Need assistance with 555 Timer Circuit

gunlocators

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I have some 555 ICs and need to find a schematic for a circuit that will be on for 5 minutes and off for 5 minutes. Actually between 3-5 minutes is fine however the amount of time circuit is on should be very close if not the same as time off.

this will run a relay on and off I have the relay and the 555 probably most if not all the other components however when I google 5 minute circuit I did not find anything using a 555 IC any help is appreciated.
 

Harald Kapp

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Welcome to electronicspoint

Google "555 astable multivibrator", that's the terminus technicus. Note that the 555 in its standard configuration will not allow equal on-times and off-times (duty cycle). There are modifications, however, that allow for almost 50% duty cycle using an additional diode and resistor. These modifications are shown on most 555 related pages.
 

KrisBlueNZ

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The 555 is not very accurate and not designed for periods as long as five minutes. A better idea is to use a CD4060. Here's a circuit with Digi-Key part numbers for all of the components.

271879.001.GIF

LED1 (green) flashes to indicate that the circuit is running. LED2 (yellow) lights when the output is activated. K1 must have a 12V coil rated at 50 mA or less. RV sets the cycle duration; middle position corresponds roughly to five minutes ON and five minutes OFF, but you can adjust it for better accuracy if needed.
 
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KrisBlueNZ

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You won't get very good stability. The problem is leakage current in the electrolytic that's used for timing.

When you need a slow oscillator (or any long delay) using a resistor and a capacitor, the resistor and the capacitor both need to be fairly high values. That means the capacitor pretty much needs to be an electrolytic, and because the resistor is a high value too, the charge/discharge current is pretty low.

Measure_C_with_555-550x287.png

You want 180 seconds ON, 180 seconds OFF, so the cycle time is 360 seconds, so the frequency is 0.0027778 Hz. If you want a square wave, R1 needs to be small, so we can ignore it in the formula. So the formula becomes f = 1.44 / (2 R2 C).
(R2 C) = 0.72 / f
= 259.2 seconds

So the product of R2 (in ohms) and C (in farads) must be about 260. For example, we could use 220 µF and 1.2 MΩ (product is 264).

Electrolytics have leakage current, which effectively subtracts from the charge current. Nichicon make a range of electrolytics called KL which are specifcally designed for low leakage. They have a 220 µF, 16V part which is available from Digi-Key: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/UKL1C221MPD1TD/493-10482-1-ND/4318096

Regarding leakage current specification, the data sheet says: "After 1 minute's (for case size 10 × 12.5 or smaller) or 2 minutes' (for case size 10 × 16 or larger) application of rated voltage, leakage current is not more than 0.002CV or 0.2 µA whichever is greater." The "0.002CV" means 0.002 × capacitance (in farads) × voltage rating, and the result is in amps. This is 0.002 × 0.00022 × 16 which is 7 µA.

A 555 oscillator running from 12V using a 1.2 MΩ resistor charges the capacitor at 3.333 µA at the lowest current point in the cycle. And that capacitor is specified for a maximum leakage curent of 7 µA. So it's possible that the oscillator would simply stop working, because the charge current coming through the 1.2 MΩ resistor is less than the capacitor's leakage current.

It's unlikely that the capacitor will have that much leakage current - that's a conservative worst-case specification - but even if its leakage current is only 1 µA, the oscillator timing will be affected noticeably - the ON time (pin 3 high) will be lengthened, and the OFF time (pin 3 low) will be shortened. And you want the two durations to be as close as possible to each other.

You could reduce the power supply voltage and use an electrolytic with a lower voltage rating, which would reduce the 0.002CV product, but not by a great amount. And you can't get any benefit from using a higher capacitance and lower resistance, or vice versa, because the leakage current specification is proportional to the capacitance and the charge current is inversely proportional to the resistance, so changes to both cancel each other out and you're back where you started.

This is why people say that the 555 is not really suitable for cycle times longer than a few dozen seconds, or a minute at the most. You're welcome to try it for yourself though. If you do, use a modern enhanced 555 with low input leakage current, not an original bipolar one. The ICL7555 or TS555 are both suitable, though they have a lower output drive capability.
 

gunlocators

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Well Here is what I did with 9volts in to the 555 if it does not last then I will go the CD4060 route. I ran the circuit for 2 hours and it seemed to cycle fine for now. Thank you for all the help. I wanted to try this seeing for now I had all the components on hand....

555timer2min_zps55d67f16.jpg
 

KrisBlueNZ

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OK. You should link pin 4 to pin 8, and you must add a decoupling capacitor (0.1 µF ceramic) directly between pins 8 and 1. You should also add a decoupling capacitor (same value) between pin 5 and pin 1. Both of these capacitors should connect to pin 1 as closely and directly as possible to the 555 itself.

You should connect the relay coil between pin 3 and pin 8, not pin 1, because the 555 pulls low more strongly than it pulls high. The way you have it now, you'll lose about 2V in the 555's output stage and the relay coil will only get 10V if you're running the circuit from 12V. This change also fits better with the layout you've drawn.

You also need a diode across the relay coil. A 1N400x (4001~4007) is suitable. Assuming you've moved the relay coil from pin 1 to pin 8, connect the anode to the pin 3 side and the cathode to the pin 8 side. Without this, the 555 will be damaged by inductive kickback from the relay coil.

You could reduce R1 down to, say, 3k3, to make the ON and OFF times slightly more equal.
 

gunlocators

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Kris thank you I will reconfigure this circuit tomorrow. I should have everything I need on hand to do this. I dabble a lot in ham radio and building stuff but mostly in kit form so I am Still Learning all I can building circuits from scratch....
Thank you very much
 

gunlocators

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Kris does this look correct according to the suggested changes. Thank you in Advance
ScreenShot2014-12-20at93232PM_zps17b33d4a.png
 

KrisBlueNZ

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Yes, that looks good. You haven't shown the polarity of C, or the connection from its postive side to pin 2, but apart from that, it looks right.
 
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