Illuminated DPDT Switch

[Krisso69]

Hi All,

Im wiring up a camper trailer and trying to install two switches to control one light. After research, I learnt I will need two SPDT switches. I couldn't find the right style SPDT switch, however, I managed to get my hands on the correct style DPDT switch. My thinking is I will only need to use one pole for it to work the same as a SPDT switch.
I managed to wire the circuit correctly in order to control the light from both switches, however, I can not figure out how to get the switches to illuminate or if its even possible in this configuration. I have attached a schematic of how it is currently wired and a link to the switches Im using.
Im hoping someone can kindly point me in the right direction to get these switches illuminated.

Thanks so much.

Kris.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/round-ip65-rated-rocker-switch-dpdt-250vac-10a/p/SK0967

 

[kellys_eye]

Connect the battery negative(s) to the spare 'middle' contact on both switches.

 

[Krisso69]

Sorry, I should’ve mentioned I already tried connecting negative from battery to both spare middle pins on other side. That didn’t work

 

[AnalogKid]

Part number for switch, link to datasheet, photos ,,,,,,,anything?

 

[hevans1944]

Sorry, I should’ve mentioned I already tried connecting negative from battery to both spare middle pins on other side. That didn’t work

That should have worked.

Polarity is important for LED illumination:



However, if you connected battery negative to the 2b terminal on both switches, it is possible the 12 V battery doesn't provide enough voltage to "light up" the LED. The switch contacts are rated from 14 V DC up to 250 VDC. Given the possibility that the switch would be used at 250 V DC, perhaps the built-in LED current-limiting resistor is a wee bit too large in value.

@AnalogKid: the Jaycar Electronics website the OP linked to in post #1 has a link to a one page PDF datasheet for the switch. I have included that PDF with this post.

 

[Krisso69]

That should have worked.

Polarity is important for LED illumination:

View attachment 40541

However, if you connected battery negative to the 2b terminal on both switches, it is possible the 12 V battery doesn't provide enough voltage to "light up" the LED. The switch contacts are rated from 14 V DC up to 250 VDC. Given the possibility that the switch would be used at 250 V DC, perhaps the built-in LED current-limiting resistor is a wee bit too large in value.

@AnalogKid: the Jaycar Electronics website the OP linked to in post #1 has a link to a one page PDF datasheet for the switch. I have included that PDF with this post.

Hmmm I think I’ll put it down to the resistor. Not to worry, I can do without the switch LED. Thanks for your help!!