grounding of the shunt regulator and then the AC lighting voltage could go to max at max speeds.
(That's where the mentioned road testing and "lashed on" monitoring of the light voltage supply comes into play.)
To evaluate AC shunt regulation, the ground connection could be removed and then a clip lead used for grounding.
Get up to max output voltage and then disconnect the grounding, to see just how HIGH that voltage could get, without its shunt regulation being provided.

Now, some of the " you are a peein' " folks need to fill me in, but isn't there some requirement that if you park on / beside a small rural two lane road overnight, that you need to leave your park lights on.
We have no such requirements here, on the AMERIKANSKI scene.
That seems to be the manner, that the ( P) switching on the unit is being arranged, in respect to the way that the battery connection is being routed. to a portion of the lighting

No further info from me, until I see if the originator ever shows up again.



73's de Edd

 

[Firdog]

I might be late on this.
I have the same bike. The 6vlt battery is available but it seems to get overcharged and cook the battery in a year or 500 miles. I am interested in adding resistor or a regulator to control input voltage back to the 6vlt battery itself.
Can someone help with this scenario?
My bike is wired complete to diagram. Do not blow out bulbs.
Suggest a way to control or regulate the voltage back to the battery?
Thinking it shouldn’t be higher than 4.5 volts dc.
Thanks

 

[Alec_t]

Thinking it shouldn’t be higher than 4.5 volts dc.

Welcome to EP!
Actually, you need a voltage regulator set to about 6.9V to charge a "6V" lead acid battery.
Have a read of this.

 

[Firdog]

Yes thanks for the correction Alec. It is a 6vdc so I do want to be controlling about 6.9 to 7.2.