Honda EU2000: New User's Impressions

[(PeteCresswell)]

Finally decided to get Honda's EU2000 based on
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- Portability (one-hand carry, transportable in passenger side of a car),

- Reports of less noise emission than other units,

- Minimal capacity consistent with intended use - which is keeping food in a
freezer and a fridge from spoiling, watching a little TV, and being able to do
work at my PC.... not necessarily all at the same time.
---------------------------------------------------------


Seems like a decent fit so far.


My observations (as one who chronically suffers buyer's remorse):
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1) Honda dropped the ball when they didn't put an hours meter on the front
panel. Beeeeg omission. All their maintenance instructions are hours-based
and, unless somebody's in sole control of the unit and is fairly obsessive with
a log book an aftermarket hours meter is needed.

Fifty bucks, an hour of fiddling, and a sore back in my case, although somebody
else mentioned getting one for about 25.


2) Likewise, I'd say they erred by not putting a watt meter on the front panel.
The instructions clearly state that the unit can be damaged by chronically
running just *under* max - with only the green light on and the overload light
NOT on. But without a watt meter there's no way to determine if that condition
exists.

Put this thing out for people to use unsupervised, and it looks to me like it's
toast for sure.

I agree with another poster that, if the unit were to used by other people than
the owner, a circuit breaker would be the best solution - something that trips
at the max continuous load of 1.8 kw. But that would have to be built in behind
the outlet panel or the users would bypass it.

I opted for an after market meter of sorts in the form of something called
"Kill-A-Watt" and just tested various appliances and noted their load levels in
a little log book.

About twenty-five bucks.


3) I guess it's about as non-loud as can be managed in a free-standing unit -
especially on PowerSave - but all the raves about "whisper quiet" - or even
"quiet" seem to me like gross exaggerations. Walking the perimeter of my
property (let's say 100 feet in all directions) the device is clearly audible in
all directions except where the house is between the observer and the unit.

Although we're not in the city, this place is by no means country quiet: there
are several large roads and a commuter rail line close by - so there's a
significant amount of background noise. It's not like you can hear a pin drop
ten feet away - or hear the sound of your own heart beating as you can where
it's *really* quiet.

OTOH on a relative scale of 1 to 10, this thing is a 2 and my neighbor's
el-cheapo 5 kw unit is about a 9.5.


4) Honda could have made it a *lot* easier to fill the crankcase without
requiring a funnel.


5) They want you to drain the gas tank and carb before long term storage. How
much would it have cost to put a little valve on the carb so the gas can be
turned off and carb run dry? Likewise something to make draining the gas tank
easier?
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Using Kill-A-Watt, I found:
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- Kitchen fridge: 1125w startup surge, 240 continuous
- CRT Television with video tape player playing: 100w
- Garage fridge: 600 startup, 235 continuous
- Garage freezer: 550 startup, 350 continuous
- PC workstation and associated peripherals: 375 continuous, but
the laser printer takes about 850 additional when it prints and
about 740 additional at startup.
---------------------------------------------------------

The starting surges of the fridges/freezer cause enough of a voltage drop to
trip the PC's UPS when the gennie is set to "Economy" mode.

Also, I suspect that Kill-A-Watt is not showing me the read deal on startup
surges. I'm willing to bet they're higher than what it shows.

Haven't tried it running full speed yet. But based on what I've seen so far,
I'd say that a UPS is essential if a PC is going to be run on it at the same
time as something that inflicts a big surge load - like a refrigerator or
freezer, or a laser printer.


Bottom line: this thing seems 100% adequate for intended use although Honda
could have been a lot more user-friendly with the gauges.

To be safe, I will probably just run a single fridge or single freezer at a time
and feel free to hang a TV and even an electric light or the PC workstation it
at the same time. I'd also avoid using the laser printer as long as one of the
fridges or the freezer was online.

 

[Vaughn Simon]

5) They want you to drain the gas tank and carb before long term storage.
How
much would it have cost to put a little valve on the carb so the gas can be
turned off and carb run dry? Likewise something to make draining the gas
tank
easier?

Surprise! The tank does not gravity feed into the carb, the thing actually
has a tiny fuel pump. To drain the carb bowl, you just open the little valve.
There is a neat little clear plastic tube attached to the valve that you can use
to direct the bit of gas into a suitable container.

I agree, a light bar-type wattmeter and an hourmeter would be nice. That
said, it is not terribly hard to count gas tank refills and multiply by (say) 10
to get an idea of hours. I also agree that the oil drain and refill opening
needs work. It is no excuse, but Yamahas are similar in that respect.

Vaughn

 

[[email protected]]

Bottom line: this thing seems 100% adequate for intended use although Honda
could have been a lot more user-friendly with the gauges.

Good review thanks

But I'm curious what your "intended" use is?

 

[(PeteCresswell)]

Per [email protected]:

But I'm curious what your "intended" use is?

Getting through several days of power outage without losing the contents of
fridge or freezer, being able to work on my PC, and being able to watch a
little TV.

 

[Kelly]

Finally decided to get Honda's EU2000 based on


Seems like a decent fit so far.


1) Honda dropped the ball when they didn't put an hours meter on the front
panel. \

Not for me. I change the oil twice a year. No need for an hour meter. I'm
glad they didn't add on and boost the price $50.

2) Likewise, I'd say they erred by not putting a watt meter on the front
panel.

Again, I'm glad they didnt add one and boost the price. A little paper and
pencil is needed. After all, its not a 5KW generator. 1.8KW the max.

Put this thing out for people to use unsupervised, and it looks to me like
it's
toast for sure.


3) I guess it's about as non-loud as can be managed in a free-standing
unit -
especially on PowerSave - but all the raves about "whisper quiet" - or
even
"quiet" seem to me like gross exaggerations. Walking the perimeter of
my
property (let's say 100 feet in all directions) the device is clearly
audible in
all directions except where the house is between the observer and the
unit.

Isn't this a gasoline generator? With an exhause and valves?

Be happy with the low noise it makes. Its not an inverter...

Didnt you check the db rating before you purchased it?

OTOH on a relative scale of 1 to 10, this thing is a 2 and my neighbor's
el-cheapo 5 kw unit is about a 9.5.


4) Honda could have made it a *lot* easier to fill the crankcase without
requiring a funnel.

Come on now, We all have funnels, We use them for out lawnmovers,
snowthrowers, gas powered landscape equipment. Why should Honda be any
different??

5) They want you to drain the gas tank and carb before long term storage.
How
much would it have cost to put a little valve on the carb so the gas can
be
turned off and carb run dry? Likewise something to make draining the gas
tank
easier?

A little Stabil goes a long way.

Next you state that Honda should have provided a cover, a sponge wheels, 5
extra spark plugs, 25 quarts of oil...

I can see why you might have buyers remorse...

Bottom line: this thing seems 100% adequate for intended use although
Honda
could have been a lot more user-friendly with the gauges.

Do you have a calculator? 100 watts + 350 watts =????

Come on man, its a great genset for those who know what to plug into it or
not. Its not for everyone..

Good luck with it, I love mine....

 

[(PeteCresswell)]

Per Kelly:

I can see why you might have buyers remorse...

Not *might* - it's chronic thing with me. Almost every big-ticket purchase I
make, I find fault with.

Wears off with time.... and there's probably a job out there for me in some kind
of product testing service.

I'm just one of those fault-finding people that seeks out the negative in
things. I try to keep a lid on it most of the time... but every once in awhile
it slips out...

 

[Derek Broughton]

I can't see it boosting the price $50 - it didn't cost _me_ that much to add
one - and it would certainly be worth having it as an option.

Again, I'm glad they didnt add one and boost the price. A little paper
and
pencil is needed. After all, its not a 5KW generator. 1.8KW the max.

I can't really see a use for that one. People who will overload the
generator won't watch a watt meter, anyway.

If my wife isn't bothered by it, it's "whisper quiet". Considering that
when I run it it's right outside the kitchen window, it does pretty well.
And you _can't_ hear it from the perimeter of my property. Of course,
surf's usually up...

Isn't this a gasoline generator? With an exhause and valves?

Be happy with the low noise it makes. Its not an inverter...

Actually, it is.

Come on now, We all have funnels, We use them for out lawnmovers,
snowthrowers, gas powered landscape equipment. Why should Honda be any
different??

Because even _with_ a funnel, it's awkward, and draining the oil is worse.

 

[(PeteCresswell)]

Per Derek Broughton:

I can't really see a use for that one. People who will overload the
generator won't watch a watt meter, anyway.

Maybe I misread the instruction manual, but it seemed to me like it said the
device could be damaged by running a continuous load that is not high enough to
cause the red light to come on.

 

[Kelly]

If you find fault with an item, why do you buy it? It seems to me you
purchase an item, then research it. You have got it backwards, pal

 

[(PeteCresswell)]

Per Kelly:

If you find fault with an item, why do you buy it? It seems to me you
purchase an item, then research it.

I find fault with virtually all items I purchase. It's just *me*...

Also, seeing faults in something doesn't mean that it isn't serviceable - or
even of very high quality/good design... just that it's not perfect.

 

[Vaughn Simon]

Per Derek Broughton:

Maybe I misread the instruction manual, but it seemed to me like it said the
device could be damaged by running a continuous load that is not high enough
to
cause the red light to come on.

"Substantial overloading will switch off the AC circuit protector. Exceeding
the time limit for maximum power operation of slightly overloading the generator
may not switch the AC circuit protector OFF, but will shorten the service life
of the generator."

(Limits are 2000 VA for 30 minutes or 1600 VA continuous.

(and on another page)
"Substantial overloading that continuously lights the overload indicator light
(red) may damage the generator. Margional overloading that temporarily lights
the overload indicator light (red) may shorten the service life of the
generator."

As I have said before, if you consistantly need anything near the capacity
of any inverter generator, you have bought the wrong generator and paid too
much. The main efficiency and noise reduction advantage of an inverter
generator comes at low loads. At high loads, it is revving at high RPMs just
like any other generator.

Vaughn

 

[Vaughn Simon]

However, I have wondered if they will run appliances with a motor like
a furnace or refrigerator or swamp cooler, etc. Does your refrigerator,
for example, start and run OK using the EU 2000?

Yes. My EU2000 barely seems to notice my big, relatively old, side-by-side
fridge. In fact, I recently tested a 1000-watt Yamaha inverter generator on
that same box. It worked fine except that it had little excess capacity to
handle other loads while the refrigerator was in its defrost cycle.

The defrost cycle can come as a bit of a surprise if you are not expecting
it. Mine has heaters that draw about 6 hundred watts.

Vaughn

 

[(PeteCresswell)]

Per [email protected]:

However, I have wondered if they will run appliances with a motor like
a furnace or refrigerator or swamp cooler, etc. Does your refrigerator,
for example, start and run OK using the EU 2000?

Yes. I can run fridge and freezer concurrently. When both are up, the fridge
sometimes has trouble starting - may take 2-3 tries before it starts up. But
running solo - absolutely no problem whatsoever.

My plan in an extended outage is to run one refrigerator for a few hours, then
another, then the freezer.... all the time running my PC workstation or a TV and
a couple of lights too.

 

[no one that you know]

Eu 1000 runs my fridge freezer furnace just fine all at once if I stagger the start
up.

 

[(PeteCresswell)]

Per no one that you know:

Eu 1000 runs my fridge freezer furnace

Was the furnace part pretty obvious? Or are there several plugs that need tb
serviced? Haven't started poking around in mine yet and there's nothing
obvious out where it can be seen.

I'm guessing: the furnace fan for one and some sort of electronics to start the
flame for another...

 

[(PeteCresswell)]

Per Ulysses:

Get two pieces of 1/2" poly tubing about 3 inches long. Attach one to a
small (3 inch) funnel. Get a paper towel and fold it up and put it in the
little oil drain tray. Stick the other piece of tubing in the oil fill hole
and tip the genny to drain the oil. I drain directly into a one gallon
bottle with a big funnel in it. Then remove the first tubing and put in the
one with the funnel. Pour in just a little less than 1/2 quart of oil. I
can change my oil in about 3 or 4 minutes with almost no mess. The only
problem I have with this is there is always an ounce or two of oil left in
the bottle after two oil changes but it ends up in either my lawn mower or
my car.

That one's a "keeper".

Thanks!

 

[no one that you know]

My furnace is forty year old technology.
I did however replace the belt blower with a two speed direct drive. I can select
witch windings get power hi or low from a two way switch beside my t-stat.
I leave it in low all the time. It draws about 3.5 amps ac on low and 8 amps on hi.
When my t-stat calls for heat it turns the blower on right away also.
If the heat exchanger gets up to temp a relay overides the low setting on the
blower.
It is rare for the blower to turn onto hi...only happens when someone bumps up the
heat causing a longer cycle.
I guess what I am trying to say is that by reducing my needs I was able to reduce
the size of my back up as well.
The only regret I have is trying to find a small enough microwave that will run on a
eu1000.
I have looked hi and low but the smallest one I could find was one rated at 600
watts drawing about 1.2 kw.
Any one out there seen a microwave that would run on a eu1000? This would be for my
camper trailer.

 

[no one that you know]

I think this is false economy, you may be saving a little electricity
at the expense of lower fuel efficeincy of the furnace.
I think you misunderstood . The way it used to work like all old furnace was to kick in
the blower after the exchanger got up to a set temp while heat was going up the flue.

I am pulling some of the heat off the exchanger during the warm up time at low speed, but
not so much as to cause cold drafts in the house and not so much as to cause a cold flue.

all I know is the previous owners average gas bill for six months of winter in 02/03 were
270.00 per month, that is what the gas co told me.
They would not tell me the peak months. Gas prices have gone up alot and I am yet to see
a bill higher than 130.00 if I recall.
I dont know if cleaning the ash off the burners or my mods gave me lower bills. I know
they both did but no numbers.
I do know this I prefer the lower blower speed ....cant even hear it at all and the house
is more comfortable this way as it doesn't cause sudden cold drafts while purging the
pipes. I also put in a relay to overide my mods in case the exchanger gets up to temp.

 

[no one that you know]

The savings are most likely all in the differences in the way you use
the heat. Regardless of the blower speed, all the energy input to the
blower is recovered as heat, either from heated air from cooling the
motor or ultimately, friction heat in the flowing air.

My major concern with the low speed blower would be the effect on heat
exchanger temperature. The temperature has to be higher for the same
BTU input. Whether it is hot enough to cause scaling and corrosion is
unknown. I'd certainly want to investigate. It would be REAL false
economy to burn out the heat exchanger early.

I was told by the guy that installed the furnace 40 years ago. (believe it or not he is
still around and remembers)

exchanger temp and what not is not a problem on the old school furnaces even with a continuis
blower he said.
As a matter of fact it is law hear to have the bathroom fan turn on the furnace blower. I
wonder what that does to the high tech furnace if it happens to call for heat when the blower
is allready on? During heating season the humidity is very low hear any ways. That reminds me
I also disabled the humidifier because the windows used to ice up.
I have had three pros inspect the exchanger and they all said that old lennox is as tuff as
nails and should be good for another fourty years.
My plan is to replace it in two years.....I just dont want to jump in right now because the
new high tech ones still have a bad track record for expensive break downs. Alot of people are
upgrading and I am watching and asking questions so I dont end up with a lemmon.