That seems to explain it. Better to stay within specs then.
Thanks for the reply.
No problem.
I'm not working with small standard displays using a single LED
for each segment. I need a large display 1-2 ft high and since
ready-made ones in that size are not easily available from where
I live, I'm going to have to build them - two 5-digit units.
I need a bright display because it's to be used outdoors where it
won't be possible to keep it in the shade all the time. Pity
about not being able to use the continuous rating as a
multiplexed average. It's probably wise to reduce the peak
current even further because the black mounting board will absorb
heat from sunlight.
Since you are dealing with the outside environment, contrast
becomes a whole new ballpark. You really need to carefully
think the optical side through. You can waste a LOT of power
and expense where it may not be needed, ignoring optical
contrast issues along with choosing color well. The whole
field is called "contrast enhancement" and it's worth looking
into, I suspect.
You want to maximize the contrast between ON and OFF
conditions. You can help this by reducing the reflected
ambient (I gather that's the reasoning for your choice of a
black background) and by concentrating on maximizing the
light reaching the intended eye.
The means aren't entirely about making a black background,
though. For example, circular polarizing filters (linear
polarizer + quarter-wave) can be placed in front to extingish
reflections from a specular surface. Doesn't do so much for
non-specular ones, since that kind of surface just messes up
the electric field angle all over again. Also, at steep
angles, all polarizations of sunlight reflect but at shallow
angles horizontally polarized light reflects better, so you
might consider using an appropriately aligned linear
polarizer (to extingish those horizontal polarizations)
depending on likely angles. There are anti-reflection
coatings; louvered filters (like the window coverings, in a
fashion); cross hatch versions of the louvered filters;
wavelength filters can help, too, but some of that depends on
what wavelength you are considering and the kind of days
there are (clouds filter out a lot of the red, whereas broad
daylight is pretty much "flat".)
Can you talk a little about your planning on this aspect? I
don't know a lot, but I might be able to suggest some things
to try out or consider. My guess is that you will do a LOT
more for yourself worrying about this part of the problem
than worrying about just how many milliamps you can pump into
the segments. That part is pretty much set for you by the
better devices you decide to use. So consider that a 'done
deal' and worry a lot more now about the optics side and do
some experiments before committing to a final design.
Jon