logan_dslasher
- Jul 23, 2004
- 392
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2004
- Messages
- 392
thanks.. that clearly shows that the positive terminal of C2 is not directly connected to
Hi Logan, who me?logan_dslasher said:the operation of the circuit discussed in the site is very brief. i hope I could get a more thorough explanation about its design. i need to know what's happening in the circuit from the moment someone whistles up to its emission of a beeping tone. i want to know why the parts are wired the way they are. i hope someone (you know who you are.. eheheh) could help me out here.
It doesn't use radio frequencies so if the contacts on your breadboard work then the circuit should work.i have just mounted its parts on a bread board. it didn't work. maybe i didn't whistle at the correct frequency. i tried using my cellphone's ringtone composer, i tried every note i could produce but to no avail. i've checked the connection a dozen times. what could have i done wrong? my bread board is quite small so i have to use lots of wires, could that be the reason?
C2 and C3 are parts in a bandpass filter. Their tolerance should be as tight as possible. Polyester caps are commonly 5% which is good but ceramic caps could be +80%, -20%.I also used a ceramic capacitor for c2 and c3 instead of polyester. could that be the reason?
Buzz, WRONG! They certainly are polarized. R1 feeds it its positive supply current for the field-effect transistor inside. The electret mic for this project should have only 2 pins or wires. 3-wire electret mics are available that would need to be modified to work in this project.the mic doesn't have any polarity, right?
1) You said in an e-mail that someone (not you? ;D) accidently used a 12V supply. You said that an LED replaced the buzzer. The IC can withstand 12V but might get a little warm. Without a current-limiting resistor for the transistor and LED then they might be destroyed. The IC is destroyed instantly if the supply is connected backwards.i don't know what i did wrong.
i've changed the polarity of the mic. I was surprised to see that the LED lit. bravo! but it was turned on all the time. a closer inspection revealed that a wire is placed from the +V source to pin1 and also the ground was connected to pin8. that was wrong, right? i think so because the LED turned off when i removed them. is there a way to check if the mic is properly working?audioguru said:Buzz, WRONG! They certainly are polarized. R1 feeds it its positive supply current for the field-effect transistor inside. The electret mic for this project should have only 2 pins or wires. 3-wire electret mics are available that would need to be modified to work in this project.
One pin on a 2-wire electret mic is connected to its metal case and should connect the the shield of a shielded audio cable which connects to the circuit's ground (battery's negative terminal). The other pin should connect to the inner shielded conductor of the cable and connect to R1 and C1. The mic won't be damaged if connected backwards.
Do you have a voltmeter? Is the supply 3.0V? Do you have a 47 ohm current-limiting resistor in series with the LED?logan_dslasher said:i've changed the polarity of the mic. I was surprised to see that the LED lit. bravo! but it was turned on all the time.
+V source is supposed to connect to pin 1. Ground is supposed to connect to ground.a closer inspection revealed that a wire is placed from the +V source to pin1 and also the ground was connected to pin8. that was wrong, right?
Look at the schematic. You disconnected the power to the IC. Ground is everything that is connected to the negative wire of the power supply.the LED turned off when i removed them.
Of course, measure DC voltages in the circuit. Beg, borrow or steal a multimeter and measure DC voltages in the circuit without sound. They should be close to these numbers:is there a way to check if the mic is properly working?
hahaha.. lol.. do you really have to steal a multimeter? ehehe.. i have one. it's analog though.. anyway, i'll do that. i don't have an internet connection at home. so what i do is check the forum from an internet cafe. save your suggestions in a flash drive or diskette, and dload it into my pc at home. moreover, i can't bring the project here at the cafe..audioguru said:Of course, measure DC voltages in the circuit. Beg, borrow or steal a multimeter and measure DC voltages in the circuit without sound. They should be close to these numbers:
if i would have those wires connected, the LED would alwayz be turned on. if i have the buzzer in parallel with the LED, it would continuously beep. i'll recheck my connections.Quote
a closer inspection revealed that a wire is placed from the +V source to pin1 and also the ground was connected to pin8. that was wrong, right?
+V source is supposed to connect to pin 1. Ground is supposed to connect to ground.
Quote
the LED turned off when i removed them.
Look at the schematic. You disconnected the power to the IC. Ground is everything that is connected to the negative wire of the power supply.
how do i know if the transistor is turned off? what should the reading be?Test if the transistor can turn off by shorting its base to its emitter.
It is probably a piezo speaker, not a piezo beeper that has a buit-in oscillator like the project needs.logan_dslasher said:the alarm clock buzzer is not beeping even if the LED is lit. it's connected in parallel with the LED. it only produces crackling sounds.
The LED will turn off.how do i know if the transistor is turned off? what should the reading be?
the mic i'm using is cylindrical in shape.. less than 1cm in diameter and about 0.7 cm tall.. one of its
so what could i substitute for it? the commecrcially available buzzer is too big for its purpose. the smallest is about an inch and a half. (bigger than my PCB)audioguru said:It is probably a piezo speaker, not a piezo beeper that has a buit-in oscillator like the project needs.
the case is metal.If its case is metal then it is probably an electret type. Use the ohm-meter fuction on your meter to measure which terminal connects to its case. That terminal is ground.
If the wires to it are longer than a few cm then they will pickup interference and need to be shielded audio cable.
i'll have the voltage measurements as soon as i could log in again. what transistor part number?I wait for the results of your voltages measurements.
What transistor part number did you use?
Connect the piezo to 3V then reverse the wires and try it again. If it beeps then it is a piezo beeper and can be used in the circuit. I it just clicks when connected and disconnected then it is a piezo speaker and the circuit will need modification to use it. The modification will make it tone continuously intead of: beep, beep, beep for a few seconds.logan_dslasher said:so what could i substitute for it? the commecrcially available buzzer is too big for its purpose.
Then connect its case terminal to ground and the other terminal to R1 and C1.the case of the mic is metal.
i'll do that..Connect the piezo to 3V then reverse the wires and try it again. If it beeps then it is a piezo beeper and can be used in the circuit. I it just clicks when connected and disconnected then it is a piezo speaker and the circuit will need modification to use it. The modification will make it tone continuously intead of: beep, beep, beep for a few seconds.
ok. i'll find it out...what transistor part number?
Either your meter reads low or the power supply voltage is low. The IC's minimum voltage is 3.0V but might still work if the voltage is a little lower.logan_dslasher said:i have tested the circuit. all the test points that are expected to have 3.0V yielded only 2.8V.
That is OK.those that should be 1.5 have only 1V.
Good, then the IC works fine.Those that should be 0V are actually 0V
Oh, oh. And you can't turn it off. The transistor is blown-up! Don't replace it, the modification for the piezo speaker doesn't need it.except for the transistor's base, which gave a 0.9V rating.
Oh, oh again. The microphone is shorted, maybe where you soldered on it. Don't let the wire on the microphone that connects to R1 and C1 touch the metal case of the mic.the mic terminal with c1 and r1 that you said should have a rating of 1.5 - 2.5V, doesn't have any output at all.. zero volts!
Yes, the transistor doesn't work. It isn't needed.the transistor's part number is BC337. and, NO, the LED, the transistor for that matter did not turn off when i shorted its base to its emitter.
It is a piezo speaker. The alarm clock has an oscillator which makes it beep. Here is the project that will drive it:View attachment 38341the piezo buzzer/speaker only produces crackling sound and no beep at all.. does that mean that it is a piezo speaker? how do you define "beep"? remember that i got it from an alarm clock, and before i removed it from its clock circuit. it was beeping with a 1.5V dry cell.