NEC 820-40

K

Kilowatt

Jan 1, 1970
0
The satellite guys say that because they have connected their ground wire
into the AC disconnect that they are grounded according to NEC. I say they
have to drive a 8' ground rod and bond this to the service. I don't have a
code book and every article I have found is not really clear how this is
done.

Anyone want to comment?
 
S

SQLit

Jan 1, 1970
0
Kilowatt said:
The satellite guys say that because they have connected their ground wire
into the AC disconnect that they are grounded according to NEC. I say they
have to drive a 8' ground rod and bond this to the service. I don't have a
code book and every article I have found is not really clear how this is
done.

Anyone want to comment?
From what I read
I believe you already have a grounding electrode for you home right? If
they carried a #14 or larger ground wire out to the dish and connected that
ground wire in your service I think you covered.

An additional ground rod is a messy business.
 
K

Kilowatt

Jan 1, 1970
0
Isn't the key connecting it to the service? They have an insulated 8
stranded draped over the side of the house swinging and then striped and
rapped around the lock hole in the AC disconnect.

They should either drive a ground rod below the dish or run the conductor to
the service panel. Right?
 
L

Louis Bybee

Jan 1, 1970
0
Kilowatt said:
The satellite guys say that because they have connected their ground wire
into the AC disconnect that they are grounded according to NEC. I say they
have to drive a 8' ground rod and bond this to the service. I don't have a
code book and every article I have found is not really clear how this is
done.

Anyone want to comment?

There isn't a lot of information given here, but I suspect the "satellite
guys" may not be licensed or even qualified to be engaged in electrical
work. At best I envision them having low voltage qualifications which isn't
a bad thing, but it might be informative to ask what license they possess.

It would be interesting to know if the disconnect they connected the ground
wire to serves the dish, or how they terminated the ground wire its self.

With the limited information supplied it's difficult to armchair the work of
the dish installers, but I doubt a ground rod would be required for this
installation. Installing a ground rod isn't a problem, and the addition to
the grounding electrode system would be a good thing, just not necessarily
required. If a ground rod is installed for the dish system it will need to
be properly connected or bonded to the existing grounding electrode
system/electrical system ground with a minimum #6 Cu conductor in an
approved manner.

If you call the electrical inspector having jurisdiction for your area they
are usually very helpful, and willing to discuss situations such as this
with you. You've cited NEC Article 820, but that is normally applied to CATV
systems. I would expect that the inspector would look to article 810 if your
installation is serving a single occupancy structure. If the work by the
dish vendor isn't suitable the inspector would also be able to address that.
It might be helpful to review article 810 before calling the inspector.

If this dish is on the roof it is likely one of the higher metallic elements
of the structure, and might present concern as a target for a lighting
strike. You might consider having the installation evaluated by someone
versed in electrical grounding/bonding, and lightning mitigation if your
area has a history of electrical storm activity.

Louis--
*********************************************
Remove the two fish in address to respond
 
D

deanmk

Jan 1, 1970
0
Kilowatt said:
Isn't the key connecting it to the service? They have an insulated 8
stranded draped over the side of the house swinging and then striped and
rapped around the lock hole in the AC disconnect.

They should either drive a ground rod below the dish or run the conductor to
the service panel. Right?
I'm confused, are they runnig 120V out to the dish or just the ground wire?.
Is the discconect for the dish or just somthing convient. Is the dish
metal.? Maybe this wire is a lighting ground (a different issue).
 
K

Kilowatt

Jan 1, 1970
0
Louis Bybee said:
have

There isn't a lot of information given here, but I suspect the "satellite
guys" may not be licensed or even qualified to be engaged in electrical
work. At best I envision them having low voltage qualifications which isn't
a bad thing, but it might be informative to ask what license they possess.

It would be interesting to know if the disconnect they connected the ground
wire to serves the dish, or how they terminated the ground wire its self.

With the limited information supplied it's difficult to armchair the work of
the dish installers, but I doubt a ground rod would be required for this
installation. Installing a ground rod isn't a problem, and the addition to
the grounding electrode system would be a good thing, just not necessarily
required. If a ground rod is installed for the dish system it will need to
be properly connected or bonded to the existing grounding electrode
system/electrical system ground with a minimum #6 Cu conductor in an
approved manner.

If you call the electrical inspector having jurisdiction for your area they
are usually very helpful, and willing to discuss situations such as this
with you. You've cited NEC Article 820, but that is normally applied to CATV
systems. I would expect that the inspector would look to article 810 if your
installation is serving a single occupancy structure. If the work by the
dish vendor isn't suitable the inspector would also be able to address that.
It might be helpful to review article 810 before calling the inspector.

If this dish is on the roof it is likely one of the higher metallic elements
of the structure, and might present concern as a target for a lighting
strike. You might consider having the installation evaluated by someone
versed in electrical grounding/bonding, and lightning mitigation if your
area has a history of electrical storm activity.

Louis--
*********************************************
Remove the two fish in address to respond
What should the installer do to ground the dish properly? My sister had 2
tvs struck by lightning before she found out her dish was not grounded (at
all) properly. She said they came out and drove a ground rod at the dish
and bonded it there. No connection was made to the house. She hasn't been
hit again but the ground rod at the dish is ok?
 
K

Kilowatt

Jan 1, 1970
0
Gerald Newton said:
have
820.40 Cable Grounding.
Where required by 820.33, the shield of the coaxial cable shall be grounded
as specified in 820.40(A) through (D).
(A) Grounding Conductor.
(1) Insulation. The grounding conductor shall be insulated and shall be
listed as suitable for the purpose.
(2) Material. The grounding conductor shall be copper or other
corrosion-resistant conductive material, stranded or solid.
(3) Size. The grounding conductor shall not be smaller than 14 AWG. It shall
have a current-carrying capacity approximately equal to that of the outer
conductor of the coaxial cable. The grounding conductor shall not be
required to exceed 6 AWG.
(4) Length. The grounding conductor shall be as short as practicable. In
one- and two-family dwellings, the grounding conductor shall be as short as
practicable, not to exceed 6.0 m (20 ft) in length.
Exception: In one- and two-family dwellings where it is not practicable to
achieve an overall maximum grounding conductor length of 6.0 m (20 ft), a
separate ground as specified in 250.52(A)(5), (6), or (7) shall be used, the
grounding conductor shall be grounded to the separate ground in accordance
with 250.70, and the separate ground bonded to the power grounding electrode
system in accordance with 820.40(D).
(5) Run in Straight Line. The grounding conductor shall be run to the
grounding electrode in as straight a line as practicable.
(6) Physical Protection. Where subject to physical damage, the grounding
conductor shall be adequately protected. Where the grounding conductor is
run in a metal raceway, both ends of the raceway shall be bonded to the
grounding conductor or the same terminal or electrode to which the grounding
conductor is connected.
(B) Electrode. The grounding conductor shall be connected in accordance with
820.40(B)(1) and (B)(2).
(1) In Buildings or Structures with Grounding Means. To the nearest
accessible location on the following:
(1) The building or structure grounding electrode system as covered in
250.50;
(2) The grounded interior metal water piping system, within 1.52 m (5 ft)
from its point of entrance to the building, as covered in 250.52;
(3) The power service accessible means external to enclosures as covered in
250.94;
(4) The metallic power service raceway;
(5) The service equipment enclosure;
(6) The grounding electrode conductor or the grounding electrode conductor
metal enclosure; or
(7) The grounding conductor or the grounding electrode of a building or
structure disconnecting means that is grounded to an electrode as covered in
250.32.
(2) In Buildings or Structures Without Grounding Means. If the building or
structure served has no grounding means, as described in 820.40(B)(1):
(1) To any one of the individual electrodes described in 250.52(A)(1), (2),
(3), (4); or,
(2) If the building or structure served has no grounding means, as described
in 820.40(B)(1) or (B)(2)(1), to an effectively grounded metal structure or
to any one of the individual electrodes described in 250.52(A)(5), (6), and
(7).
(C) Electrode Connection. Connections to grounding electrodes shall comply
with 250.70.
(D) Bonding of Electrodes. A bonding jumper not smaller than 6 AWG copper or
equivalent shall be connected between the antenna systems grounding
electrode and the power grounding electrode system at the building or
structure served where separate electrodes are used.
Exception: At mobile homes as covered in 820.42.
FPN No. 1: See 250.60 for use of air terminals (lightning rods).
FPN No. 2: Bonding together of all separate electrodes limits potential
differences between them and between their associated wiring systems.
Ok. I saw all that but I am still unsure what the guy should do to attach
the dish ground to my house.

Does this mean that he should run a wire through the attic and open my
service panel and attach there?
Can he go in the basement and bond to any water pipe?
Is the connection he made to my AC disconnect considered connected to be
grounded?

I really don't want lightning to fry my TV.
 
K

Kilowatt

Jan 1, 1970
0
deanmk said:
conductor
I'm confused, are they runnig 120V out to the dish or just the ground wire?.
Is the discconect for the dish or just somthing convient. Is the dish
metal.? Maybe this wire is a lighting ground (a different issue).
The AC is just something convent for a ground, I guess.
They told me that the 3 prong plug is what they are using for the ground.
I told them that because my sister lost 2 tvs to lightning that the 3 prong
plug won't fly.
I really don't know what they should but I know that the 3 prong plug didn't
protect my sister's tv.
 
L

Louis Bybee

Jan 1, 1970
0
Kilowatt said:
work
What should the installer do to ground the dish properly? My sister had 2
tvs struck by lightning before she found out her dish was not grounded (at
all) properly. She said they came out and drove a ground rod at the dish
and bonded it there. No connection was made to the house. She hasn't been
hit again but the ground rod at the dish is ok?


As I indicated in my previous post, I doubt that the dish installers have
the expertise to address the grounding/bonding as evidenced by the manner of
their work so far.

If I were in your shoes I would do the following (as I suggested earlier) in
the following order:

1) Read article 810 of the NEC, and then call your local electrical
inspector asking for an evaluation of the work so far.

2) Contact an electrician, or other qualified electrical professional to
advise/correctly complete the installation.

3) Although the NEC allows the Grounding Wire to be run inside/outside the
structure, I would run it, and the Bonding of Electrode where required, from
the dish outside the structure as straight as possible directly to the
ground. From there direct buried to the service location. It isn't necessary
to enter the service equipment to make the connection, but is one of the
permissible methods. If present I would connect to the Grounding Electrode
Conductor outside the building with an exothermic, or other approved method.
You could drive a ground rod and bond it as well, but I believe the direct
buried conductor would be far more effective than a driven ground rod.
Running the grounding/bonding conductor inside the home before connecting to
the electrical system grounding grid is asking for trouble in an area where
lightning activity is likely.

Louis
 
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