Florescent light bulbs?

D

Don Klipstein

Jan 1, 1970
0
Mine seem to last a longer than incandescent but I've never
kept logs. The light isn't as good as incandescent so I
use a combination in the lamp that I use the most. I would
like to use the flurescent in the ceiling lights but all
warnings say not to use them if recessed.

I have noticed that turning them on sometimes creates a burst of
EMF which causes a loud static if I have the radio on. I do
not know if this is going through the house wiring or the air.

Another odd behavior of the flourescent is the reaction of
my radio's display to it. The radio display brightens or
dims depending on whether it thinks it's daytime.
Incandescent causes the display to brighten; fluerescent does
not.

That makes me suspect that the sensor is a phototransistor that senses
only infrared, or maybe infrared to mid-red. Compact fluorescents do not
produce much at wavelengths longer than their 611 nm orange-red very
narrow phosphor band.

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])
 
R

Rich Grise, Plainclothes Hippie

Jan 1, 1970
0
Mobil ? phones !

I guess the guys at the Exxon station might object a little there. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich
 
D

Don Klipstein

Jan 1, 1970
0
The local Big Lots had a sale once: 4-pack of 25W (roughly equivalent
to 100W incandescent) compact fluorescents for $2. I bought about 10
packages (40 bulbs).

They're white lights, too - not the yellow ones that you commonly find.
Only other brand I know of that gives white light is Sylvania (hard to
find - from Lowe's) - and we've tried a bunch.

Not sure if there's a Big Lots in your area, but it's worth a shot.

Various color compact fluorescents are available from online sellers
such as bulbs.com.

Also, Home Depot recently started selling N:Vision brand ones that come
in 3 different colors in most wattages:

"Soft White" - the usual 2700K.

"Bright White" - 3500K, a "whiter shade of warm white". That is my
favorite.

"Daylight" - which for these is 5500K, very slightly bluish to sometimes
appearing pure white, not as bluish as 6500K.

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])
 
D

Don Klipstein

Jan 1, 1970
0
I didn't like the yellowish tint of a pack I bought. Then I noticed at
the
store that that particular brand comes in 3 different color
temperatures
(and they had a live side-by-side display so you could evaluate them).
I don't remember the brand, but if anyone cares I can look it up.

And not all "75W" CFLs have the same lumen rating.

I did notice a slight inverse correlation between color temperature and
efficiency (more properly "luminous efficacy"), especially once color
temperature gets past 4100 K.

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])
 
D

Don Klipstein

Jan 1, 1970
0
I've gotten excellent service from most brands of CFL, which I've
relied on nearly exclusively for the past many (8-9?) years. Mine are
mostly ceiling-mounted, down-facing, without enclosures (thus avoiding
early death by self-heating).

Some brands, frequently cycled, failed very prematurely. Others have
lasted me years and years of daily use even in the bathroom, where the
light's constantly going on and off.

For me, the bulbs are flat out cheaper to buy, even costing 5x,
because they outlast incandescents by a greater factor. On top of
that, using, for example, a 13W CFL in place of a 75W incandescent
saves roughly 62W x 5,000 hours = 310KWh of electricity over the life
of the bulb, which would've cost me 310KWh x 12.8 cents, or about $40.
CFLs are much cheaper to operate.

Usually it takes at least 18 watts of CFL to match the luminous output
of a 75 watt incandescent, unless the incandescent is "super long life"
rated to last at least 3500 hours or "industrial service" or the like,
or an off-brand one like those available at dollar stores (includes
Sunbeam and Polaroid in my experience).

I would like people to beware that some claims of how much less wattage
can be consumed by using a CFL are on the optimistic side. My experience
says on an average CFLs need 30% of the wattage of the incandescents that
they are replacing, 25% minimum usually, to match the light output of
the incandescents.

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])
 
D

Don Klipstein

Jan 1, 1970
0
On Thu, 07 Dec 2006 21:51:52 GMT, Jonathan Kirwan

<trimmed complaint about unreliable CCFL lights>

Please use the correct acronym - we have been talking about CFLs,
compact fluorescent lamps.

CCFL is cold cathode fluorescent lamp, which the usual household use
compacts are not. (One exception - N:Vision's 3-watt candelabra base does
appear to me to be cold cathode. BTW, the nominally 4-watt candelabra
base ones are hot cathode.)

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])
 
D

Don Klipstein

Jan 1, 1970
0
In 1992 there was an announcement or two about something called the "E
bulb" It was supposed to be an RF excited fluorescent lamp - ala
Tesla style. The idea was to have the electronics in the base with a
glass covered coil extending into the bulb envelope. No electrodes to
wear no filaments to burn out.

Searching on "RF lightbulb" yielded a (very) few hits on it.

The marketed ones are usually called "induction lamps".

Examples:

Philips "QL"
Sylvania's "Icetron"
GE's "Genura"

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])
 
T

Troia

Jan 1, 1970
0
Don said:
Various color compact fluorescents are available from online sellers
such as bulbs.com.

Also, Home Depot recently started selling N:Vision brand ones that come
in 3 different colors in most wattages:

"Soft White" - the usual 2700K.

"Bright White" - 3500K, a "whiter shade of warm white". That is my
favorite.

"Daylight" - which for these is 5500K, very slightly bluish to sometimes
appearing pure white, not as bluish as 6500K.

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])

I like the Sylvania bulbs too, but can find them easily at a local
pharmacy and some supermarket chains (in the Pacific NW.)

-- Troia
 
D

Don Klipstein

Jan 1, 1970
0
In <[email protected]>, CoreyWhite says:

"Last longer and use less energy" v. "cost more". This is what's
called a "trade-off".


They're doing a damn poor job. Not only can I buy them at Home Depot,
Target, Menard's, and my local grocery store, but my parents and
grandparents were able to do so as well.


Okay, so they're not keeping them off the market then. Glad to have
you confirm that.


It sounds as if they're worth more if they'll last longer. (It seems
to me that I've heard that there is a light bulb, made by Edison, that
has been continuously burning since he made it. I can't find a citation
for it, though.)

Edison did not make it, but other than that it's true:

http://www.centennialbulb.org/

Its energy efficiency is probably horrible.

European 230V lightbulbs operated at 120V can easily last a century, but
with something like 1/4 of the energy efficiency of 120V incandescents
operated at 120V, maybe even a little less!

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])
 
J

Jonathan Kirwan

Jan 1, 1970
0
Is this a recessed ceiling fixture?

Yes, it is. Those 1970's style swivel things with a brass finish. I
use a very long rod to reach up that high, with a suction cup on the
end of the extention that is moistened to grip.
Those build up heat and are hard on compact fluorescents.

At <20 watts, though? These are 65-watt-equivalent-lumen types, with
the standard shaped bulb outside for gripping correctly. The coiled
glass envelope, phosphor-rare-earth coated, is in the interior of that
outer glass, flatish surfaced bulb that fits my grip. The
incandescents were 65 watts apiece and must have generated a lot more
heat up there in years gone by (and in my comparison incandescent that
I placed there.)
For that matter, some compact fluorescents brag
about being specifically rated to use in recessed ceiling fixtures. Such
includes the 15, 20 and non-dimmable 23 watt ones of Philips SLS series.
Philips did say that the 25 and the dimmable 23 are not rated for use in
recessed ceiling fixtures.

I'll look more closely. This switch I'm using here is a dimmer type,
too. This could be another confounding issue, in my case.
I can say where and when compact fluorescents appear to me prone to
short life:
Thanks.

1) When on-time is short. As I hear it, "standard conditions" for life
expectancy include 3 hours per start. So I expect a fair chance of short
life expectancy compared to incandescents in motion sensor lights,
closets, restrooms used mainly for short trips, and refrigerators.

We keep the livingroom lights on, usually with the dimmer set to full
(I don't often dim), for more than 3 hours a day. And usually, most
of it in one sitting (evening.)
2) Higher wattage CFL in small enclosed fixture, due to heat buildup.

These are as described above.
3) If the CFL is a problem-prone one, such as (according to my
experience) 25 watt spirals of GE and LOA brands made around 2001, LOA
45 watt ones, and LOA "Q-Lites" from the early 1990's. Also I have seen
"dollar store" ones have a significant rate of spectacular infant
mortality, as well as never achieving claimed light output (sometimes
low by a factor of 3) and sometimes not achieving stated color.

Getting these bulbs from Costco and they are branded as described in
an earlier post.
4) I hear of a few complaints of the Commercial Electric 42 watt spiral
dying young when operated base-up. I suspect the problem here is heat.

Could be, but I've cracked two from the living room ceiling lights and
looked at the electronics and used my nose. They seem unburned. But
I could do a better post-mortem than I have. Have to wait another
cycle, though.

I have other situations around the house with a single switch (no
dimmers) and several fixtures, where I can add to the testing process.
Some are one end up, some the opposite. I'll start keeping logs.

What first got me onto this whole thing was that I bought this place
and moved in, early 2002. When we took over, there were two
incandescents in the livingroom ceiling. I replaced it with a new
CFL, fresh bought because I had to look for those funny ones that I
could mount at such a height via this pole contraption. Later, that
very CFL went dead on me. The incandescent was still working. And it
was the one the prior owners had placed there. So I replaced it,
again. The next CFL burned out, too, before the incandescent finally
went. With two CFLs dead in the same socket, an incandescent still
running for some time yet, I began to have my very first questions
about it. (This period of time was, perhaps, a calendar period of two
years.)

Since then, I've found this experience in a few other places around
the house, as well. Not as clear, to me. But definitely where I have
replaced a CFL a 2nd time (meaning that I am _positive_ that the
incandescent nearby is lasting longer) before having to replace the
incandescent. Some of these are older incandescents (from the earlier
owner, some are ones I've had in boxes and used recently.) I don't
think I've purchased _any_ incandescents since moving here, so all of
them are made prior to 2002.

That was my motivation and my experience leading me to begin, for the
first time, to wonder about whether or not these things actually do
last as long as they say or if perhaps the incandescents last a lot
longer than they say. Thinking backwards on this, I have to say that
the CFLs I've had 'go bad' on me must have failed to meet their hours,
rather than the incandescents lasting so much longer than rated. The
CFLs are, looking at the packaging, rated for 8,000 hours. So that's
almost a full year of _ON_ time. And I _know_ for certain that they
failed in less operational hours than that. The incandescent in the
living room lasted perhaps two years of use after we moved it and I
don't know how long, before that. That _may_ be just about its rated
life, given our use. Or perhaps a little better, though I'm guessing.
But it is way below the CFL's rating.

It is turning out, I think, that perhaps CFLs are more limited in the
areas they can be effectively used, as rated. If you are saying that
some are rated for my ceiling use, and some aren't, this is something
I've never needed to worry about before regarding incandescents -- so
this is new information to me. And it complicates the buying process
for CFLs, while not complicating it for incandescents.

Interesting, though.

Thanks,
Jon
 
D

Don Klipstein

Jan 1, 1970
0
Rich Grise wrote: said:
Nah - gasoline doesn't ignite by cigarette - not even the vapor. I
saw some guy who was working on a gas tank; he had taken it out of
the car, and dumped all the gasoline into a 5 gal. bucket (it was
only about an inch or so deep.) He was smoking. I asked, "Is it true that
a cigarette won't light gas?" and he kind of sneered at me, and flicked
his stub into the bucket of gasoline. It went "Fsst!" and went out.

I didn't find out if he poured that quart or so of gasoline (with the
butt in it) back into the tank. ;-)

I know gasoline usually cannot be ignited by a cigarette, but the
temperature of the burning tobacco is not always the same! Also, gasoline
formulations vary, and so may the temperature required to ignite the
vapor.

On the other hand, diesel's vapors do not reach a flammable
concentration in ordinary situations - toss a burning match into a bucket
of diesel and it will go out. (Then again, I prefer to not bet my life
or lack of a hospital visit that the forces of Murphy's Law won't find a
way to make something go wrong.)

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])
 
E

Eeyore

Jan 1, 1970
0
Don said:
On the other hand, diesel's vapors do not reach a flammable
concentration in ordinary situations - toss a burning match into a bucket
of diesel and it will go out. (Then again, I prefer to not bet my life
or lack of a hospital visit that the forces of Murphy's Law won't find a
way to make something go wrong.)

The Ladbroke Grove rail crash showed how diesel burns very well if the impact is
so serious that an aerosol mist results.

Graham
 
D

Don Klipstein

Jan 1, 1970
0
Yes, it is. Those 1970's style swivel things with a brass finish. I
use a very long rod to reach up that high, with a suction cup on the
end of the extention that is moistened to grip.


At <20 watts, though? These are 65-watt-equivalent-lumen types, with
the standard shaped bulb outside for gripping correctly.

Yes, heat buildup in recessed ceiling fixtures can be a problem with a
20 watt compact fluorescent.

Keep in mind that a compact fluorescent produces much less infrared in
the 700-2000 nm range than incandescents do, and a higher percentage of
the input energy becomes conducted/convected heat.

In one trial, I had a fixture experience a slightly greater temperature
rise with a 42 watt compact fluorescent than with a 60 watt incandescent.

Also, compact fluorescents do not withstand heat as well as
incandescents do.
The coiled glass envelope, phosphor-rare-earth coated, is in the interior
of that outer glass, flatish surfaced bulb that fits my grip. The
incandescents were 65 watts apiece and must have generated a lot more
heat up there in years gone by (and in my comparison incandescent that
I placed there.)

Yes more heat, but not proportionately more heating of the fixture. The
incandescent produces infrared - much of which escapes the fixture. That
escaping infrared will heat the room and the building, but heat not the
fixture on its way out.
I'll look more closely. This switch I'm using here is a dimmer type,
too. This could be another confounding issue, in my case.


We keep the livingroom lights on, usually with the dimmer set to full
(I don't often dim), for more than 3 hours a day. And usually, most
of it in one sitting (evening.)


These are as described above.


Getting these bulbs from Costco and they are branded as described in
an earlier post.


Could be, but I've cracked two from the living room ceiling lights and
looked at the electronics and used my nose. They seem unburned. But
I could do a better post-mortem than I have. Have to wait another
cycle, though.

I suspect most likely a semiconductor failing short (does not always
explode and often does not burn), or the smoothing capacitor shorting
(sometimes leaks or "vents"/pops, sometimes just blows an internal fuse).
I have other situations around the house with a single switch (no
dimmers) and several fixtures, where I can add to the testing process.
Some are one end up, some the opposite. I'll start keeping logs.

What first got me onto this whole thing was that I bought this place
and moved in, early 2002. When we took over, there were two
incandescents in the livingroom ceiling. I replaced it with a new
CFL, fresh bought because I had to look for those funny ones that I
could mount at such a height via this pole contraption. Later, that
very CFL went dead on me. The incandescent was still working. And it
was the one the prior owners had placed there. So I replaced it,
again. The next CFL burned out, too, before the incandescent finally
went. With two CFLs dead in the same socket, an incandescent still
running for some time yet, I began to have my very first questions
about it. (This period of time was, perhaps, a calendar period of two
years.)

Since then, I've found this experience in a few other places around
the house, as well. Not as clear, to me. But definitely where I have
replaced a CFL a 2nd time (meaning that I am _positive_ that the
incandescent nearby is lasting longer) before having to replace the
incandescent. Some of these are older incandescents (from the earlier
owner, some are ones I've had in boxes and used recently.) I don't
think I've purchased _any_ incandescents since moving here, so all of
them are made prior to 2002.

They may be super long life incandescents. If so, their light output
is less than those of "standard life".
That was my motivation and my experience leading me to begin, for the
first time, to wonder about whether or not these things actually do
last as long as they say or if perhaps the incandescents last a lot
longer than they say.

I hear enough complaints about incandescents falling short of claimed
life expectancy also, although more from compact fluorescents. There have
been a few bad runs of CFLs, some get used in thermally hostile
environments, and plenty have average on-time per start a lot less than
the "standard test condition" of 3 hours.
Thinking backwards on this, I have to say that
the CFLs I've had 'go bad' on me must have failed to meet their hours,
rather than the incandescents lasting so much longer than rated.

I do expect CFLs will on average fall short of claimed life expectancy
due to common usage with average ontime per start a lot less than 3 hours,
and thermally less-favorable environments. I would favor a different
standard for screw-base retail-package CFLs to have life expectancy
testing at 1 hour per start and in an ambient temperature maybe 40 degrees
C rather than the 25 C currently used for testing.
However, I expect CFLs to still mostly last long enough to be
economically favorable over incandescents for most household lighting.
The CFLs are, looking at the packaging, rated for 8,000 hours. So that's
almost a full year of _ON_ time. And I _know_ for certain that they
failed in less operational hours than that.

I think I average about half to 2/3 of claimed life expectancy from my
CFLs. Sorry, not enough written logs...
The incandescent in the living room lasted perhaps two years of use after
we moved it and I don't know how long, before that. That _may_ be just
about its rated life, given our use. Or perhaps a little better, though
I'm guessing. But it is way below the CFL's rating.

It is turning out, I think, that perhaps CFLs are more limited in the
areas they can be effectively used, as rated. If you are saying that
some are rated for my ceiling use, and some aren't, this is something
I've never needed to worry about before regarding incandescents -- so
this is new information to me. And it complicates the buying process
for CFLs, while not complicating it for incandescents.

Interesting, though.

Thanks,
Jon

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])
 
D

Don Klipstein

Jan 1, 1970
0
The Ladbroke Grove rail crash showed how diesel burns very well if the
impact is so serious that an aerosol mist results.

Graham

Yes, forgot to consider that one... Concentrated aerosols of just about
anything combustible are flammable.

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])
 
N

NightMist

Jan 1, 1970
0
Please use the correct acronym - we have been talking about CFLs,
compact fluorescent lamps.

CCFL is cold cathode fluorescent lamp, which the usual household use
compacts are not. (One exception - N:Vision's 3-watt candelabra base does
appear to me to be cold cathode. BTW, the nominally 4-watt candelabra
base ones are hot cathode.)
What's an Ott?
Besides $25 for a 13 watt bulb.

NightMist
wondering if she has both
 
J

jasen

Jan 1, 1970
0
Reread the comment that got me wondering. The implication was
that the phone was used as a dildo. So...either the female
knows when the male is calling and never answers to use it
or ...??? IOW, how does the male know that the female is
using the vibration and keeps ringing long enough until
climax? hmmm...I suppose those cameras are getting used already..

They could be in the same room at the time...

Bye.
Jasen
 
They could be in the same room at the time...

I suppose they could but that's no fun. When you
have the real thing, why settle for a substitute?

That was my basis when I tried to figure out how
these phone matters could be arranged.

/BAH
 
What Gore actually said was that he "took the initiative in creating the
internet".

I say not as bad as an exaggeration as that of his opponents, since he
was the main force in the Senate for expanding it from the Aarpanet back
in the days when it was often called the "Information Superhighway".

nitpick...ARPA was not "expanded". Back then commercial netwoks
and defense networks existed. However, they could not use
each other's gear for traffic. The bill that Gore co-authored,
among other things like introducing new fees, also removed
the national security restriction that kept the two networks
separate.

It was a Very Bad Thing to allow comm data packets from a
commercial site to stray onto the ARPA network. We were
in the cold war and were still learning about how many
layers of protocol and their specifications were necessary.

/BAH
 
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