Sir john2k . . . . . . . . ( and me and my electronics successfully escaped the 2K dilemmna 19 years ago !)
Considering that your
UNKNOWN model and
UNKNOWN brand of car utilized the simple design solution of "Monkey SEE-Monkey DO " . . .
. . . . . au . . . .
http://www.ti.com/lit/ug/tidu301a/tidu301a.pdf.
( Since its introduction in 2014. )
That system uses a max of up to 3A per door of
INITIAL motor start up current and progressively less on continuing run time, until end of cycle.
AND THEN . . . . . there is the quiescent state current pull of the electronics in standby of a miniscule 0.000012 amperes per door unit . . . . . I'll write that again, for your other eye . . . . . to ALSO confirm . . . 0.000012 amperes.
Confirming this should be possible by pulling the existing feeder fuse out from its connector and re installing the two probe tips of a DVM set to DC amps function, and initially, use a range of 10 AMPS.
That way, upon activation of the mirror retracted / extended feature . . . you can watch the impending current pull variance.
AND ALSO . . . . . . then, with some possible downscaling of the range to low milliamperes, with the mirrors in their
dormant state, be able to see that quiescent leakage pull.
All, being according to your meter capabilities . . . . I know that one of my Fluke's would accomodate that.
Thaaaaaaaasssit . . . . .
73's de Edd . . . . .
My watch is three hours fast, and I can't fix it. So I'm going to move to Florida and stay with with Hop.
.
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