[NN]

My washing machine makes no noise or anything. I tested these things.
I checked the power cord with load to where it end in the timer area.
I checked to see if the faucets are on. It is a machine that will fill
even if the lid is open. I open the back and the wiring looked clean
and fine. I tried all water levels and temp settings. I tried all
three of the washes available on the timer knob. I tried the timer in
all various cycles. I manually filled the machine with normal water
levels. I checked the intake screens of both hot and cold. Any
ideas that I might not know or able to come up with?

 

[Lee]

My washing machine makes no noise or anything. I tested these things.
I checked the power cord with load to where it end in the timer area.
I checked to see if the faucets are on. It is a machine that will fill
even if the lid is open. I open the back and the wiring looked clean
and fine. I tried all water levels and temp settings. I tried all
three of the washes available on the timer knob. I tried the timer in
all various cycles. I manually filled the machine with normal water
levels. I checked the intake screens of both hot and cold. Any
ideas that I might not know or able to come up with?

Did you plug it in and/or check the outlet for power?
Regards
Lee

 

[Homer J Simpson]

My washing machine makes no noise or anything. I tested these things.
I checked the power cord with load to where it end in the timer area.
I checked to see if the faucets are on. It is a machine that will fill
even if the lid is open. I open the back and the wiring looked clean
and fine. I tried all water levels and temp settings. I tried all
three of the washes available on the timer knob. I tried the timer in
all various cycles. I manually filled the machine with normal water
levels. I checked the intake screens of both hot and cold. Any
ideas that I might not know or able to come up with?

Check the lid interlock switch. Check for a thermal overload switch on the
motor.

 

[NN]

Check the lid interlock switch. Check for a thermal overload switch on the
motor.

I did check the cord on the same outlet with a equivalent load. The
lid interlock switch is in front of me now. But how does it work? It
has four connectors named , neut, line, moter, machine. I would hook
up a meter to neut and line and how do I test the two other connectors
and what do I look for when the switch is in lid closed position.

 

[NN]

I like to add I did a search before asking for help: This is the steps
for a washer that is completely dead.
Check that the washer is plugged in securely
Check the circuit breaker or fuse box
Test the outlet for current
Check that the water supply valves are turned on
Inspect the filter screens
Test for overheating
Test the water level switch
Test the timer control
Test the lid switch
Test the water inlet valve
Inspect the water pump
Test the centrifugal switch
Test the motor

I skipped overheating because it makes no sense with a dead machine.
There is no way to test the timer at home.

 

[Homer J Simpson]

I did check the cord on the same outlet with a equivalent load. The
lid interlock switch is in front of me now. But how does it work? It
has four connectors named , neut, line, moter, machine. I would hook
up a meter to neut and line and how do I test the two other connectors
and what do I look for when the switch is in lid closed position.

Odd, but neut will connect to moter or machine and line will connect to the
other of the pair.

 

[William R. Walsh]

Hi!

I skipped overheating because it makes no sense with a dead machine.

Actually, it could. Most larger electric motors have an integral protection
device of some type. Some are one-shot thermal cutouts that, when blown,
must be replaced. Others are circuit breaker type devices...some of which
are "self resetting" given time to cool, and others that must be reset
manually by pushing a button.

A problem that trips one of these devices can also damage or destroy it. I
don't think they're terribly high quality, as I've seen thermal cutouts that
didn't go until something started to smell hot or was damaged by getting too
hot. More often than not, I've also seen the circuit breakers or fuses in a
home react before the device's onboard breaker interrupted current flow. The
main idea behind these may simply be fire prevention...

There is no way to test the timer at home.

If it is an analog timer, there might be. Disconnect the washing machine
**completely** from electrical power. Put your meter leads across the plug
ends and turn to a resistance measurement scale. Turn the machine on and off
a few times. Rotate the timer with the machine "on". If the needle changes,
the timer may be OK.

The most common failure that I've seen is that of the lid switch. But on a
machine that will fill with the lid open, that should still happen.

William

 

[Homer J Simpson]

I like to add I did a search before asking for help: This is the steps
for a washer that is completely dead.

Is there a wiring diagram inside the machine or on the back?

 

[NN]

Odd, but neut will connect to moter or machine and line will connect to the
other of the pair.

I understand the overheating issue ( although the machine died from a
cold start immediately after I started it ). All machines have some
type of termal switch for fire protection.

Now for the lid switch, I can hook up a low volt battery to neut and
line and use a 12 light for testing. where do I put the 2 wires for
the light and look for ? Or how do I bypass it for now?

 

[NN]

I understand the overheating issue ( although the machine died from a
cold start immediately after I started it ). All machines have some
type of termal switch for fire protection.

Now for the lid switch, I can hook up a low volt battery to neut and
line and use a 12 light for testing. where do I put the 2 wires for
the light and look for ? Or how do I bypass it for now?

Update, I found the thermal switch (one time use) build into the lid
switch. That,s it but one must now wonder why did it burn out.

 

[NN]

Update, I found the thermal switch (one time use) build into the lid
switch. That,s it but one must now wonder why did it burn out.

Ok, nothing really burn out but a piece of plastic made in the shape of
hour glass (cheap fuse) held another contact together for the whole
machine in the same case as the lid switch. I guess if things get hot
from the nearby lid switch, the plastic melts and the whole machine
goes off. Talk about as cheap as it gets. I am happy to say it
working again.

By the way, the neutral connector is a dead end in the switch. I like
the heat sensors from old copying machines which are a resettable
breaker. You covered all that stuff though. This lid switch house
also the heat plastic fuse. One less part, The machine is 8 years old
and very simple or sparse inside. It look like a beltless system.

 

[Homer J Simpson]

It look like a beltless system.

Belts cost money.

 

[James Sweet]

My washing machine makes no noise or anything. I tested these things.
I checked the power cord with load to where it end in the timer area.
I checked to see if the faucets are on. It is a machine that will fill
even if the lid is open. I open the back and the wiring looked clean
and fine. I tried all water levels and temp settings. I tried all
three of the washes available on the timer knob. I tried the timer in
all various cycles. I manually filled the machine with normal water
levels. I checked the intake screens of both hot and cold. Any
ideas that I might not know or able to come up with?

How about a brand and model number? Is there a schematic tucked inside
the panel?

 

[NN]

How about a brand and model number? Is there a schematic tucked inside
the panel?

It is a maytag bought new in 1998, no schematics or model number but
here is what the invoice reads.
1(or L)AT9356AAE serial # 23089114UD TAY(or x)

But I got it running again.

 

[NN]

How about a brand and model number? Is there a schematic tucked inside
the panel?

no schematic either, usually it is there with a first owner.