Intercom replacement questions.

[zrkd51]

Hello, this is my first time here, my background in electronics is not that deep, I'm trying to replace the intercom from my apartment. I had one Brand : Genway, I wasn't able to get it lower than 80 $, so I decided to try a generic one, I bought one from Amazon, Brand: UXcell, both circuit boards look pretty similar, I tried to connect it as it was, but the ringer/buzzer is not working.

2 questions, is the wiring alright? , How do I test if I'm receiving the ringer impulse properly?
If you guys need any detail, let me know.

Down below I present you both boards (mounted and wired)

Old Intercom



New Intercom

 

[Bluejets]

You will need, at minimum, to post schematics of both here.

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir zrkd51 . . . . . . . . . . . .qzxzr007 1/2 here . . . . . at your service

Looks like you just have a loop in and loop out wiring arrangement.
With the error probably being on your chosen bottom connector
wiring connections.

Log in / remember ? all wire colors to the bottom terminal block connections
Pull off all of those wires.

It . . . certainly ¿ looks ? . . .like you have already installed the bottom wires correctly . . .but . . .???.
Plus, it looks like your "new" unit unit is a used / old stock unit and was somewhat subjected to some
silverfish insect activity.

Considering that the main electronics of the system is providing 12VDC, between all units, lets initially take DVM metering in hand and take these readings for reaching a logical analysis.

These are all from the fixed connector at top, down to the terminal connectors below.

For METER safety, in making a later OHMS mode testing, initially place the DVM in DC volts at a range just in excess of 12VDC.


One Meter probe goes to the brass metal pin of the far left RED connection then the other meter probe measures to each of the 5 connectors below . . . .MAINLY . . . we are just wanting to know IF there happens to be a DC voltage present ?
Log down any of those voltages found for each possibility . . . .IF . . . any voltage is found.

Use the same procedure for BLACK-YELLOW and GREEN wire connector pins.

Just for the unexpected, (they might be using 24VAC for door solenoid activation), Switch the DVM to AC Voltage function and see that its AC voltage range is set to at the closest option above 24VAC.

Run through the same total procedure as was given above , but we are now seeking out any AC voltage.

By your checking of logs, you will later know if any voltage is present to a connection.

The final test is to go to OHMS mode in its lowest range and initially short the probes together to confirm the read out response of your meter in encountering a dead short . . .or intercircuit connection.

One meter probe goes to the 1st RED top fixed connection and confirm by your previous tests logs that NO AC or DC voltage was existing between that point and any of the 5 bottom connectors , then you put the meters other probe to bottom connector 1 and see if there is being a direct wiring connection, by analyzing your meter reading being produced by a short.

Use the same thorough procedure used on the 1st RED top fixed connection on the associated BLACK, YELLOW and ORANGE wired connectors.

What I am expecting to be proved . . . .is that you should find 4 direct interconnects between the two types of terminal blocks .
The 5th connection will be related to the BLUE relay that you see up at the top.
Our missing connection is made by temporary circuit continuity passing through that relay, with the interconnect connection being made when the small amount of electronics parts that you see over at the top right (relay coil driver circuitry) receives a command to " Open 'da door Richard ! "

With 4 connections now being proven, you can now ascertain the only remaining wire connection . . .PLUS . . . you can see if that pesky bottom terminal 5 is even being involved in any way.

Lastly . . . . make up a color coding label for the bottom terminal block wiring.



Thassssit . . . . .

At no extra charge . . . . . IF the unit comes apart easily with the 4 locking tabs . . . you can just visually inspect interconnecting foil paths.
Since you now know what is being accomplished within the unit.




73's de Edd

 

[KTW]

One thing I see is the in and out appear reversed looking at the two boards.

 

[KJ6EAD]

Based on the legends on the boards and wire colors, it looks like you just need to move the black wire to the "B" terminal on the new board. Everything else looks correct.

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir zrkd51 . . . . . . . . . . .

After looking back at the photo of the new unit, and it's all encompassing view of its 4 clip tabs.
It does indeed appear that the board can be swung out for inspection of its backside.
A close-up photo of that side would reveal a lot to us.
Sort of expecting all of the intercom electronics to be hidden there, utilizing a piezoelectric speaker
and possibly an electret microphone and all of the intercom electronics built and hidden under a small
black epoxy covered Chip On Board blob.
That would make the " buzzer" be having an electronic sound.
While the foil connections of that side of the board are being exposed, you can then also confirm the direct interconnects between the two different terminal connectors.
Your new unit seems to have one extra terminal for the activation of an electrical door lock solenoid or gate opening function.
The cryptic "BBE" hints of buzzer enable while the "Lk" would suggest lock.


73's de Edd

.

 

[zrkd51]

Thanks for your help, @Bluejet, I wasn't able to find the schematics, sorry.
@KTW, yes, I think I wired it correctly.
@KJ6EAD Did that before posting, it didn't work, that's why I wanted to test, if the main intercom unit, is sending some kind of signal.

@73's de Edd, thanks for the insight, will test all that as soon as possible. Mind clearing up your instructions a little for me?, I'm not a native speaker, I didn't quite catch what metal brass pin did you mean , to test. Also, I attached an image, of the back part. This board looks messy.

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir zrkd51 . . . . . . .

Myriads of ?'s arising . . . now querying for others thoughts .

No intercom CONSTRUCTION being involved at all, on this board.

So any intercom aspect must be all located at the main unit, with this unit only having a speaker
that also doubles as an electrodynamic mike ?

Is there a press to talk button or is there any gate or door opening function.?

Any research on these units and their refined advancements make this look like a 70's vintage unit.

BLUE JIWANE 2000 won't research out. . . . . . . . as to either being a relay or possibly being a mechanical buzzer ?

Were you used to hearing a mechanical buzzer sound or an electronically simulated one.?
Thought . . . .Is that a slightly oversized black tact switch . . .why would it be on this side of the board unless a faceplate covers this side ? .

Where do the two sets of a cluster of 4 wires come from . . . . are they just coming out from inside of the wall ?

The left 4 wire connector is effectively cut down to 3 connections with the YELLOW and BLACK wires getting joined.
Any incoming DC voltage would seem to be a + at the RED wire as it then passes over to a top electrolytic's + terminal.
The DC return path would be thru the 1N4004 to the GREEN wire.
The foil path joined YELLOW and GREEN wires tie into a common foil ground plane that completely encircles the outer periphery of the PCB.

The loop in and out wiring I had expected, would only be, if the far left connector was wired in at the position of the present unused foil lands marked as N.C.
(Don't go changing anything . . . .that's just being an evidentuary fact. )

Tell us just what functions the old unit performed .

I can visualize two wires needed for intercom and a third for activating a gate for cars or electric door lock and one more wire for DC power. One wire might possibly be shared for the functions .

Facts:
The old unit treated the area around the 9014 transistor different between boards, there are several higher value resistors on the old unit. This unit is using much lower values.

The 1N4004 seems to be a steering diode and not being used as a relay coil PIV limiter .

I clustered all the info on one page and laid in some parts, yet, left an uncluttered and enhanced foil side view at far right.


TECHNO REFERENCING:

73's de Edd

 

[zrkd51]

@73's de Edd , wow, thanks for being so helpful.
Ok, I'll explain, I live in a building, there's a central unit on the first floor, if you happen to press the button of my apartment, it would ring here at my apartment.
The board you're looking at is actually a "phone", goes connected to handset (the 4 wired white plug you see), the push button you see opens the door on the first floor, the blue jiwan 2000, I'd say it works as a switch, when you press it (hang the handset) line is closed, when you release (answer) it line is open, and you can listen and talk to whoever is on the first floor. It sounded like a simulated sound, didn't sound like a buzzer at all, it actually would ring in 2 different alternating tones. The wires come from the wall, and I supposed they're connected to the main unit on the first floor, with the new unit I'm able to listen, and open the door. Apparently, people won't hear me, and it won't ring if they press the button of my apartment. Since I suspect, this button on the main unit is also broken, is there a way to test it?
Let me know if you need any other details. Or if I should go ahead and buy another unit hahaha. Thanks again.

I'm also uploading a pic of the back of the old unit, in case you'd want to check something.

 

[zrkd51]

Double posting, since I couldn't edit, I went ahead and opened the handset, that goes connected to the "new" unit (white plug) ends in an RJ11 jack, and goes to this handset. I think this is the missing link hahaha.


As an aditional note, old handset, looks exactly like this in the inside.

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir zrkd51 . . . . . . .

GREAT supplemental info aspects . . .solving the simple phone vice intercom situation, with standard phone wire coding and the speaker and electret microphone installed at the extremes of the handset.
Will analyze further tomorrow.

BTW what was the type of problem with the original unit ?

73's de Edd

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir zrkd51 . . . . . . .


One of your better pictures, reveals the height of the BLUE JIWANE . . .and it seems inadequate for that unit to be a relay . . .along with it being assigned a SW marking .
Now confirming, that you have the weight of the headset in cradle, being responsible for one switching action, and another door lock switch being the black tactile switch.
Play with and finger around on that JIWANE unit and just see if it isn't being a pressure switch ALSO.
That would account for the switching of the speaker and microphone functions.
In its cradle, the handset's internal speaker is ready for an incoming alert, but without the mike so that it can't hear /and/ eavesdrop on ALL room activity. .
Lift the handset and the microphone circuitry then comes into action..
That 1 onboard transistor seems to be associated with amplifying the output of that electret microphone as their naked output is not being any too great..
Now . . .on to the lock wiring /interfacing..
REPEAT:
What was the type of problem with the original unit ?

73's de Edd

 

[zrkd51]

Yes, sorry, I was away from the PC , for a while, the original unit would open the door, but the speaker and the mic stopped working.